{"title":"Polishing — SONAX","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur","title":"XTREME Polish+Wax 3 Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eEliminate fine scratches and dull film and seal paint with SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does this fine polish do? This light combination polish removes fine scratches, dull films, and oxidation—and seals the paint in one step with Hybrid NetProtection Technology for long-lasting protection and true deep gloss.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot every paint defect requires an aggressive abrasive polish. Those who want to refresh already well-maintained paint or remove fine water spots and dull films after winter care don't need a strong abrasive product—but a fine polish that works gently and protects at the same time. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e is exactly that: a light combination polish that removes fine scratches, swirl marks, and oxidation haze from the clear coat and, in a single step, seals it with Hybrid NetProtection Technology. The result is a mirror-like high gloss with depth—without overstressing the paint. As the finest representative of the XTREME Polish+Wax series, it is the logical choice for the final polishing stage in a multi-step workflow or as a stand-alone product for vehicles in good paint condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat does \"fine polishing effect\" concretely mean? Clear coat has a limited thickness—between 30 and 60 micrometers for most vehicles. Every polish removes a bit of it. An aggressive abrasive polish can remove 5–10 micrometers in a single polishing pass, while a fine polish removes less than 1–2 micrometers. This makes a significant difference for the longevity of the paint: with the right polish of the right strength, the clear coat can be regularly maintained for many years without the thickness becoming problematic. This is the true added value of a well-graded polish selection—and the Polish+Wax 3 precisely fills the important niche of gentle, regularly usable fine polish with integrated sealant, which is missing from many vehicle owners' assortments.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLight polishing action for gentle paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Polish+Wax 3 is formulated with fine polishing abrasives that effectively remove superficial scratches and micro-scratches from the clear coat without cutting deeper into the paint than necessary. This makes it a safe choice for delicate paints, older vehicles, or as a final step after a more intensive polishing stage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology – Polish and seal in one.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NPT sealant contained in the product links inorganic and organic protective components to form a weather-resistant network directly on the paint. This saves a separate waxing or sealing step and still provides a measurable water-beading effect and protection against environmental influences.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh deep gloss and color brilliance as the final result.\u003c\/strong\u003e The combination of fine polishing abrasion and final sealing creates a mirror-like paint with true depth. Especially on dark paints, the difference from an untreated or only waxed surface is clearly visible—the paint appears fresh, intense, and three-dimensional.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e It is best to apply Polish+Wax 3 by machine with a soft finishing pad — low to medium speed, low pressure. This ensures the polishing effect is evenly applied without stressing the clear coat. If polishing by hand: work in small sections (30 × 30 cm), using crosshatch movements, applying the product with medium pressure. After flashing off (surface becoming slightly dull), buff off — then the full shine will emerge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — the sealing formula behind Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology (NPT) is the technological core of the entire XTREME Polish+Wax series. Behind the name lies a sealing approach that links organic and inorganic protective components—similar to a chemical network that is built directly on the clear coat. Inorganic components like silicon-based compounds are hard, UV-resistant, and protect against mechanical influences such as dirt and water. Organic components like waxes or polymers are flexible, adhere well to the paint, and provide the typical shine and soft feel. The combination of both systems creates a protective layer that is neither too rigid nor too soft—it adapts to temperature fluctuations, adheres permanently, and encourages water to bead off. For users, this means: one product, two functions. There is no need for separate waxing or sealing after polishing. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e completes both steps in one operation and delivers a result that can compete with a separately applied sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo what makes Polish+Wax 3 different from other one-step products? The key lies in the quality of the polishing abrasives. Cheap combination polishes often rely on coarse abrasive compounds that quickly deliver visible results but also put more stress on the paint. The fine polishing abrasives in Polish+Wax 3 are sized to effectively remove dull films, watermarks, and swirls without penetrating deeper clear coat layers. This protects the material sustainably and allows the product to be used regularly without fear of long-term thinning of the clear coat—a decisive advantage over stronger abrasive polishes in continuous use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother advantage: the product is easy to control. Where aggressive polishes can quickly lead to burn-throughs on edges or raised areas, the fine formulation is forgiving—even for less experienced users, the risk of over-polishing is low. The NPT sealant, which is built up during the polishing process, requires no curing time like ceramic products and no separately applied layer—it is created directly during polishing and is immediately active after buffing. This significantly simplifies the entire care process and makes Polish+Wax 3 a reliable all-rounder for regular paint care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying XTREME Polish+Wax 3 — Step-by-step to a high-gloss result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore polishing, always ensure a thorough wash: remove dirt, road film, and loose particles from the paint—preferably after a two-bucket wash or foam wash, so that no abrasive particles remain on the paint. If you want to achieve the maximum result, perform an iron decontamination step before polishing to remove embedded iron particles. The actual polishing with Polish+Wax 3 then takes place on clean, dry paint. The product can be applied both by machine and by hand: with a polishing machine (dual action or rotary polisher) and a soft finishing pad, consistent results can be achieved on large surfaces; by hand, it is suitable for smaller corrections or for owners without a machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe recommended procedure: Drip a small amount of product onto the pad, spread it at low speed, and then work it in evenly at medium speed. Do not apply the product in direct sunlight or on hot paint—the bonding will occur too quickly, making buffing more difficult. After working it in, allow it to flash off briefly (until the surface becomes slightly dull) and then buff it off with a clean microfiber cloth. The result is immediately visible: a uniformly shiny paint without residues. Polish+Wax 3 is also suitable for beginners in paint care—the light color of the product and its easy dosing make it simple to apply the right amount and avoid over-application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor working on trim strips, mirrors, or tight areas, we recommend a smaller polishing pad or hand application with a folded microfiber cloth. This allows for an even result even in hard-to-reach areas, without getting product on rubber seals or plastic parts. If you plan several passes—for example, on a vehicle that has not been maintained for a long time—you should check the result in the right light (darkroom lamp or daylight) after each pass before applying the next layer. This avoids unnecessary repetitions and saves time and material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of application — when Polish+Wax 3 is the best choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Polish+Wax 3 is ideal for vehicles whose paint is generally in good condition but would benefit from a refresh. Typical situations: after the winter break, when residual dirt and water spots are baked into the clear coat; after a polishing cycle with a stronger polish, as a final fine-tuning step; or after a drive through sand or fine dust that has left fine swirls on the paint. For heavier scratches or deeper oxidation damage—visible grooves, sanding marks, full-surface dullness—it reaches its limits. In this case, a stronger abrasive polish would be the correct first step, followed by Polish+Wax 3 as a finisher.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt works particularly well on dark paint colors such as black, dark blue, or graphite metallic—here, the sensitivity to fine scratches and haze is highest, and at the same time, the visual effect of a successful polish is most impressive. It can be used just as effectively on light paints, but the visible difference before and after is naturally somewhat less pronounced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt is also suitable for vehicles with clear coat sealant or paint protection film, provided the sealant is not already too thick or too hard—in this case, it should be checked before polishing whether the protective layer is still intact. After polishing with Polish+Wax 3, further sealing is optional, as NPT technology already builds up a protective layer. If you still wish to apply an additional sealant, you can immediately apply a compatible sealant or ceramic coating—the degreased and prepared paint surface after polishing offers ideal conditions for this. Regular care with the fine polish in spring and autumn protects the paint from the strongest stress periods of the year—after the road salt winter and before the UV-intensive summer season—and keeps it in a condition that requires hardly any corrective measures in the long term.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolish+Wax 3 in comparison — how it fits into the SONAX XTREME Polish series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Polish+Wax line is sorted by cut level: The \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/a\u003e offers a medium polishing effect—ideal for dull films, but also for lighter scratches and moderate oxidation. The Polish+Wax 3 is the finer variant: it corrects less aggressively, which makes it predestined for the final polishing step or for already well-maintained paints. Both share the Hybrid NPT sealant, but differ in polishing grade. Those who want a clean, soft finish after an intensive correction with Polish+Wax 2 or a professional abrasive polish will complete the workflow with Polish+Wax 3—and have thus completed polishing and sealing in one step. This two-stage approach—first medium correction, then fine finishing and sealing—is a proven workflow in professional paint detailing and can also be achieved with XTREME products without having to switch to the professional machine polishing line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlternatively, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/a\u003e is available as a modern ceramic variant—it combines light polishing abrasion with a ceramic sealant that creates an even harder and more durable protective layer than NPT technology. If you are looking for maximum sealant durability and want to polish and seal with one product, the Ceramic Polish takes you one step further. For regular, simpler refreshment without much effort, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e is an alternative: a light hand wax polish for quick deep gloss between maintenance intervals. The Polish+Wax 3 positions itself between these products—more corrective power than BrilliantWax, more accessibility than ceramic systems. For the systematic detailer who chooses different care products depending on the paint condition, it is the natural first choice for the status \"paint maintained, minor optimizations desired\"—before deciding whether a more intensive correction is really necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePurchase Recommendation — Who benefits from SONAX Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right product for anyone who wants to keep their paintwork in top condition regularly without having to resort to an aggressive abrasive every time. It is particularly suitable for paint care beginners looking for a forgiving product, and for experienced detailers who use it as a finishing step in a staged polishing workflow. The combination of genuine polishing correction and integrated long-term sealant makes it one of the most versatile products in the XTREME range. The 500 ml bottle is sufficient for several complete vehicle treatments, making it a good value for money. Those who attach particular importance to sustainable paint protection and want to think one step further can combine Polish+Wax 3 as a correction step with a final ceramic sealant for maximum long-term effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOur conclusion: If you are looking for a universal paint care product that works quickly, easily, and with visible results—and also seals—the Polish+Wax 3 is an excellent choice. It is not a tool for intensive paint correction of deep damage, but for everything that comes after or is needed in between, it has the right format: friendly and forgiving in application, consistent and even in results, and good value. It is particularly recommended for vehicles with well-maintained, but no longer quite fresh paint—i.e., the broad middle ground of the German vehicle fleet with registration years between three and ten years. In this class, often not much is missing for a top result, and the fine polishing effect of Polish+Wax 3 is sufficient to fully exploit this potential.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160876949839,"sku":"D1-SNX-0202200","price":16.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polish-Wax-3-9.png?v=1721514206"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur","title":"XTREME Polish+Wax 2 Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eEliminate fine scratches and build up lasting deep shine with SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2 do? The combination polish with medium abrasive action removes fine wash scratches and haze while sealing the paint with Hybrid NetProtection Technology – polishing and sealing in one step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA vehicle with slightly worn paint – fine wash scratches, light haze, initial UV-induced dulling – doesn't need an aggressive abrasive polish. What it needs is a product that gently polishes the paint, restores color depth, and simultaneously builds up a protective seal. This is precisely the strength of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e: A combination polish with medium abrasive action that combines fine abrasives and Hybrid NetProtection Technology. The result is a mirror-like deep shine, a remarkable water beading effect, and a durable protective layer built up in one step – without a separate sealing process. For anyone who wants to regularly refresh their paint without hours of preparation, Polish+Wax 2 is the ideal choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePolish and seal in one step – time-saving without compromise.\u003c\/strong\u003e Most polishes require a separate sealing step after polishing. Polish+Wax 2 integrates Hybrid NetProtection Technology directly into the polish compound: While the abrasive particles work out fine scratches, the NPT components simultaneously build up a protective layer. This saves time and ensures that the freshly polished surface is sealed immediately.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMirror-like deep shine with intensive color refreshment.\u003c\/strong\u003e The extremely fine abrasive particles in Polish+Wax 2 are designed for new and regularly maintained paints – they smooth the clear coat surface without unnecessarily removing paint material. The result is an evenly reflective surface with deep color saturation, especially on dark paint colors.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology – a seal that bonds with the paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e NPT technology links inorganic and organic protective components to form a stable network on the paint surface. This network is more weather-resistant than simple wax layers and provides long-term protection against UV radiation, acid rain, and organic deposits such as insect residue and bird droppings.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Protect plastic and rubber parts before polishing with XTREME Plastic Gel Exterior – polish residues in crevices and on rubber seals are difficult to remove and leave white marks. Apply the polish to dry paint, spread it thinly, and immediately work it in with a medium-hard microfiber cloth – do not let it dry. For machine application with a polishing pad set, Polish+Wax 2 provides particularly even results because the machine heat activates the NPT cross-linking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology – how polishing and sealing chemically work in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology is the chemical core of Polish+Wax 2 and explains why the product does more than a simple \"polish with wax content.\" Conventional combination polishes use wax as a sealing component – this works, but wax layers are comparatively short-lived and sensitive to alkaline cleaners and UV radiation. Hybrid NPT technology takes a different approach: It combines inorganic protective components (similar to those used in mineral sealants) with organic polymers to form a hybrid network. This hybrid structure bonds more strongly with the clear coat surface than pure wax and is simultaneously more flexible than purely inorganic sealants, which break more quickly under mechanical stress. The result is a protective layer that combines the advantages of both material categories: the chemical resistance of inorganic compounds and the mechanical flexibility of organic polymers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive particles in Polish+Wax 2 are designed for a medium cut grade – they remove fine scratches of depth class 1 to 2 (wash scratches, brush marks, slight holograms) without penetrating deep into the clear coat. This is an important difference from more aggressive polishes used on heavily weathered or deeply damaged paint: A gentle cut grade protects the clear coat from excessive material removal and extends the paint's lifespan. For new vehicles and regularly maintained paints, the medium polishing effect of Polish+Wax 2 is the right entry into paint care – those who treat their paint twice a year with it will keep it in new condition permanently, without depleting the clear coat layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common misconception: Combination polishes are less effective than separate polishing and sealing steps. This is not generally true. For heavily neglected paints with deep scratches and an oxidized surface, a multi-stage detailing process with aggressive pre-polish, cleaning polish, and separate sealant is advisable. For all other cases – new paints, regular maintenance polishing, seasonal refreshment – a combination polish is the more efficient solution. It saves time, reduces the number of products needed, and delivers completely sufficient results for everyday use. Polish+Wax 2 ideally closes this gap between \"not polishing at all\" and \"professional multi-step detailing.\"\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying Polish+Wax 2 correctly – step-by-step to a deep shine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe application of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e must begin with a thorough vehicle wash. Dirt, grit, and brake dust on the paint would act as abrasives during polishing, creating deep scratches that would be significantly worse than the original condition. After washing, completely dry the vehicle – polishes work much better on dry paint and adhere more evenly. Before polishing, protect plastic and rubber areas with masking tape or XTREME Plastic Gel to prevent polish residues from getting into crevices.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApply the polish to a SONAX application sponge or a polishing ball and spread it on the paint in even, overlapping movements. The correct technique is crucial for the result: linear back-and-forth or slightly cross-hatching paths are better than circular movements, which can create holograms. Apply the polish thinly and evenly – too much product makes wiping more difficult and does not improve the result. Divide the paint into manageable sections: hood, roof, trunk lid, and each side. Immediately wipe off with a medium-hard, clean microfiber cloth after spreading, before the polish dries. Dry polish residues are difficult to remove and can create streaks. For the best result, it is recommended to polish the treated area again with a second, fresh microfiber cloth after wiping – this second wipe removes the last residues and brings out the full high gloss that the NPT sealant makes possible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake in hand application is too much pressure during buffing. Polishes do not require heavy pressure – the chemical action of the abrasive particles is sufficient to smooth fine scratches. Too much pressure generates heat, which breaks down the abrasive particles too quickly and causes the sealing components to cure too early before they have spread evenly on the paint. Light, even pressure with calm, overlapping movements is the recipe for consistent results. When working outdoors, be aware of direct sunlight: If the paint surface is hot (above approx. 30°C), the polish should be applied in the shade or after cooling, as heat significantly shortens the working time and can lead to dry spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolish+Wax 2 is expressly suitable for machine application. An eccentric polisher with a medium-hard polishing pad provides more even results than hand application, as the machine ensures constant pressure distribution and consistent speed. Important: Prime the pad completely with polish before starting so that the first pass does not create a dry friction pattern. After machine application, polish to a high gloss with a fresh microfiber cloth. The water beading effect of the NPT sealant is visible after the first application – at the latest after the first rain, the typical lotus effect will appear on the freshly treated paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication areas – when Polish+Wax 2 is the best choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolish+Wax 2 was developed for a clearly defined range of applications and delivers excellent results there: new vehicles (0–3 years) with fine everyday scratches, regularly maintained vehicles that need a seasonal refresh (spring care after winter, autumn care before the salt season), and paint surfaces with slight UV-induced haze. In this application area, the medium polishing effect is just right: It completely eliminates existing defects and leaves no unnecessary damage to the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLimitations of Polish+Wax 2: For deep scratches, severe oxidation, orange peel, or heavy holograms, a stronger pre-polish is needed. XTREME Polish+Wax 3 has a stronger cut grade and is the right choice for more heavily worn paints – but it also requires more control over the polishing agent, as too much abrasion can damage the clear coat. For entry into active paint care, Polish+Wax 2 is therefore the more recommendable choice, as it is less likely to cause damage with incorrect technique. \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegel\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e is not a polishing-wax product in the true sense, but a polish with wax sealant for very light defects and gentle surface care – it has less cutting power than Polish+Wax 2, but due to its increased wax content, it offers a particularly soft, warm gloss note that is preferred especially on classic cars and rare vehicles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to products from other manufacturers, Polish+Wax 2 is one of the most complete solutions on the market in its price segment because it polishes and seals without compromise in one step. Many entry-level combination polishes sacrifice either polishing performance or sealing performance – Polish+Wax 2 maintains both at a professional level. \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e is the stronger alternative for pronounced defects and can be used as a preliminary step before Polish+Wax 2. The combination of both products – first Polish+Wax 3 for defect removal, then Polish+Wax 2 for fine finishing and final sealing – is a professional two-step workflow that delivers excellent results even on heavily neglected paints.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying recommendation – for whom Polish+Wax 2 is the right choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right choice for anyone who wants to take paint care into their own hands and has a vehicle with slightly to moderately worn paint. It is simple enough for beginners who have no experience with polishes, and precise enough for experienced detailers looking for a quick and reliable maintenance polishing step. The 500 ml container is sufficient for several complete vehicle treatments and offers very good value for money for the quality offered – both the polishing performance and the sealing performance of the Hybrid NPT are at a significantly higher level than comparable combination polishes in the supermarket segment. The noticeable difference becomes apparent at the latest after the first rain: the water beading effect of the NPT sealant is immediately visible even to laypeople and is a reliable sign that the sealant has been applied correctly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor seasonal paint care, we recommend Polish+Wax 2 twice a year – in spring to remove salt residues and winter-related micro-scratches, and in autumn to prepare the paint for the demanding winter season. This regular routine keeps the paint permanently in a condition that prevents most fine defects from occurring in the first place, because the sealant acts as a protective buffer between the paint and environmental influences. Those who maintain this maintenance rhythm and use a quick detailer for short-term refreshment between polishing sessions will have permanently cared for paint without much effort. Regular care is not only aesthetically sensible but also protects the vehicle's value in the long term – well-maintained paint ages significantly slower and protects the body from corrosion risks due to penetrating moisture. At Detailing1, you will find the polish together with the suitable accessories – application sponges, microfiber cloths, and polishing pad sets for machine application – for the complete polishing workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160877343055,"sku":"D1-SNX-02072000","price":16.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polish-Wax-2-0.png?v=1721514375"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung","title":"XTREME BrilliantWax 1 Polish with Wax Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePolishing and Sealing in One Step for Brilliant High Gloss — SONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1 in Practice\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the difference between a polish with wax sealant and a pure polish? A combination of polish and wax sealant lightly abrades the paint, eliminates fine surface blemishes, and simultaneously leaves a protective wax layer — two work steps in one product application.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eVehicle paint loses its original shine over time due to micro-scratches, UV exposure, and oxidation of the clear coat surface. Regular polish care restores this shine — and if a protective layer is built up at the same time, the effort is particularly efficient. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/strong\u003e is a polish with integrated wax sealant in a 500 ml can, which brightens paint surfaces in one step, creates deep gloss, and seals them with a wax layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePolish and Seal in one step for efficient paint care.\u003c\/strong\u003e BrilliantWax 1 combines a mild abrasive action to remove fine dullness with an integrated wax sealant. Those who do not want to perform an additional sealing step after polishing save time without having to forego the protective effect of a wax layer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMild abrasiveness for regular care intervals without excessive paint removal.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasive particle size of BrilliantWax 1 is designed for regular application — not for a one-time correction of deep scratches. For annual or semi-annual care polishes that are intended to maintain the gloss level, this is the right abrasive grade. Too aggressive polishes with regular application would reduce the clear coat thickness in the long run.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApplicable by hand and machine for flexible use.\u003c\/strong\u003e BrilliantWax 1 can be applied both by hand with a sponge or pad and mechanically with an eccentric polishing machine. By hand, the application is direct and uncomplicated; mechanically, a more even distribution can be achieved on larger surfaces, and manual effort is saved when working on the entire vehicle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e BrilliantWax 1 delivers the best results on thoroughly cleaned and decontaminated paint. Apply the product to a slightly moistened foam pad — a dry pad leads to uneven application and increased product consumption. Allow the product to soften briefly before polishing it off: For machine application, an exposure time of 30 seconds is sufficient before the second polishing pass for polishing begins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolish-Wax Technology in BrilliantWax 1 — how abrasive and sealing components work together\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA combi-polish like BrilliantWax 1 contains two functional components: abrasives and wax sealant. The abrasives are fine enough to mechanically remove superficial dullness and micro-scratches in the clear coat without deeply affecting the paint structure. After polishing off, the wax component remains as a thin, protective film on the surface, deepening the gloss and protecting the paint surface from water, dust, and light dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main difference to pure polishes lies in the finishing phase: After a pure polish, the paint is bare and unprotected — a separate sealant must follow before the vehicle is exposed to weather or moisture. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e includes this step in the same product application. This is not a compromise on sealing quality, as long as the frequency of application remains moderate and a high-performance sealant with a long service life is not required.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWax-based sealants have the advantage that they are very easy to apply and polish off, create a warm, natural shine, and harmonize with practically all paints and colors. Synthetic waxes, as used in BrilliantWax 1, combine the classic advantages of natural wax with improved temperature resistance and more uniform layer formation. The result is a surface that shimmers silkily, reliably repels water, and allows dust and light dirt to adhere less — all properties that facilitate the next wash and keep the paint in better condition between care intervals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe wax component in BrilliantWax 1 is designed for short to medium service lives. Depending on exposure, vehicle use, and weather conditions, the protective effect lasts several weeks to a few months — longer for garaged or lightly used vehicles. For vehicle owners who regularly treat their vehicle with BrilliantWax 1 — for example, quarterly — continuous protection is built up, keeping the paint in good condition in the long term.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn important technical point concerns silicone freedom. For workshop vehicles or vehicles that are to be painted afterwards, it is important not to use silicone-containing care products that impair paint adhesion during rework. The user should check the product data sheet if BrilliantWax 1 is used before a planned painting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe optimal application temperature is between 10 and 30 degrees Celsius. Below 10 degrees, the viscosity of the product increases, which makes polishing difficult; above 30 degrees, the wax layer dries too quickly, which can lead to stubborn streaks. Those who polish on hot summer days should place the vehicle in the shade beforehand and ensure a cool surface. Polishing in the garage with closed doors or early in the morning before the heat of the day delivers reproducibly better, more consistent results than working directly in the midday sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication of BrilliantWax 1 — Step-by-Step Workflow for Optimal Results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore polishing, a thorough wash is mandatory: Loose dirt particles on the paint surface act as an abrasive during polishing and create scratches instead of removing them. After washing, an optional clay treatment or iron remover treatment can free the surface from embedded contaminants that would prevent a clean polishing result. This preparation is the difference between a good and an excellent polishing result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEspecially after the winter season, thorough decontamination is recommended: Brake dust, road salt, and tar splashes penetrate deeply into the paint surface and cannot be completely removed by washing alone. An iron remover chemically dissolves metallic deposits, a clay treatment mechanically removes embedded particles. Only on such a prepared surface does BrilliantWax 1 unleash its full polishing effect — the abrasive particles grip evenly without embedded particles that would create scratches, and the wax adheres cleanly to the freshly polished clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApply BrilliantWax 1 in small quantities to a polishing pad or applicator sponge. Work on a limited area — one panel at a time — until the product has dried slightly and can be polished off. The correct amount can be recognized: Too much product leads to difficult polishability and wasted product without additional effect; too little product dries too quickly and can leave wiping residues. As a guide: For a single panel such as a hood or driver's door, about a hazelnut-sized amount on the pad is sufficient. Those who dose sparingly save product and simultaneously achieve better results because the pad distributes the product more evenly over the surface without oversaturating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen polishing, check the paint against the light: A uniform, streak-free surface without product residues is the goal. Turn cloths regularly to use a fresh cloth surface for polishing. Microfiber cloths with a medium pile structure are best suited for polishing off polish and wax products, as they absorb residues well without leaving scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor machine application, an eccentric polishing machine with 8 to 15 mm stroke is recommended. For the polishing phase, a foam pad with medium hardness is suitable; for polishing off, switch to a soft finishing pad or a microfiber pad. The speed should be moderate during application — too high speeds generate heat that causes the wax to burn before polishing. When polishing off, the speed can be increased slightly to remove the last residues and finalize the shine. Larger vehicles can be worked on efficiently panel by panel, without the areas worked on first drying too much in the meantime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of Use and Limitations — For Which Paint Conditions BrilliantWax 1 is Suitable\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBrilliantWax 1 is designed for paints with light maintenance needs: Fine micro-scratches from normal driving, slight oxidation, or a loss of gloss due to weathering can be effectively removed by the product. For deep scratches that reach into the base coat, or for heavily oxidized paints with pronounced hazing, the abrasive power of BrilliantWax 1 is not sufficient — here, heavier polishes from the PROFILINE range or special abrasive polishes are necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule of thumb for assessing whether BrilliantWax 1 is sufficient: If the nail glides over a scratch and does not get caught, the scratch is only in the clear coat — these are precisely the scratches that a mild care polish like BrilliantWax 1 can remove. If the nail gets caught, the scratch goes deeper, and a stronger abrasive polish or even an additional paint treatment would be necessary. This simple test saves time and avoids unnecessary paint removal by overly aggressive products for scratches that cannot be removed with a mild polish anyway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor new vehicles or freshly prepared paints, BrilliantWax 1 is the ideal maintenance polish: regularly used, it keeps the paint's high gloss at a high level and prevents the formation of deeper oxidation layers that would later have to be corrected with more aggressive means. The principle of prevention — regular gentle care instead of infrequent intensive correction — preserves the clear coat thickness in the long term.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who wants to keep their vehicle paint in top condition permanently benefits from a clearly defined care calendar: Spring and autumn are the classic times for a polishing treatment with BrilliantWax 1. In spring, the residues of the winter season — salt, fine dust, initial pollen deposits — are removed, and the paint is protected for the UV-intensive summer period. In autumn, the surface is prepared for the demanding winter season, when road salt and cold put a particular strain on the paint surface. If a light refresher polish is also planned in summer, a continuous protection cycle is maintained, preserving the original shine of the vehicle for many years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn dark and black paints, polish residues and streaks are particularly visible. When polishing a dark paint with BrilliantWax 1, special care should be taken during polishing, and ideally, work in good lighting conditions or with a detailing lamp. The final check against the light shows whether all product residues have been completely removed and the surface shines evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePlastic trim, rubber seals, and black plastic strips around doors and windows easily absorb wax products and leave a whitish film that stubbornly settles into the pores. It is advisable to tape off these areas or wipe them immediately after treatment with a clean, dry cloth before the wax penetrates. BrilliantWax 1 must not be used on matte paints or foils, as the abrasives would lighten the matte finish and permanently change the appearance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBrilliantWax 1 in Comparison — When This Product is the Right Choice and When Not\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX XTREME range, BrilliantWax 1 is positioned as a care polish with a mild abrasive grade and integrated wax sealant — the number 1 in this polishing series stands for the lowest abrasive grade and the finest finishing result. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/a\u003e offers stronger abrasive power for more worn or dull paints; the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e is the most aggressive variant for deeper scratches and heavy oxidation. BrilliantWax 1 is the finishing product in this series — it abrades the least and leaves the most intense shine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an alternative with a different protection approach, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/a\u003e offers ceramic sealing instead of wax sealing. Ceramic lasts longer and offers more protection against chemical influences; BrilliantWax 1 is easier to apply and more affordable. Those seeking maximum protective effect with a 2-in-1 product should choose Ceramic Polish; those who prefer regular, uncomplicated care are better served with BrilliantWax 1.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicle owners who have never worked with combi-polishes, BrilliantWax 1 is an ideal introduction: The tolerance for errors in application and timing is high, polishability is easy, and the result is reproducibly good even for beginners. If, after the first successful application, the result is satisfactory and more protective effect or durability is desired, the next step can be to switch to Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" or a separate ceramic sealant over the prepared surface. BrilliantWax 1 is therefore not only an end product but also a useful entry point into a more structured detailing routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying Guide — For Whom XTREME BrilliantWax 1 is the Best Choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal care product for vehicle owners who want to polish and seal their paint at regular intervals — without buying and applying two separate products. For annual or semi-annual paint care polishing on newer vehicles without deeper scratches, it is the most efficient product from the SONAX XTREME line. The price in the 500 ml container is designed so that the product is also economically attractive for private users: A 500 ml can is sufficient for several complete vehicle treatments, so the cost per application remains low. As a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 has BrilliantWax 1 in its range and is happy to advise on the right products for the respective paint condition.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49345341456719,"sku":"D1-SNX-201200","price":16.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-wachsversiegelung_500ml.png?v=1721579274"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur","title":"XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePaint Correction and Ceramic Protection in One Step — with SONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can an all-in-one polish with ceramic technology do? It corrects minor paint defects like swirls and holograms while leaving behind a hydrophobic Si-Carbon protective layer — without a separate sealing step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who details vehicles knows the effort involved in a classic three-phase workflow: polishing for correction, finishing for gloss, sealing for protection. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e combines these steps: It corrects minor to medium paint defects, creates a high level of gloss after buffing, and leaves a Si-Carbon-based protective layer with hydrostatic effect. The result is a compact workflow, which is particularly the right choice for regular vehicle care and vehicles in good to normal used condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree effects in one step: Correction, gloss, protection.\u003c\/strong\u003e The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" contains abrasive particles for paint correction and Si-Carbon compounds for ceramic protection. During polishing, swirls and fine scratches are removed; when buffing off the residue, the formula leaves a protective layer that repels water and protects the paint surface from new contamination.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCompatible with manual and machine application.\u003c\/strong\u003e The product can be applied both by hand with an applicator sponge and with a DA orbital machine. For experienced users with a DA orbital polisher, the result is more even and efficient; for occasional users without a machine, manual application offers an accessible alternative.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSi-Carbon technology for a lasting hydrophobic effect.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Si-Carbon compounds in the formula are the same technology that SONAX uses in its XTREME Ceramic product range. After drying, they form a thin, even protective layer on the clear coat that repels water and light contamination, keeping the vehicle cleaner for longer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Work the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" with a medium-soft to soft pad on a DA orbital machine. Since the product contains both abrasive particles and ceramic binders, too high a machine speed is counterproductive — the ceramic particles can deposit uncontrollably if overheated. Recommended speed: 3,500–4,500 RPM. Let the product dry briefly after polishing (finger test method: a slightly hazy veil that feels dry) before buffing it off with a clean microfiber cloth — then the protective layer will show its full effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon Technology in All-in-One Polish — How Correction and Protection Work Simultaneously\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTraditional wax polishes had not fully solved the challenge of combining abrasive particles and protective waxes in one formula — either the correction performance or the protective effect suffered. Modern all-in-one products with ceramic technology rely on graded particle sizes and new binders that enable a sequential effect: First, the abrasive particles correct, then the ceramic binders deposit a protective layer during the drying process. This phase separation in the formula is the key difference from older AIO products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic principle of an all-in-one polish is the combination of two inherently opposing requirements: abrasive particles for removal and protective agents for sealing. The technological balance between both components determines how well an AIO product performs in practice. Too many abrasive particles interfere with protective layer formation; too many protective agents reduce cutting power and correction performance. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a precisely matched proportion of particles for light to medium paint corrections, combined with Si-Carbon compounds that deposit as a thin protective layer on the clear coat during the drying process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSi-Carbon technology is the umbrella term for organic-silicon-based compounds that provide a similar protective effect to pure ceramic coatings but are easier to apply. They exhibit hydrophobic properties — water beads off instead of sheeting — and form a barrier against light contamination such as road dust, bird droppings, and insect residues, making them easier to remove during the next wash. The durability of such an Si-Carbon layer from an AIO product, depending on care intensity and environmental exposure, is several months — less durable than a dedicated ceramic coating, but a significant gain in protection compared to a pure polish without any sealing component.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive particles in Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" are calibrated to remove swirls, fine holograms, and light-reflecting micro-scratches on normal clear coat surfaces without affecting deeper layers of the clear coat. It is not an aggressive cutting product — for deep scratches, oxidation, or severely damaged paint, a dedicated correction product is necessary. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the tool for so-called \"maintenance correction\" — the regular light refresh that keeps a vehicle in good paint condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" — Step-by-Step by Hand and Machine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore an all-in-one polish can unleash its full potential, the paint surface must be in a clean initial state. Many users skip the decontamination phase and find that the polishing result is uneven or the expected correction performance is lacking. Iron particles, tar spots, and bonded contamination form a layer on the paint that stresses the pad and clogs the abrasive particles in the product. A thorough decontamination step is the prerequisite for a good AIO result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe paint surface should be thoroughly washed, decontaminated, and dry before application. Dirt, rust film, or embedded particles on the surface would act like abrasives and cause uncontrolled removal. Pre-treatment with an iron remover and possibly a clay bar product brings the surface to its optimal initial state. Application can begin on a dry, clean surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor hand application: Apply a small amount of product to a soft applicator sponge — a pea-sized amount is sufficient for an A4-sized area. Work in circular motions with medium pressure until the product is evenly distributed. For machine application with a DA orbital polisher: Distribute product on the pad, spread it over the area at a low speed, then increase the speed to 3,500–4,500 RPM and work in overlapping passes. Two to three passes allow the cutting action to work; then reduce the speed and do a final distribution pass. Let the product dry briefly on the panel (finger test method), then wipe off with a clean, soft microfiber cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter a complete panel pass — distribute, polish, let dry briefly, wipe off — it is advisable to inspect the surface with a detailing light or in direct sunlight. Remaining areas with holograms or product residues can be re-worked immediately. Early detection of imperfections is particularly important with an AIO product because the dried protective agent is more difficult to correct after final curing (24–48 hours).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn important note on quantity: All-in-one products with a protective crystal component tend to leave a streaky pattern if too much product is applied, which is difficult to wipe off completely. Less product and several thin layers achieve a better result than a single thick application. If resistance is still felt when wiping, the product has not fully dried — wait briefly, then polish again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAll-in-One Results in Practice — Gloss, Protection, and Limitations\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter applying XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\", a dark paint color clearly shows the effect: Swirls and holograms are visibly reduced or gone, and the paint reflects more evenly and deeply. At the same time, a significant increase in hydrophobicity is noticeable — water beads off in small spheres, and rainwater runs off the slope of the roof without sheeting. This water beading effect is an immediate, visually measurable indicator of the Si-Carbon layer's effectiveness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA frequently asked question concerns its use on dark vs. light paint colors. XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is suitable for all paint colors, but the correction effect is most visible on dark colors (black, dark blue, dark grey) because swirls and holograms reflect more strongly on these surfaces. On light colors like white or silver, the protective effect is just as present, but the optical improvement after polishing is less dramatic. This does not mean that light vehicles do not benefit — the protective effect and improved gloss level are measurable on all colors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe product's limitations are clearly in the degree of paint damage: XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is not a deep correction product. Scratches that can be felt with a fingernail, deep holograms after rotary polishing, or pronounced oxidation damage exceed the capacity of an AIO product. Here, a two-phase workflow of correction (with a cutting product) and protection (with a dedicated sealant or the ceramic polish as a second step) is the correct approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application temperature influences the formation of the protective layer. Working in a garage or in the shade at temperatures between 15 and 25 °C is ideal. In direct sunlight, the product dries too quickly before the Si-Carbon compounds can deposit evenly — the result is streaking. If you don't have a garage, you should place the vehicle in the shade for at least 30 minutes before application and wait until the surface has cooled down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe durability of the protective layer from Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" depends on vehicle use, care frequency, and environmental exposure. Under normal conditions — regular hand washing, occasional rain, no aggressive cleaning with alkaline shampoos — the layer typically lasts three to six months. If you want longer durability and stronger protection, you can apply a layer of SONAX Ceramic Sealant after XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" — the AIO provides correction, and the sealant provides lasting protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eComparison with other polishes — when All-in-One is enough and when it is not\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a direct comparison with specialized polishes like \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP \"03-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e, the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the more accessible product: The NP \"03-06\" is a pure finish polish without protective agents, which produces maximum gloss on professional orbital or rotary machines — but leaves no sealant. The Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is weaker in correction performance but delivers a complete result in one step. For professional detailing, where correction, finishing, and sealing are performed separately, the NP \"03-06\" is the stronger choice. For regular vehicle care and maintenance polishing, the AIO is the more efficient solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" differs by its modern ceramic protection component instead of a classic wax component. Wax-based polishes provide a warm paint gloss with good water repellency but are more temperature-sensitive and less chemical-resistant than Si-Carbon protective layers. If you prefer contemporary ceramic protection instead of a Carnauba finish, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the right choice. If you appreciate a deep, warm Carnauba gloss, choose the Polish+Wax range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you regularly wash your vehicle with a coating-compatible shampoo — such as SONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo — you significantly extend the life of the Si-Carbon protective layer. Alkaline cleaners or aggressive wheel cleaners that get on the paint can prematurely break down the hydrophobicity of the protective layer. The product combination of Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" and Ceramic ActiveShampoo is a coordinated care cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn important difference from classic one-step polishes without protective agents lies in the cleaning behavior after application. On vehicles with ceramic or Si-Carbon protection, dirt adheres less and is easier to remove during the next wash. This reduces washing pressure and friction on the paint, which indirectly reduces the occurrence of swirls for the next polishing step. The Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" thus creates a positive spiral: correction plus protection, fewer new scratches, less effort for the next use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor users who already have a dedicated ceramic coating on their vehicle, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" can be used as a refreshing polish during the protective layer's lifespan. The abrasive particles are mild enough not to completely remove the sealing layer, while the Si-Carbon components can regenerate the hydrophobicity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor whom the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the right choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal product for vehicle owners who want to keep a good used vehicle in top condition regularly, without going through a multi-stage detailing workflow. Anyone who polishes twice a year benefits from a product that reduces swirls, increases gloss, and builds a protective layer in one step. For professional detailers, the AIO offers a practical application for vehicle intake: Slightly damaged new vehicles or used cars in good condition can be prepared quickly with the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" before a ceramic coating is applied as a protective layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe positioning is also evident in the comparison with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish\u003c\/a\u003e: Cut+Finish is the professional version with more cutting power, higher concentration, and PROFILINE quality standards — for businesses that work on many vehicles with different paint conditions daily. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is designed for the demanding private user and occasional professional use who seeks a complete result in one step. As a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 permanently carries the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" in its assortment and recommends it as an entry point into the Ceramic care range. If you are unsure whether the AIO is sufficient for your own vehicle or whether a two-step workflow with separate correction and sealing is necessary, you can get advice from Detailing1 — based on the paint condition and desired protection duration, the right product combination can always be found. A practical starting point is the fingernail test: If the nail slides over a scratch without getting caught, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" can correct it. If the nail catches, a dedicated cutting product is needed. This simple decision rule helps to choose the right product for the respective vehicle, without extensive light inspection. Regular care with the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" every two to four months keeps a well-maintained vehicle permanently in a condition that comes close to professional detailing — with minimal time expenditure and a product that does not require a separate sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49345418592591,"sku":"D1-SNX-247200","price":17.48,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur_500ml.png?v=1721579808"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur","title":"PROFILINE MetalPolish Metal Polish (Medium-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBring tarnished metal surfaces to a high shine — with SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish do? The metal polish with medium abrasive power removes tarnish, oxidation, light rust, and dullness from aluminum, brass, chrome, and stainless steel — bringing metal surfaces to a mirror-like high shine.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolished metal surfaces lose their luster over time — oxygen, moisture, UV light, and environmental acids leave tarnish, oxidation layers, and a characteristic dullness that simple cleaning cannot remove. This is where \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in: a high-gloss polish with a medium abrasive grade that, based on high-quality abrasive minerals, gently removes tarnish and oxidation layers, revealing a highly mirror-polished surface beneath. The formula is suitable for all common metals — aluminum, brass, chrome, stainless steel — and works without aggressive acids or alkalis that can cause corrosion damage on sensitive metal surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium abrasive power for a wide range of applications.\u003c\/strong\u003e The medium cut allows for quick polishing even on heavily tarnished or dull metal surfaces, without excessive material removal or damaging more sensitive surfaces. For most applications — exhaust tips, aluminum wheel well polishing frames, chrome attachments, stainless steel cladding — the medium abrasive power is the right starting point, delivering visible results without unnecessarily removing material.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUse on all common metal surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Aluminum, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper — the polish works on all these materials without specific compatibility issues. It has proven particularly effective on motorcycle parts, exhaust systems, wheels, boat fittings, and kitchen objects made of polished metal, where both cleaning action and high-gloss results are desired.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-gloss finish directly from the tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e After polishing, a mirror-like high-gloss finish is created that requires no separate post-treatment. This saves a step compared to two-stage systems, where coarse and then pure finisher work is required — with PROFILINE MetalPolish, the abrasive and polishing phases are combined in one step.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1 Pro Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e For optimal results, thoroughly clean and dry the metal surface before polishing — dirt particles on the surface cause deeper scratches during polishing than the abrasive in the polish itself. Apply the MetalPolish to a clean, soft cotton cloth or polishing pad and work in circular, overlapping motions in small areas. Do not apply too thinly — the paste should remain visibly on the surface until it hardens and becomes slightly cloudy. Then polish with a clean cloth and check the result. A second pass may be necessary for heavily tarnished areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish with medium abrasive power — how the medium cut works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe action of a metal polish is based on controlled micro-abrasive processes: fine abrasive grains in the polishing paste remove the uppermost layer of oxidation, tarnish, and micro-scratches, while simultaneously smoothing the underlying metal surface. The finer the grit, the higher the achievable shine, but the longer the working time for heavily damaged surfaces. The medium abrasive power of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is a conscious compromise: strong enough to remove even significant tarnish and medium oxidation layers in one step, fine enough to produce a high-gloss finish directly, without the need for a separate finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive minerals in the formula are selected to work gently on metal surfaces and not cause excessive material removal. This is particularly important for thinly plated chrome or coated aluminum: overly aggressive abrasives can penetrate protective layers and expose the underlying base material, accelerating corrosion. The medium abrasion of MetalPolish keeps this risk at a controlled level and is matched to the typical thickness of chrome and aluminum coatings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA conceptual difference to paint polishes such as \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e is important: paint polishes are formulated for organic polymer layers (clear coat), while metal polishes are for inorganic metal surfaces. The abrasive grains are chosen differently, and the carrier paste is adapted to the specific adhesion and heat conduction of metal. These products are not interchangeable — a paint polish on metal will not produce optimal results, and a metal polish on clear coat can cause scratches depending on the abrasive hardness. Therefore, use MetalPolish exclusively on bare, non-painted metal surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing — when the applied product has become cloudy and has been polished off with a cloth — MetalPolish leaves no bothersome oil film or residue. The metal remains fresh, shiny, and grippy after polishing. Optional post-sealing with a metal protection product or wax film can extend the re-tarnish period and is particularly recommended for chrome attachments in outdoor areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying metal polish correctly — step-by-step for maximum shine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe application of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e works both by hand and with a rotating machine. By hand: Apply a hazelnut-sized amount of polish to a clean cotton cloth, a polishing cloth, or a soft polishing block. Spread over the metal surface with circular or linear movements — not too fast, but with even pressure in small sections of approx. 20×20 cm. Allow the polish to dry slightly and appear milky-cloudy (typically 30–60 seconds at room temperature), then polish with a clean, dry cotton cloth. The result is immediately visible: the cloudy residues contain the dissolved oxide and removed dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith a machine (rotary or orbital polisher): Choose a suitable pad depending on the machine — a medium-hard polishing pad or a cotton polishing pad is recommended for MetalPolish. Select a low speed (rotary: approx. 1000–1500 rpm, orbital: level 3–4), move evenly over the surface. Machine polishing on metal saves considerable time and produces more even results than hand polishing due to the mechanical pressure, but requires a little more practice to avoid overheating on edges and corners. After machine polishing, polish off as with hand application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA second pass may be necessary on heavily tarnished or deeply oxidized surfaces. Important: After each pass, check with a clean cloth whether the desired result has been achieved before applying further polishing passes — excessive polishing unnecessarily removes material without further improving the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish application areas — where MetalPolish works best\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMetalPolish shows its strength wherever polished metal surfaces have become dull and unsightly due to environmental influences. In the automotive sector: chrome attachments, aluminum wheel rims, stainless steel sills, exhaust tips and systems (always apply to cold parts!), motorcycle exhaust manifolds, aluminum engine covers, and motorsport applications made of polished aluminum or titanium. The results are particularly noticeable on exhaust systems that develop typical tarnish colors due to heat — blue, golden brown, purple. These can often be completely or largely removed with a metal polish, restoring the exhaust to its original metal finish. For titanium components (racing, high-performance exhaust), the tarnish colors are often considered an aesthetic feature — here, before polishing, it should be considered whether the original finish is actually desired or whether the tarnish colors should deliberately be preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it comes to aluminum wheels, an important distinction must be made: bare, uncoated aluminum wheels (rare, but common in vintage car and motorsport sectors) can be treated directly with metal polish. Standard new and used car wheels, however, are covered with a clear coat or anodized — these should not be treated with metal polish, as the abrasion attacks the clear coat. The correct approach for painted wheels is a paint polish, not a metal polish. If in doubt: Test a tiny area in an inconspicuous spot before treating the entire rim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOutside the automotive sector, MetalPolish is equally powerful: boat fittings and propellers made of brass or stainless steel, stainless steel railings and handrails, polished brass fittings, historical objects made of silver or bronze, kitchen objects made of polished stainless steel. The polish has limitations on painted or anodized metal surfaces — these protective layers should not be mechanically polished. Anodized aluminum wheels or powder-coated components are therefore not suitable application areas for metal polish, regardless of the product used.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish comparison — PROFILINE MetalPolish vs. XTREME MetalPolish and alternatives\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX range includes two metal polishes: the PROFILINE version and \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-metalpolish-metallpolitur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME MetalPolish\u003c\/a\u003e. Both remove tarnish and oxidation on metal surfaces, but differ in package size and positioning. XTREME MetalPolish (150 ml tube) is aimed at hobby detailers and occasional users who prefer a handy package size for smaller jobs and individual applications. PROFILINE MetalPolish (250 ml) is designed for regular users and businesses who polish more frequently and want to keep a slightly larger quantity in stock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of content, both products use comparable abrasive minerals for the medium cut — the main difference lies less in the mode of action than in product size and positioning: PROFILINE is the professional line for regular use, XTREME is the consumer pack for home use. Those who work in a business or regularly detail motorcycles, vehicles, or boats will opt for PROFILINE; those who occasionally polish the wheels or exhaust of their vehicle are equally well advised with XTREME MetalPolish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor special applications, it is worth looking at other products in the SONAX PROFILINE range: \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/a\u003e specializes in glass surfaces — scratches and water spots on windshields or rear windows — and works with cerium oxide abrasive technology on a different material class than MetalPolish. Those who are putting together a comprehensive vehicle detailing kit that covers both paint and metal work will find the right special polish for every material in the SONAX PROFILINE range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish — Recommendation and Target Group\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the choice for anyone who regularly polishes metal surfaces and wants to use a reliable, proven professional product. The 250 ml tube is sufficient for many applications — a single exhaust system, a complete motorcycle, several chrome attachments — and offers maximum flexibility thanks to its medium abrasive power: from occasional exhaust refresh to systematic detailing of an entire vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn addition to the polish, a set of high-quality cotton cloths or polishing applicators is recommended for even results when polishing by hand. Important: Do not use microfiber cloths for polishing on brightly polished metal surfaces — microfiber loops can leave fine scratches on high-gloss metal that do not occur with cotton cloths. For machine polishing, cotton polishing pads or medium-soft foam polishing pads are suitable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want a long-lasting protective layer after polishing that significantly delays re-tarnishing, you should plan a metal sealing step after using MetalPolish: a thin wax film, a metal protection oil, or in some cases a ceramic sealant can extend the durability of the polished condition from a few weeks to several months, especially on exterior attachments exposed to weather. This is particularly worthwhile for elaborately prepared exhaust systems or motorcycle chrome parts where the result should last as long as possible. For hobby detailers who occasionally polish individual metal parts, the PROFILINE MetalPolish in the 250 ml tube is sufficient for many years — the tube is economical and the product has unlimited shelf life with correct storage (cool, dry, sealed).\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53502874386767,"sku":"D1-SNX-02041410","price":17.28,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187526479,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_2","price":34.56,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187559247,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_3","price":51.84,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur.png?v=1730405721"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish","title":"PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" High Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFlawless High Gloss as the Final Polishing Step — SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 do? This fine high-gloss finishing polish removes the finest holograms and polishing marks, creates a mirror-like clear coat shine, and optimally prepares the paint for sealants and ceramic coatings — ideal as the final polishing step after abrasive preparation stages.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the multi-stage polishing process, the finishing polish is the supreme discipline: it follows the cutting polish and the medium-fine corrective polish and has the task of completely removing any remaining fine holograms, polishing marks, and micro-scratches — all while bringing the clear coat to a state that impresses with deep gloss, clarity, and reflectivity. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the professional high-gloss finishing polish for precisely this final step: very finely abrasive, low-slurring, and with a high-gloss effect that optimally prepares the paint for sealants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFinest Abrasion for Hologram-Free High Gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 contains very finely ground abrasive particles that smooth out polishing marks left by coarse and medium polishes, without creating new scratches. The result is a paint surface with maximum reflectivity and minimal orange peel effect — the basis for the mirror-like deep gloss that a freshly prepared vehicle should exude.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBalanced Viscosity for Machine and Hand Application.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 polish formula is designed to be used with both rotary and orbital polishing machines, as well as by hand on small areas. Its viscosity allows for even distribution on the pad, prevents splattering during machine work, and does not dry too quickly — which is particularly important for larger areas to maintain consistent working time.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIdeal as a Pre-Coating Step Before Sealants.\u003c\/strong\u003e A finishing polish before sealing is not optional if maximum sealant durability and optimal gloss effect are the goal. The NP 03-06 leaves no protective film or protective wax components — after finishing, the clear coat is ready for the subsequent degreasing step and sealing, without abrasive residues affecting coating adhesion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1 Pro Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 delivers the best results with a finishing foam pad on an orbital polisher — speed 3–4 (depending on the machine model), slow, overlapping movements. For the final pass, reduce the speed to 2–3 to minimize heat buildup and achieve a more even result. Apply the polish product sparingly: a small amount on the pad, spread it by rubbing slowly by hand, then turn on the machine. After polishing, buff the area with a clean microfiber cloth and immediately check for holograms — residual polishing marks are most visible under flat (side) light. After checking, apply \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e as a degreasing step before sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive Technology: How NP 03-06 High-Gloss Finishing Polish Removes Holograms\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe operating principle of a finishing polish is based on mechanical micro-abrasion: the finely ground abrasive particles of the high-gloss polish abrade the clear coat surface at a micrometer level, smoothing out grooves and scratches created by previous polishing stages and creating a surface that is as flat and homogeneous as possible. Light hitting a flat surface is reflected evenly — this is the physical explanation for the so-called deep gloss and mirror reflection visible after a successful finishing polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive grade of NP 03-06 is chosen to be optimal for the final polishing stage: fine enough not to create new holograms, but still strong enough to completely eliminate polishing marks from the previous medium corrective polish. This balancing act is typical for finishing polishes — too fine an abrasion does not completely remove polishing marks, while too coarse an abrasion creates holograms that then need to be fixed with another finishing pass. The NP 03-06 is characterized in the product name with \"03-06\", which describes its abrasive position in the SONAX polishing product hierarchy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother advantage of finishing polish technology is the \"darkening\" effect — on dark paints (black, dark blue, dark gray), a significantly more intense color depth becomes visible after finishing, as the paint surface is so flat and clear that more light penetrates the paint and is reflected there. This effect is less dramatic on light paints but still noticeable: the paint appears fresher, more vibrant, and more even than before. Especially on vehicles with black or dark paint, the finishing polish is the most visible step in the entire detailing process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying NP 03-06 Correctly — Pad, Machine, and Technique for Optimal Results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the finishing polish requires a completely executed pre-treatment: dirt, rust film, and tar must be removed (decon step), the paint must be prepared by a corrective polish, and the surface must be clean and dry. A finishing polish on an unprepared, heavily scratched surface cannot completely eliminate fine scratches — this step is only worthwhile if the preceding stages have been carried out correctly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad selection: For machine application, finishing foam pads (soft, non-abrasive) are suitable as they evenly transfer the fine abrasive particles of the polish to the surface without contributing to abrasion themselves. Hard foam pads or microfiber pads with their own abrasive effect are not ideal for a pure finishing polish — the NP 03-06 is designed for soft finishing pads. For hand application, use a soft, clean applicator cloth — on small areas (headlights, small dent areas), the polish also works well by hand; for large areas, machine application is essential for even results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique: Apply polish, distribute at the lowest speed, and then run several overlapping passes over the area at medium speed. The final pass is done with slightly reduced speed and light pressure — this final pass levels out the faint cross-marks created by the polishing work. Check the drying time: if the polish dries too quickly (in the sun, on hot paint), it will not work optimally — ideally, polish in the garage or shade. After buffing with a microfiber cloth, immediately check for holograms — any remaining polishing marks are best seen in artificial side light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of Application for NP 03-06 — When Finishing Polish Is the Right Step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe NP 03-06 is the final polishing step before any sealant or ceramic coating. It is used when fine polishing marks or holograms are still present after corrective polishing and need to be removed before sealing. Typically, the NP 03-06 is step 3 or 4 in a multi-stage polishing process: after a cutting polish (hard pad + coarse polish) and a corrective polish (medium-hard pad + medium polish), the finishing polish follows as the last abrasive step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicles that do not require extensive paint correction (new paint or paint with very fine swirl marks only visible in oblique light), the NP 03-06 can also be used as the sole polishing stage — a so-called \"one-step finish.\" In this case, a lightly abrasive pad (combination pad) is combined with the finishing polish to both reduce light swirl marks and achieve maximum gloss in one step. This approach saves time but is not sufficient for deeper scratches and stronger holograms — a multi-stage process with appropriate corrective polish is unavoidable here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn sensitive vehicles with a thin clear coat layer (often found on older vehicles after multiple previous owner polishes or on certain manufacturers like Porsche and some BMW models), the finishing polish is particularly valuable because it uses minimal paint removal — the mild abrasion specifically removes polishing marks without unnecessarily thinning the clear coat. Paint thickness measurements before preparation help to estimate how many polishing passes are still sensible without polishing the paint too thin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eNP 03-06 vs. PerfectFinish — Which Finishing Polish for Which Task?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range, there are two finishing polishes for different requirements. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\"\u003c\/a\u003e is positioned as a more aggressive finishing polish with a slightly higher abrasive grade — it is particularly designed for use after P2000 sandpaper (hence the \"up to P2000\" suffix) and is suitable for situations where a bit more abrasion is needed after sanding to completely remove sanding marks. The NP 03-06, on the other hand, is the finer finishing polish for the final step after the corrective polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePractically speaking: anyone polishing after wet sanding (e.g., after removing a deep dent or a repaint) would choose PerfectFinish as the first polishing step and optionally NP 03-06 for final hologram removal. Anyone who has worked with a corrective polish after normal detailing without sanding only needs the NP 03-06 for the finishing step. For detailers who want to cover both scenarios in practice, combining both polishes makes sense — PerfectFinish for abrasive-intensive detailing, NP 03-06 for pure high-gloss finishing steps after polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRegarding pad compatibility and machine suitability, both finishing polishes are similar — the decision mainly lies in the desired abrasive grade and the preceding preparation stage. For maximum flexibility in professional operations, we recommend having both polishes available, as the exact condition of a customer's vehicle can often only be fully assessed on the lift and under inspection lights.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 — Container Sizes and Cost-Effectiveness\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is available in three container sizes: 250 ml for beginners and occasional users, 1 liter for regular detailers and professional detailing businesses, and 5 liters for businesses with high throughput or for workshops and training. The price per milliliter significantly decreases with larger containers — for businesses that polish several vehicles weekly, the 1-liter or 5-liter container is the most economical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePer application on an average vehicle (sedan or compact car), approximately 15–30 ml of polish are needed, depending on the number of polishing passes and pad size. The 1-liter container is therefore sufficient for 30–60 complete vehicle polishes — an excellent price-performance ratio for regular users. The 250 ml container is suitable for beginners who want to get acquainted with the polish first, or for special applications on small areas (hood, roof, individual panels after a spot repair).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complete finishing workflow, we recommend: NP 03-06 (high-gloss finishing polish) → \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e (degreaser\/panel wipe) → \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or ceramic coating. This three-stage finishing workflow ensures that the paint, after preparation, has maximum gloss, is completely degreased, and is permanently protected by a high-quality sealant — the standard for professional detailing results.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506699362639,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410","price":13.51,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506660401487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000","price":33.93,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506660499791,"sku":"D1-SNX-2085000","price":84.12,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699395407,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_2","price":26.48,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699428175,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_3","price":38.91,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660434255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_2","price":67.86,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660467023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_3","price":101.79,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish.png?v=1730477476"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur","title":"PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" Finish Polish (up to P2000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemoving sanding marks after P2000 and creating a high gloss finish — SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish do? The \"4\/6\" finish polish removes sanding marks up to P2000 grit without residue, levels the paint surface after wet sanding, and creates a mirrored high gloss finish — ideal as the first polishing step after wet or dry sanding for paint correction and spot repairs.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint sanding and the removal of deep paint damage, the transition from sandpaper to polish is the crucial step: wet sanding with P1500 or P2000 removes orange peel, deep scratches, or paint runs, but leaves characteristic sanding marks (halo patterns) that must be completely removed before sealing. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the professional finish polish specifically developed for precisely this transition: abrasive enough to completely remove P2000 sanding marks, fine enough to create a crystal-clear, hologram-free high gloss finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSpecifically developed for use after wet sanding up to P2000.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasiveness of PerfectFinish is calibrated to an \"4\/6\" cutting range on the SONAX product scale — this means it's strong enough to level the micro-scratches created by P1500–P2000 sandpaper, without creating new deep holograms that would require another finishing step. In many cases, PerfectFinish is the only polishing step necessary after wet sanding to prepare the surface for sealing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDesigned for machine polishing with rotary and orbital polishers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish formula is optimized for machine use: consistent viscosity for good distribution on the pad, sufficient working time at moderate temperatures, and a drying phase that allows for clear assessment of the results. The polish works with both rotary machines (more cutting power, for stronger sanding marks) and orbital polishers (less heat generation, for the final finishing pass).\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLeaves a clear coat that is immediately ready for sealing.\u003c\/strong\u003e After polishing with PerfectFinish, the surface is free of sanding marks, holograms, and polishing oil residues — the clear coat is in a state that is immediately ready for a sealant or ceramic coating after a final panel wipe step. This immediate readiness for sealing distinguishes a good finish polish from a mediocre one that leaves fine residues after polishing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e PerfectFinish delivers the best results with a medium-hard combination pad on a rotary machine or with a lightly abrasive foam pad on an orbital polisher — depending on the severity of the sanding marks. After sanding, rinse the area with clear water and let it dry completely before applying the polish. Start by spreading it at low speed, then make several overlapping passes at medium speed. Perform the last pass at reduced speed to achieve an even, hologram-free result. After polishing, degrease with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to completely remove polishing oil residues before sealing. For very deep sanding marks (P1000 or coarser), we recommend an intermediate step with a medium-abrasive correction stage before using PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive technology of PerfectFinish — what \"up to P2000\" means in paint sanding\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe designation \"up to P2000\" in the product description of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is an important technical specification: It indicates up to which sandpaper grit the polish can completely remove the sanding marks created by it. P2000 sandpaper has a very fine grit (2000 corresponds to an average particle size of approx. 10 micrometers) and creates correspondingly fine sanding marks. P1500 creates slightly deeper grooves (average particle size approx. 13 micrometers), P1000 even deeper (approx. 18 micrometers).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEach of these grit sizes creates sanding marks with characteristic depth and width — the polish must be able to level these grooves with its abrasive particles. PerfectFinish contains abrasive particles whose size and hardness are calibrated to effectively level P2000 grooves. For deeper grooves (P1000 and coarser), PerfectFinish would require several passes or would be completely insufficient — here, a more abrasive correction stage is recommended first, which reduces the grooves to the P2000 level, before PerfectFinish is used. This step-by-step principle applies to all polishing and sanding processes: each step processes the grooves of the previous step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"4\/6\" classification in the SONAX product scale positions PerfectFinish as a medium-fine finish polish: more abrasive than a pure high-gloss finish polish, but finer than typical correction stage polishes. This position makes PerfectFinish particularly versatile: it can be used both as the only polishing step after fine wet sanding and as the penultimate step before another high-gloss finish polish like \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Which variant is better depends on the desired result, the vehicle condition, and the available time budget.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe physical principle behind the transition from sanding to polishing is blending: Each sanding or polishing stage creates a new, finer pattern of grooves that overlays the pattern of the previous stage. If the new pattern is finer than the original refractive index threshold of light, the surface appears optically smooth. PerfectFinish reworks the P2000 grooves with abrasive particles so fine that the surface microstructures remaining after polishing are below the human eye's perception threshold — and the surface appears accordingly glossy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying PerfectFinish correctly — pad selection and technique guidelines for optimal results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe application of finish polish begins with correct pad selection, which is crucial for the result. For use after wet sanding (P1500–P2000), combination pads with slight intrinsic abrasiveness are recommended, which support the corrective performance of PerfectFinish and enable efficient sanding mark removal in just a few passes. For use as a second finish step after a correction stage, softer finish pads are suitable, which level out any remaining light polishing marks. Pad hardness directly affects effective abrasiveness: a hard pad with a moderately abrasive polish like PerfectFinish can achieve similar overall performance as a soft pad with a more aggressive polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine selection: The rotary polisher offers more cutting power than the orbital machine for processing sanding marks and is the faster option for heavily pronounced P1500 sanding marks. The orbital machine reduces heat generation and is better suited for delicate paints or as a final step for hologram minimization. Many professionals use a combination for PerfectFinish: initial passes with the rotary machine at medium speed for sanding mark removal, then a final pass with the orbital machine at low speed for a hologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eResult control: Evaluate polishing work under correction light (LED floodlight or daylight at an oblique angle). Remaining sanding marks are visible under this light as parallel line patterns, holograms as random swirl patterns. If P2000 sanding marks are still visible after several passes with PerfectFinish, it indicates either insufficient polishing pressure, too low speed, or an unsuitable pad — a common mistake is switching too early to a pad that is too soft, which does not sufficiently level the sanding marks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of application for PerfectFinish — paint correction, spot repair, and repainting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is indispensable in several professional application scenarios. Paint residues and runs after repainting: Fresh paint layers sometimes develop runs, sags, and orange peel effects that are mechanically removed by sanding and polishing. Wet sanding with P2000 levels the surface, and PerfectFinish brings the high gloss to the finished level — a standard workflow in paint shops and body shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDeep individual scratches and stone chip aftertreatment: After spot repair (sanding and partial painting), the repaired area must be polished out and brought to the gloss level of the surrounding area. PerfectFinish is the right tool for this transition area: It removes the sanding marks from the spot repair and creates a gloss that seamlessly blends into the surrounding paint. On small repair areas, PerfectFinish can also be applied by hand with an applicator if the repair area is too small for machine processing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGeneral paint correction for heavily damaged vehicles: For vehicles with deep swirl marks, heavy holograms, or mechanical damage, a multi-stage process is necessary — a coarse correction stage for the main work, then PerfectFinish for the transition to high gloss. In this context, PerfectFinish replaces the separate sanding and finishing combination when the previous stage has already been brought to P1500–P2000 level. For this broad application area, availability in 5 liters is particularly attractive for businesses with high polishing volumes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePerfectFinish vs. NP 03-06 — which finish polish for which application\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common question when buying a finish polish from the SONAX PROFILINE range: When PerfectFinish, when \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e? The answer lies in the pre-treatment: PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" is designed for situations where the surface was sanded before polishing (P1500–P2000 wet sanding) and stronger sanding marks are present. NP 03-06, on the other hand, is the finer finish polish for the last step after a correction polish — when there are no sanding marks, but only fine polishing marks and holograms from the previous polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePractically speaking: If a vehicle comes in for polishing after a repaint or wet sanding, PerfectFinish is the first polishing step. If a vehicle comes in for finishing after a normal abrasive correction stage (polishing without prior sanding), NP 03-06 is the right step. For detailers who want to cover both scenarios, we recommend having both polishes available — the vehicle and its pre-treatment determine which polish is used. In a two-stage combination (PerfectFinish after sanding, then NP 03-06 as the final finish), outstanding results can be achieved on paints that require maximum high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners who only want to buy one finish polish: NP 03-06 is the safer all-round choice for vehicles without prior sanding. PerfectFinish is indispensable for vehicles with prior wet sanding — it can also be used on vehicles without sanding marks, but requires more passes than NP 03-06 to achieve a hologram-free result. The added value of PerfectFinish therefore lies in its ability to handle sanding marks, not just pure gloss generation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish — container sizes and economical use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is available in 250 ml, 1 liter, and 5 liter sizes, as well as 2-piece and 3-piece sets. The 250 ml container is suitable for beginners and occasional users, as well as for evaluating the polish before a larger order. The 1-liter container is the most economical standard size for regular detailers and smaller detailing businesses — one liter is sufficient for approximately 30–50 complete vehicle polishes. The 5-liter container is aimed at body shops, paint shops, and detailing businesses with high polishing volumes who use the polish daily and require the lowest price per liter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses that have wet sanding as a regular part of their service offering (e.g., paint correction, polishing out new paint, spot repair), PerfectFinish is an indispensable component of their polishing kit. In combination with NP 03-06 for the final high-gloss finish, Prepare for the panel wipe step, and a sealant, PerfectFinish covers the complete post-sanding workflow. This workflow is a professional standard in body shops and high-end detailing businesses.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn summary, SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish is the product for all situations where sanding marks up to P2000 need to be removed and a high gloss finish is desired. Anyone who regularly performs wet sanding preparations, polishes out spot repairs, or brings new paint to a high gloss needs PerfectFinish as an integral part of their toolkit — it precisely and reliably bridges the gap between sandpaper and high-gloss finish polish.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506852782415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410","price":18.38,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506852815183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000","price":50.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506852847951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2245000","price":155.91,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852880719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_2","price":36.76,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852913487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_3","price":55.14,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852946255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_2","price":99.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852979023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_3","price":146.79,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur.png?v=1730639593"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur","title":"PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" One-Step Polish (up to P1500)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks and get high gloss in one step with SONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can SONAX Cut+Finish do? A one-step polish with maximum cut (5\/5) and maximum gloss (5\/5) — it pulls out sanding marks up to P1500 and lays down a high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint correction there's one situation that keeps coming back: the paint has been wet-sanded — whether to fix a defect, after a spot-repair respray, or to knock down orange peel — and now the sanding marks have to go. Normally that means two steps: a cutting compound to take down the marks, then a finishing polish for the gloss. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e rolls both steps into one product. With a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5, it removes sanding marks from paper up to P1500 grit and leaves a high-gloss, hologram-free surface in a single pass. For workshops and detailers who need to get from sanding to a sale-ready result fast, that's a serious time-saver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut at maximum gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e A 5\/5 for cut and a 5\/5 for finish is unique in the SONAX PROFILINE range — no other product in the line hits the top mark in both categories. The special abrasive blend breaks down progressively as you polish: it starts aggressive to take down the sanding marks, then ends with a fine break-down that builds the gloss. That behaviour is exactly why a single pass does the job where other products need two separate steps.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and workshop-ready.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a bodyshop, being silicone-free isn't optional, it's mandatory. Silicone-bearing polishes can cause craters and fish-eyes on a respray — a problem that only shows up after the paint goes on and then writes off the whole job. So Cut+Finish is deliberately formulated silicone-free and can be used right next to the spray booth with no contamination risk.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow-dust working with a long open time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polish stays wet and workable through the whole pass without dusting or drying out. That long open time gives you the freedom to extend the pass when the paint calls for it — with no worry about polish dust settling into shut-lines and trim gaps. The wipe-off afterwards comes away in one go, no re-cleaning needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run Cut+Finish on a rotary with a medium-hard to hard foam pad (orange or white in the SONAX colour system). Start at 1200 to 1500 rpm and step up gradually to a maximum of 1800 rpm if you need it. Drop three or four pea-sized dots onto the pad, spread the polish at low speed and work in rows with about 50 percent overlap. Polish each section until the polish goes clear — that's the moment the abrasives have fully broken down and the gloss comes up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 5\/5 and gloss 5\/5 — how Cut+Finish pulls off both in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe secret of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is in the abrasive technology: the abrasive particles in the formula are built to break down progressively under pressure and heat. At the start of the pass the particles are big enough to take down the coarse sanding marks from P1500 paper — a job normally reserved for a dedicated cutting compound. As the pass goes on, the particles break into finer and finer fragments, until they're small enough to polish the surface to a high gloss without leaving fresh micro-scratches behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat progressive break-down is the reason the polish needs a full pass to show what it can do. Stop too early — say after thirty seconds instead of two minutes per section — and you stay stuck in the cutting stage: you get the coarse marks out, but no gloss. The pass is only done once the polish goes clear on the paint and the typical shine shows up. Reading that point takes a little experience, but after the first two or three panels you'll have the feel for it down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misconception: some users think a 5\/5 polish is more aggressive than a pure cutting compound like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX CutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e. It's the other way around — CutMax has more cut at 6\/4 and can take down coarser defects, such as sanding marks from P1000 paper. Cut+Finish starts at P1500 and reaches the same gloss result you'd otherwise only get with an extra finishing step. If you need to sand coarser, you need CutMax as the first step — Cut+Finish is then the fast one-step solution for lighter to medium sanding work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a one-step polish properly — machine type, pad choice and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is built primarily for rotary polishers. Here's why: a rotary, with its pure rotating action, builds more heat and friction than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy the progressive abrasive break-down needs to run the full spectrum from cut to high gloss. It works on a dual-action machine too, just with reduced cut: the eccentric action builds less heat, so the particles break down slower and the pass takes longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e drives the result more than anything. On a hard pad (white or orange) Cut+Finish gives you its full cut — ideal for working a panel after wet-sanding. On a medium-hard pad the cut is more moderate, enough for refreshing weathered paint without sanding first. On a soft finishing pad the polish loses too much cut and no longer reaches the performance it was built for — for pure finish polishing there are better-suited products like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the application: drop three or four pea-sized dots of polish onto the pad, spread them at low speed over the panel and then bring it up to working speed. Work in rows with about fifty percent overlap across the whole section until the polish goes clear. A typical section — say half a bonnet — takes two to three minutes on a rotary. Wipe the polish residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED lamp: if there are still sanding marks visible, repeat the pass with a bit more pressure or a higher speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you polish large areas — bonnet, roof, side panels — getting the pressure right is the key. Hold the machine so the pad sits evenly on the surface and let the weight of the machine do the work. Extra pressure from above does raise the cut, but it also builds more heat and can cause holograms on sensitive paint — exactly what Cut+Finish is meant to avoid. If you still see defects after one pass, a second pass at the same pressure beats a single pass with too much pressure.\n\nAfter polishing, it's worth degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to strip the last of the polish residue. Under the Prepare control spray the real result shows up — without polishing oils and fillers that can visually mask defects. That step matters especially if a ceramic coating or paint protection film is going on afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRemoving sanding marks after wet-sanding — the ideal jobs for Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the follow-up after wet-sanding with P1200 to P1500 paper. Day-to-day you'll run into that in a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003espot-repair follow-up\u003c\/strong\u003e in the bodyshop, blend-ins and touch-up areas get wet-sanded first to level the paint and knock down orange peel. Cut+Finish takes the sanding marks out in one pass and brings the repaired area up to the gloss level of the surrounding original paint — without a second polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003enew-car prep\u003c\/strong\u003e, plenty of vehicles come from the factory with light orange peel and transport scratches. A careful wet-sand with P1500 levels the surface, and Cut+Finish brings the gloss back. Here the silicone-free formula plays an important role: should the new car need a respray inside the warranty period, the silicone-free polish causes no problems with the repaint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003eclassic-car restoration\u003c\/strong\u003e or the recovery of badly weathered paint, Cut+Finish is enough on its own in many cases, as long as the weathering doesn't run too deep. On original stove-baked paint, which is often softer than modern water-based finishes, Cut+Finish offers enough cut to take down the oxidised layer and enough finish to bring the gloss underneath back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario that comes up a lot day-to-day: \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal without sanding first.\u003c\/strong\u003e Not every scratch needs the sandpaper. Surface scratches that sit only in the clearcoat and disappear when the surface is wet can be polished out directly with Cut+Finish. The 5\/5 cut is enough to take down the damaged clearcoat layer far enough for the scratch to disappear — and the 5\/5 gloss makes sure the spot doesn't end up looking duller than the surrounding paint afterwards. For this job a medium-hard pad beats the hard pad, so you keep the cut more controlled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere Cut+Finish hits its limits: on sanding marks from P1000 and coarser it doesn't have the cut to take them out fully in one pass. Here CutMax (6\/4) is the better choice as a first step, followed by a finish with PerfectFinish or the NP 03-06. Cut+Finish is no replacement for a dedicated cutting compound on heavy defect removal — it's the one-step solution for the P1200 to P1500 range, where it plays its strength in full. On extremely hard ceramic clearcoats too, like the ones some German premium makers use, Cut+Finish can need more passes than on softer Japanese or Korean paint systems — the abrasives break down slower on the hard substrate, and the polishing process takes correspondingly longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polish comparison — Cut+Finish vs. CutMax vs. PerfectFinish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range, Cut+Finish, CutMax and PerfectFinish form a logical gradient that covers different needs:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pure cutting compound — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5). It comes out when coarse defects like P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches or heavy weathering have to be taken down. After CutMax a finishing step is nearly always needed, because the gloss result alone isn't enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart: moderate cut (4\/5), maximum gloss (6\/5). It's built for the finishing step after a cutting compound and creates the last bit of high gloss needed for concours results and showroom quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits right in the middle and is the all-rounder: it manages the cut of a medium cutting compound and the gloss of a good finishing polish in a single pass. The upside is obvious — time saved, fewer pad changes, less polish residue. The downside: if you have to push to the extremes — heaviest defect removal or that absolute last bit of high gloss — you're better served by the two-step approach of CutMax and PerfectFinish. For an estimated seventy percent of the day-to-day polishing work in workshop and detailing, Cut+Finish is plenty as the only polish you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst polishes from other makers, Cut+Finish positions itself as the workshop-focused solution: the silicone-free formula, the low-dust working and the long open time are properties that make the difference in daily workshop use. Hobby detailers who polish once a year notice these upsides less — for them what counts above all is the end result. In a workshop polishing ten to fifteen vehicles a week, though, these upsides add up to a tangible efficiency gain: less cleanup thanks to no dust, no contamination risk thanks to being silicone-free, less wasted product thanks to the controlled consistency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a one-step polish — bottle sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For getting started or the occasional job on your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — that polishes a whole vehicle and leaves you a reserve for touch-ups. For workshops and professional detailers polishing every day, the 1000 ml bottle is the more economical pick: the price per litre drops noticeably and you reorder less often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow we recommend the combination: Cut+Finish as the main polish, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for result checking and degreasing, and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e as the final sealant. This trio covers the whole process from defect correction to long-term protection — in three steps instead of the five or six a multi-stage process with separate cutting and finishing polishes would need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith several vehicles a day a further upside of Cut+Finish shows up: you only need one product and one set of pads, instead of switching between cutting and finishing polish. That cuts not just the setup time but also the risk of mix-ups — in a workshop where several people polish, a simple one-product system is less error-prone than a three-stage process with different polishes and pad combinations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical note on storage: Cut+Finish can separate slightly when it stands for a while — the abrasives settle at the bottom. Shake the bottle well before every use until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed, and it keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life. Frozen polish loses its homogeneous consistency and won't work evenly anymore even after it thaws.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519485403471,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410","price":18.77,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519485436239,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000","price":55.45,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485501775,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_2","price":37.54,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485534543,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_3","price":56.31,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485567311,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_2","price":110.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485600079,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_3","price":166.35,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur.png?v=1730642087"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE UltimateCut \"6+\/3\" Sanding and Polishing Compound (up to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eProfessionally remove deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks — SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut do? The strongest cut compound in the PROFILINE polishing range removes deep scratches, heavy swirl marks, and sanding marks down to P1000 grit — for massive paint correction before finish polishing.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDeep individual scratches, extensive swirl marks after years of neglect, paint runs after repainting, or sanding marks from P800–P1000 sandpaper: These types of damage are too severe for normal corrective polishes. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e is the answer to these extreme demands: the strongest abrasive polish in the PROFILINE range with a \"6+\/3\" rating — maximum abrasiveness for maximum corrective performance, developed for professional use on heavily damaged paints where milder products would be overwhelmed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum abrasive power for the strongest paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a \"6+\/3\" rating, UltimateCut is the most abrasive product in the SONAX PROFILINE polishing line. Its coarse abrasive particles can completely level sanding marks from P1000 sandpaper in just a few machine passes — a task for which milder polishes like PerfectFinish or OS polishes would require significantly more passes or fail entirely. The high abrasive power significantly reduces processing time for heavily damaged paints.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDesigned for rotary polishers and fast dual-action polishers.\u003c\/strong\u003e UltimateCut is developed for high-performance machine use — with rotary polishers (DA polishers) and fast dual-action polishers with large throws. Hand application is less effective with this abrasive power; the mechanical energy of the machine is necessary to fully activate the strong abrasive particles and achieve an even corrective effect. High-performance use is its intended profile.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCombinable with the multi-stage PROFILINE polishing process.\u003c\/strong\u003e UltimateCut is designed as the first step in a multi-stage polishing process: After the UltimateCut step (maximum correction), a medium correction stage typically follows (e.g., FS 05-04), and then a finish stage (PerfectFinish or NP 03-06). This staged process ensures that any remaining polishing marks from the aggressive first step are completely removed by subsequent stages before the surface is sealed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Only use UltimateCut where the depth of damage truly requires it — too much abrasive power on thin paint layers can remove unnecessary material and endanger the paint. Before using UltimateCut, perform paint thickness measurements to ensure sufficient material for multi-stage processing. Start with a hard, abrasive pad (lambswool pad or hard foam pad) on a rotary polisher at medium speed (3–4). After the UltimateCut step, check the surface for any remaining polishing marks and proceed with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the next stage. For the final high-gloss finish, then use \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Change pads between stages — abrasive particles from different stages should not be mixed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive technology of UltimateCut — what \"6+\/3\" and \"up to P1000\" mean in the polishing process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe designations \"6+\/3\" and \"up to P1000\" in the product specification for \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e provide important clues about its position and application profile. \"6+\/3\" describes the abrasive rating in the SONAX polishing product hierarchy: Higher numbers indicate more aggressive abrasion. UltimateCut, with \"6+\/3,\" is at the upper end of this scale — the first three digits describe the cutting performance in use; the format is a specific Sonax-internal classification method.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"up to P1000\" specification is the most practically relevant: It indicates that UltimateCut is capable of completely leveling sanding marks from P1000 sandpaper. P1000 is a medium-coarse grit (particle size approx. 18 micrometers), typically used as the first sanding grit in wet sanding to remove paint runs, orange peel after repainting, or deep scratches. Sanding marks of this depth are too deep for fine corrective polishes (NP 03-06, PerfectFinish) — they require the abrasive power of UltimateCut to be brought to a level that subsequent stages can further process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive particles in UltimateCut have a controlled particle size, which enables strong corrective performance without creating uncontrollably deep scratches. Modern compound polishes often use abrasive particles that break down into smaller particles through polishing — this \"diminishing abrasive\" effect means that the polish is very aggressive at the beginning (coarse particles) but becomes milder towards the end of the polishing pass (broken down, smaller particles). This reduces the depth of residual polishing marks and facilitates further processing in the next stage. The UltimateCut formula uses this principle to leave a surface after the correction step that can be further treated with a medium-abrasive polish or directly with PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe lubricating properties of the UltimateCut formula play a crucial secondary role: A cut compound must not only be abrasive but also provide sufficient lubrication for the pad so that the mechanical energy of the machine is controlled and converted into abrasion, not heat generation. Formulas that are too dry cut well initially but overheat quickly and can create dry-run marks on the paint if there is insufficient lubrication. UltimateCut is formulated with a balance of abrasive power and lubrication that is suitable for high-performance use over longer polishing passes. On large vehicles (SUVs, vans, heavy sedans), this balance is particularly important, as the entire polishing job takes significantly longer than on a compact vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn important aspect when using high-cut compounds like UltimateCut is heat input: High abrasive power during machine use generates significant heat at the contact point between the pad and the paint. Overheated paint can burn (orange-brown discoloration), soften, or develop cracks due to thermal stress. Therefore: use a rotary polisher at moderate speed, sufficient product on the pad (lubricating effect reduces heat), and regularly check the paint temperature between passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying UltimateCut correctly — machine, pad, and multi-stage process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe application of the cut compound begins with machine selection: For maximum cutting performance when treating deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks, the rotary polisher (Single Action, SA) is the first choice — it delivers more torque and removal power than a dual-action polisher. For users who only have a dual-action polisher, we recommend a hard foam pad or a hybrid wool pad and several intensive passes — the result is acceptable, but slower than with a rotary machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad selection: For UltimateCut, hard or medium-hard abrasive pads (lambswool pads, hybrid wool pads, or hard foam pads) are suitable. Soft finishing pads significantly reduce abrasive performance and should not be used for UltimateCut. Before use, clean the pad with a pad washer or cloth to remove old polish residues — particles from a previous polishing stage still in the pad can cause scratches during UltimateCut application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplication sequence: Apply a small amount of UltimateCut to the pad, spread it at low speed, then work with medium to high speed in intensive overlapping passes over the surface. The polish dries relatively quickly — at room temperature and normal humidity, work in sections. After the UltimateCut step: completely remove polish residues with a microfiber cloth, check the surface under a correction light for any remaining sanding marks. If P1000 marks are still visible, repeat the UltimateCut step. If not, proceed to the next polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of application for UltimateCut — when maximum corrective power is needed\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e is used in situations where milder polishes are insufficient. Wet sanding after repainting: After painting work in a workshop or body shop, fresh paint often exhibits orange peel, paint runs, or inclusions. These are mechanically leveled by wet sanding with P800–P1000. The deep sanding marks created are a classic task for UltimateCut as the first polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHeavily damaged old paintwork: Vehicles that have never been polished for years and show severe extensive swirl marks, deep individual scratches from car washes, or oxidation marks require maximum corrective performance to be brought to a presentable gloss level. UltimateCut is the powerful first step that brings the level of damage to a point where corrective polishes can further refine it. Often, for heavily damaged paintwork, the combination of UltimateCut + FS 05-04 + PerfectFinish + NP 03-06 is necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpot repair and color transition areas: For spot painting, the repaired area must be polished out and brought to the gloss level of the surrounding area. Depending on the grit of sandpaper used, UltimateCut may be necessary as the first polishing step. In transition and blending areas, a gentler approach is needed to avoid removing too much material from the surrounding paint area, which is already in good condition — here, UltimateCut should be used precisely on the repair spot, not on the transition area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eVehicles with very thick clear coat layers (factory paints from the early 2000s or certain classic car repaints) can tolerate intensive multiple treatments with UltimateCut without entering risky paint thickness areas. Modern vehicles with thinner clear coat layers (especially from Asian and some German manufacturers with special paints) require more careful dosing of abrasive energy — one or two machine passes, then paint thickness measurement, before proceeding further. This controlled approach is not a sign of over-caution, but rather a professional standard for sustainable paint correction that does not compromise the vehicle for future detailing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUltimateCut in the polishing pyramid — position and combination strategies\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polishing line offers a complete abrasive hierarchy for every degree of damage. At the top of the abrasive power is \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e as a cut compound, followed by \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/a\u003e as a medium-abrasive correction stage. The finishing stages are \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e (after wet sanding) and NP 03-06 (finest high-gloss finish). This polishing pyramid allows for the step-by-step treatment of any degree of damage to a flawless high-gloss finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers and detailing businesses that use the complete PROFILINE polishing system, a clear decision logic emerges: Scratch depth determines the entry point into the pyramid. Damage deeper than P1000 → UltimateCut as a start. Damage between P1500 and P2000 → PerfectFinish as a start. Only fine swirl marks → NP 03-06 or OS 02-06 as a single stage. This systematic approach based on the degree of damage is a professional standard that saves time and prevents over-processing of the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to third-party cut compounds, UltimateCut as a PROFILINE product offers the advantage of system compatibility: It is coordinated with the subsequent PROFILINE polishing stages and leaves a surface after the correction step that can be optimally processed with these products. The use of cut compounds from different manufacturers in combination with PROFILINE finish polishes is possible, but the coordination of particle sizes is then not guaranteed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut — containers and recommended use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e is available in 250 ml, 1 liter, and 5 liter sizes, as well as 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml container is suitable for beginners and occasional users, the 1-liter container for regular professional use, and the 5-liter container for body shops and high-throughput polishing operations. Approximately 20–50 ml are needed per complete vehicle paint correction with UltimateCut, depending on the paint condition and vehicle size — the 1-liter container is therefore sufficient for 20–50 complete detailing jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUltimateCut should be in the toolkit of every body shop and detailer who offers paint correction after wet sanding or heavy swirl removal as a service. It is not an everyday product for regular maintenance detailing, but rather a specialized tool for cases where truly maximum corrective performance is needed. The investment in UltimateCut pays off through significantly reduced processing times for difficult paintwork — which directly translates into the economic efficiency of paint correction services.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn summary, SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut is the strongest corrective tool in the PROFILINE polishing range for all situations where milder polishes are insufficient. Those who regularly polish out new paint jobs, continue after P1000 wet sanding, or correct heavily damaged old paintwork will find the power and efficiency necessary for these demanding tasks in UltimateCut.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519971909967,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410","price":20.26,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519971942735,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000","price":60.4,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53519971975503,"sku":"D1-SNX-2395000","price":196.82,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972008271,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_2","price":40.52,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972041039,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_3","price":60.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972073807,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_2","price":120.8,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972106575,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_3","price":181.2,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur.png?v=1730646033"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur","title":"PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-free high-gloss finish with the SONAX EX 04-06 polish for dual-action machines\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 04-06 do? A finishing polish with cut level 4 and gloss level 6 — built specifically for dual-action machines, it pulls out light paint defects and lays down a hologram-free high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDual-action machines are the go-to for a lot of detailers because they're safer to handle than rotaries — less heat build-up, less risk of holograms, less chance of burning through the clear coat. The catch: not every polish is built for the dual-action motion. Plenty of polishes that work brilliantly on the rotary only deliver a fraction of their power on a DA, because the lower heat slows the abrasive breakdown. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was developed specifically for this machine type: its abrasive blend breaks down reliably even at the lower friction energy of a dual-action machine, and with a cut of 4\/5 and a gloss of 6\/5 it gets you a result on the DA that's almost identical to a two-step process of cutting and finishing polish on the rotary. If you work with a dual-action machine and want to correct light to medium paint defects, the EX 04-06 is the obvious pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formulation of the EX 04-06 is tuned to the specific kinematics of dual-action machines. The abrasive particles break down at lower temperature and lower pressure than with classic rotary polishes — meaning you get the full power on the DA without having to lean in. That behaviour makes the EX 04-06 especially beginner-friendly: even without years of polishing experience, moderate pressure and a mid-range speed get you a professional result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gloss level of 6\/5 — the top mark in the SONAX system — means the polish leaves a finish that's free of holograms, swirls and buffer marks. On dark paint, where every defect shows up straight away, this is the point that matters. The EX 04-06 produces a result on black or dark-blue paint that stays flawless even under direct sunlight and LED inspection light.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and bodyshop-safe.\u003c\/strong\u003e Like all SONAX PROFILINE polishes, the EX 04-06 is silicone-free. In bodyshops that polish and paint side by side, that's a must — silicone residue on neighbouring vehicles or shop surfaces can cause craters during a respray. Being silicone-free also makes the EX 04-06 a first choice for prep ahead of a ceramic coating, where an absolutely silicone-free surface gives the best bonding.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the EX 04-06 with a medium foam pad (orange in the SONAX colour system) at speed 4 to 5 on the dual-action machine. Drop three pea-sized dabs onto the pad, spread them at low speed and then work with moderate pressure in slow, overlapping passes. The key to a perfect result: slow machine movement. Move the machine about two to three centimetres per second across the surface — noticeably slower than most beginners do it by instinct. That's the only way the abrasives get enough contact time to fully cut out the defects and bring up the high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFinishing polish for dual-action machines — why the EX range is formulated differently from rotary polishes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e belongs to the EX range, which SONAX developed specifically for dual-action machines. The technical background: a dual-action machine moves the pad on a circular orbit with a simultaneous rotation — this double motion generates less friction energy per unit of area than the pure rotation of a rotary machine. Polishes built for the rotary need that higher energy to break their abrasives down fully. On a dual-action machine they only break down partway — the result is coarse leftover particles that leave micro-marring and holograms instead of bringing up gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX range solves this with an adapted particle size and binder matrix. The abrasives are smaller and break down at lower energy input — perfect for the dual-action motion. The flip side: on a rotary the abrasive breaks down too fast, and the polish loses its cut before the defects are fully removed. So the EX 04-06 is no replacement for rotary polishes like the CutMax or Cut+Finish — it's their counterpart for a different class of machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, the difference shows up most on hard European clear coats, which are tougher to work with the dual-action machine than soft Japanese paints. On these clears the EX 04-06 gives enough working time and cut to keep performing consistently even after several polishing passes — something cheaper DA polishes often can't manage, because their formulation is spent after the first pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne practical angle: plenty of detailers own both a dual-action and a rotary machine and switch depending on the panel. On big, flat areas like the bonnet and roof the rotary is more efficient, while on edges, body lines and curved sections the dual-action machine gives you more safety margin. In that mixed workflow the EX 04-06 is the finishing product for all the dual-action sections — while a polish like the Cut+Finish or PerfectFinish handles the rotary sections. If you want to stick with a single machine and prefer the dual-action, the EX range gives you a complete system that asks for no compromise on performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use a dual-action polish properly — speed, pressure and machine movement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e on the dual-action machine follows a clear scheme: a medium to soft polishing pad, a mid-range speed (step 4 to 5 on most machines), moderate pressure and slow machine movement. That combination is the key to a hologram-free result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrop three pea-sized dabs of polish onto the pad and spread them at the lowest speed across the panel. Then step up to working speed and polish in slow, overlapping passes across the whole section. Slow here means: two to three centimetres per second. Most beginners move the machine too fast — the pad glides over the surface without enough time to cut the defects out. A slower movement increases the contact time per unit of area and uses the abrasive fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epressure\u003c\/strong\u003e should be moderate — just enough that the pad sits evenly on the surface. Unlike the rotary, where more pressure means more cut, the dual-action machine reacts to excess pressure in reverse: the dual-action motion gets choked, the pad spins slower, and the cut drops instead of climbing. If you notice the machine bogging down under pressure, you're leaning in too hard — back off and let the machine do the work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake: too much polish on the pad. Three pea-sized dabs are enough for a section of about fifty by fifty centimetres — more product dilutes the cut and stretches the working time without improving the result. If the polish is still sitting milky-thick on the surface after the pass, you've either laid on too much or moved the machine too fast. Cut the amount on the next section and move the machine slower — the result picks up straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn temperature: the dual-action machine generates less heat than a rotary, but on dark paint in summer sun the surface temperature can still get problematic. Work in a shaded spot or garage and check the temperature now and then with the back of your hand. Ideal ambient temperatures are between fifteen and twenty-five degrees Celsius at moderate humidity, to keep working conditions optimal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the polishing pass, wipe the residue off with a clean, soft microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED inspection lamp. On dark paint it's worth an extra check under direct sunlight — some holograms and swirls only show up under natural light, because the LED lamp hits at a different angle. Once you're happy with the result, comes the degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — only then do you see the actual result without polishing oils.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting light to medium paint defects — the ideal use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't built for heavy defect correction — for that there's the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05 with cut 5\/5\u003c\/a\u003e. The strength of the EX 04-06 sits in a different area: correcting light to medium defects in a single pass while producing the best possible finish at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common use case is the \u003cstrong\u003esingle-stage polish on near-new paint\u003c\/strong\u003e. Vehicles one to three years old typically show wash marring, light swirls and a general dullness in the clear coat. The EX 04-06 removes these surface defects in one pass and leaves a high gloss that sits above factory-new level. For detailers who regularly work on lease returns or young used cars, that's the typical job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario: \u003cstrong\u003efinishing after a cutting stage\u003c\/strong\u003e. When the paint has first been worked with a cutting polish (the EX 05-05, say, or the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e), the EX 04-06 removes the leftover micro-marring and holograms in the second step and brings the paint to a high gloss. This two-step process — cutting polish plus finishing polish — is the gold standard in professional paint correction and gets you the best results on demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 04-06 is also ideal for \u003cstrong\u003eprep ahead of a coating\u003c\/strong\u003e. Before a ceramic coating or paint protection film goes on, the paint has to be in the best possible condition — any defect locked in under the coating stays visible for its entire service life. The EX 04-06 gives you exactly the surface a coating needs: defect-free, hologram-free and free of silicone residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne scenario that often gets underrated: \u003cstrong\u003eworking on vehicles with part-wrapped sections\u003c\/strong\u003e. When a vehicle has both painted and wrapped panels, the polish must not get onto the film — polishing residue can settle into the film texture and is hard to get out of there. The controlled way the dual-action machine works, combined with the EX 04-06, minimises the risk of splatter and lets you work precisely right up to the film edge. For these situations the dual-action machine clearly beats the rotary, because it slings off less product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDual-action polish comparison — EX 04-06 vs. EX 05-05 vs. NP 03-06\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range offers three finishing polishes to choose from, differing in cut and gloss:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is the more aggressive sibling: cut 5\/5, gloss 5\/5. It comes in when the defects are too deep for the EX 04-06 — things like P1500 sanding marks, heavier weathering or scratches that go beyond the typical wash marring. The gloss level of 5\/5 is good, but not at the level of the EX 04-06 — for the highest finishing standards, a pass with the EX 04-06 follows the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the gentlest option: cut 3\/5, gloss 6\/5. It's meant for paint that barely shows any defects and just needs that final polishing touch — after a thorough cutting stage, say, or on new cars that only need a light refresh. The lower cut also makes it the safest pick on extremely thin clear coats or historic paint, where every bit of material removal should be kept to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the all-rounder between these extremes: enough cut for typical everyday defects, maximum gloss for a professional finish. For most single-stage polishes on the dual-action machine it's the best choice — versatile enough for day-to-day work, strong enough on the finishing side for demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the EX 04-06 — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle polishes — product use on the dual-action machine is moderate, because the polish works efficiently and needs few reloads. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops and keen private users who polish regularly. With the value combo you save on top of buying single — especially for detailers who run the EX 04-06 as their standard finishing polish, the stock pack pays off fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow on the dual-action machine we recommend: on light defects, the EX 04-06 as a single-step solution on a medium pad. On medium defects, first the EX 05-05 on a hard pad, then the EX 04-06 on a soft pad for the finish. After that, degrease with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e and, if needed, seal with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003ePolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a CeramicCoating of your choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA note on storage: the EX 04-06 tends to separate slightly when left standing for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use, until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen polish loses its abrasive structure and won't go on evenly after that, and should be thrown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners stuck between the EX 04-06 and a rotary polish, the recommendation is clear: if you've got no machine-polishing experience yet, start with the dual-action machine and the EX 04-06. The combination is far more forgiving than a rotary with an aggressive cutting polish. You can learn the technique calmly, without fear of burn-throughs or holograms. The result might not quite reach what an experienced polisher gets on the rotary — but it'll be solid, safe and more than enough for the vast majority of needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520265773391,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410","price":14.06,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520265806159,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000","price":33.15,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265871695,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_2","price":28.12,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265904463,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_3","price":42.18,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265937231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_2","price":64.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265969999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_3","price":95.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur.png?v=1730648016"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut","title":"PROFILINE EX \"05-05\" Cutting Compound (Heavy-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches on the dual-action polisher with the SONAX EX 05-05 cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 05-05 do? A heavy-cut cutting compound for dual-action polishers with a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5 — it removes deep scratches, sanding marks up to P1500 and heavy weathering, and with the HybridwollPad it gets you results on a rotary level.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a long time, dual-action polishers were seen as the safe but weak tool — fine for finishing work, but no good for serious defect correction. Deep scratches, sanding marks and heavy weathering were the domain of the rotary, because only it built enough friction energy for the material removal you need. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e breaks with that limitation. Paired with a HybridwollPad, this cutting compound gets you results on the dual-action that used to be reserved for the rotary: sanding marks up to P1500 disappear in a single pass, deep scratches and etching are pulled out reliably, and the 5\/5 gloss rating leaves a finish that often needs no extra polishing step. For detailers who want to — or have to — work the dual-action only, because the rotary is too risky on certain paints, the EX 05-05 is the cutting compound of choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a cut rating of 5\/5, the EX 05-05 is the most aggressive polish in the SONAX EX line-up. Its abrasive blend is built so it still generates enough cut even at the lower friction energy of dual-action motion, enough to remove deep scratches and sanding marks up to P1500. Paired with the HybridwollPad — a pad that combines foam and lambswool fibres — cutting power climbs noticeably again, because the wool fibres add friction that pure foam pads simply can't deliver.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh gloss at the same time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 5\/5 gloss rating shows the EX 05-05 doesn't just cut, it polishes too. The abrasives break down progressively over the polishing pass — from coarse to fine — and leave a surface that on many paints is already the end result you wanted. When the finish demands the very best, a short pass with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e follows, but for everyday needs the EX 05-05 often does the job as a one-step solution.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is free of silicones and, thanks to its optimised consistency, works almost dust-free. In paint shops the silicone-free build eliminates the contamination risk, and the low-dust working saves time on the clean-up. Especially with heavy defect correction that takes several passes and a lot of polishing work, the low-dust formula makes a real difference in comfort and in how clean your work area stays.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For maximum cut on the dual-action, pair the EX 05-05 with the SONAX HybridwollPad and work at speed 5 to 6 (depending on the machine). Apply moderate pressure and guide the machine across the surface at two to three centimetres per second — clearly slower than when you're finish-polishing. The trick: let the machine do the work and use the weight of the tool as your natural down-pressure. Don't force the machine into the surface — that stalls the dual-action motion and reduces the cut instead of raising it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound for the dual-action — how the EX 05-05 gets rotary results on a DA\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key to the performance of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e lies in the match between abrasive and pad. The abrasive particles are sized to work best at the specific friction energy of a dual-action polisher: big enough for effective cut, small enough for controlled particle break-down. On a rotary these particles would break too fast and lose their cutting power — so the EX 05-05 isn't a universal polish, it's a specialist for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridwollPad amplifies this effect: the lambswool fibres create extra micro-friction on the surface that boosts material removal, while the foam core keeps the heat in check. The result: a cut on the dual-action that gets close to the level of a rotary with a medium-hard foam pad — without the rotary's risks (holograms, hot spots, burning through on edges).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 05-05 plus HybridwollPad combo does have its limits, though: sanding marks of P1000 and coarser can't be fully removed in a single pass on the dual-action, even with this aggressive pairing. Here the rotary with a polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e stays on top. The EX 05-05 covers the range from P1500 down to light P1200 marks — and in that range it gives you a result on the dual-action that makes switching to the rotary unnecessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone who rarely uses their dual-action for heavy-cut, an important note: the performance of the EX 05-05 depends a lot on the quality of the dual-action. Cheap entry-level DAs with a short throw (8 mm) and a weak motor hit their limits fast on heavy defects. Machines with a long throw (15 to 21 mm) like the common pro models deliver far more friction energy and tap the EX 05-05's potential better. If you're planning to do heavy-cut work on the dual-action regularly, the investment in a long-throw machine pays off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the EX 05-05 the right way — pad choice, speed and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full strength paired with the HybridwollPad. For less aggressive jobs — say on near-new paint with only light scratches — a hard foam pad (orange) works too, giving slightly less cut at slightly higher gloss. On a soft finishing pad the compound loses too much cutting power — for pure finish-polishing the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePut three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound over the panel at a low speed. Step up to speed 5 to 6 and work in slow, overlapping passes across the section. A typical section — about half a fender — takes three to four minutes on the dual-action. By the end of the pass the compound should sit clear and thin on the surface — the sign that the abrasives have fully broken down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003emachine handling\u003c\/strong\u003e on the EX 05-05 differs from a finishing polish: with heavy-cut you can apply a bit more pressure than when finish-polishing, but only ever enough that the dual-action motion doesn't come to a stop. The moment you feel the machine stalling or vibrating, take the pressure off straight away. A stalling pad creates localised heat that can cause thermal damage on sensitive paints — showing up as light discolouration or dullness that even re-polishing can no longer fully correct.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you work on \u003cstrong\u003eedges and raised lines\u003c\/strong\u003e, take extra care: the clearcoat there is often only half as thick as on the flats. Drop the pressure clearly in these areas and rather run one extra pass with little pressure than a single pass with too much cut. A coating thickness gauge before you start gives you certainty about the room you've got to work with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the pass, wipe the residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check under LED light. If defects are still visible, repeat the pass on the same section. With the EX 05-05, two to three passes per panel on hard European paints are nothing unusual — on softer Japanese or Korean paints a single pass is often enough. Match your expectations to the paint type and plan in enough time, instead of giving up after one pass when the result isn't right yet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDegrease the polished surface afterwards with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to see the true result. Polishing oils can visually mask leftover defects — under Prepare it becomes clear whether all the scratches have really gone or whether another pass is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action — typical use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main field for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction on paints that are too sensitive for the rotary, or where you prefer the safety of the dual-action. Day-to-day, that comes down to a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're \u003cstrong\u003edetailing dark paints\u003c\/strong\u003e (black, dark blue, dark grey), the dual-action is the safer call, because it throws fewer holograms than the rotary. On these demanding colours the EX 05-05 delivers enough cut to remove scratches and swirls, and the 5\/5 gloss rating keeps the rework to a minimum. On black paint a short finishing pass with the EX 04-06 often makes sense, to pull out that last bit of deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ecars with a thin clearcoat layer\u003c\/strong\u003e — measured with a coating thickness gauge — the dual-action gives you more control over material removal. The EX 05-05 removes defects efficiently, but more controlled than a rotary polish, because the dual-action motion takes off less per unit of time. That gives you the chance to check progress after every pass and stop in time, before the clearcoat gets too thin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal in hard-to-reach spots\u003c\/strong\u003e — door-handle recesses, swage lines, transitions between panels — the compact dual-action with a small pad (75 mm or 125 mm) is a better fit than the big rotary. The EX 05-05 works on all common pad sizes and adapts flexibly to the panel geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more scenario that pro detailers value: \u003cstrong\u003ecorrecting transport damage and car-wash scratches\u003c\/strong\u003e on new vehicles. Plenty of new cars arrive at the dealer with fine to medium scratches — caused by film removal, transport securing or careless cleaning out on the lot. The EX 05-05 removes these defects on the safe dual-action, without putting the thin factory paint at risk. Combined with a final ceramic coating, the car ends up better protected than it was in delivery condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — EX 05-05 vs. CutMax vs. Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe three key cutting compounds in the SONAX PROFILINE range cover different machine types and demands:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the cutting compound for the rotary — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5), optimised for the high friction energy of the rotary. It's the first choice for heavy defects from P1000 up on the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eCut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the one-step solution for the rotary — same cut value as the EX 05-05, but with a high-gloss finish at the same time. It covers the range from P1500 up and combines cutting and finishing in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart to the Cut+Finish for the dual-action: same performance values, but a formula optimised for the kinematics of the DA. If you own a dual-action and want to do heavy defect correction, you reach for the EX 05-05. If you've got a rotary, you take the Cut+Finish or CutMax. A universal polish that works equally well on both machine types doesn't exist — the physical demands of the two motions are too different. That's why SONAX deliberately developed separate product lines for rotary and dual-action with the PROFILINE range, rather than offering compromise products that don't show their full strength on either machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the EX 05-05 — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For the occasional job detailing your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — a full defect correction uses between 50 and 100 ml depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 1000 ml bottle is the more economical option for detailing businesses and keen enthusiasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the optimal workflow for the dual-action, the EX 05-05 is the first step (heavy-cut), followed by the EX 04-06 as the finishing step and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and checking the result. This two-step process on the dual-action gets you results that come close to a three-step process on the rotary — at clearly lower risk of holograms and burn-through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone with both EX-series polishes on the shelf — the EX 05-05 for heavy-cut and the EX 04-06 for finish — is set up for every dual-action job. The two products complement each other perfectly: the EX 05-05 removes the heavy defects, the EX 04-06 pulls out the last bit of gloss. Together they replace a three-product system (cutting paste, cutting compound, finishing polish) of the kind that's standard with the rotary — fewer products, fewer pad changes, fewer things to get wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor economical use: the product consumption of the EX 05-05 on heavy-cut work runs a bit higher than on a finishing polish, because you need more passes per panel. For a full defect correction on the dual-action, count on around 80 to 120 ml per car — depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 250 ml bottle does two to three cars that way, the 1000 ml bottle eight to twelve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne tip for pad care: the HybridwollPad should be cleaned thoroughly after every car — polish residue in the wool fibres hardens and reduces cutting power on the next job. Rinse the pad out under warm water after the work and let it dry fully before you use it again. You can tell a worn-out HybridwollPad by the wool fibres being flattened and no longer springing back — that's when it's time for a new pad. Rather invest in a fresh pad than in an extra polishing pass: the cut of a new pad is noticeably higher than that of a worn one, and the result more even. Professional outfits change the HybridwollPad after five to eight cars at the latest — beyond that the wool structure is so compacted that the cut drops off noticeably and you're no longer getting the full efficiency out of the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520446619983,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410","price":15.79,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520446652751,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000","price":35.58,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446685519,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_2","price":31.58,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446718287,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_3","price":47.37,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446751055,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_2","price":71.16,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446783823,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_3","price":106.74,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut.png?v=1730649133"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound (down to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches and sanding marks with the SONAX CutMax cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CutMax do? A cutting compound with maximum cut (6\/4) that pulls out sanding marks from P1000 grit, deep scratches and paint overspray — low-dust thanks to Low Dust Technology, dialled in for rotary machines.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the paint is hammered badly enough that a normal polish just won't cut it anymore, the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in. With a cut rating of 6 on the SONAX scale, it's the most aggressive polish in the PROFILINE range — built for jobs where you need maximum material removal: deep scratches, P1000 sanding marks, orange peel, paint fog and badly weathered paintwork. Despite that heavy cut, the CutMax works almost dust-free thanks to Low Dust Technology and leaves a gloss level of 4\/5, which in most cases only needs a quick finishing step after it. For body shops and pro detailers, the CutMax is the tool of choice when efficiency on defect removal beats everything else.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut for heavy defects.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasive blend in the CutMax is built for fast, deep cutting. It pulls out sanding marks from P1000 in a single pass — a range lighter polishes simply can't reach. Baked-on bug splatter, deep scratches and years of neglected weathering get cut away just as effectively. That cut saves real time in the bay, because you need fewer passes than with milder products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow Dust Technology for clean work.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a lot of polishes, heavy cut also means heavy dust — a problem that settles into panel gaps, seals and across the whole workspace and needs serious cleanup. The CutMax solves that with its dedicated Low Dust formula: the compound stays on the pad and on the surface through the whole process instead of dusting off. That saves you the cleanup and keeps polishing dust out of freshly painted areas — a critical point in body shops.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGood gloss despite the heavy cut.\u003c\/strong\u003e A gloss level of 4\/5 is remarkable for a cutting compound this aggressive. Plenty of competing products with a comparable cut leave a dull, hazy finish that absolutely needs a finishing step. The CutMax gets much closer to the end result — on a lot of paints a quick pass with a finishing polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e is all it takes to hit showroom gloss.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the CutMax on the rotary with a hard foam pad (white) or a lambswool pad for maximum cut. Start at 1000 rpm to spread the compound out, then take it up to 1500–1800 rpm for the actual cutting. Work in rows with 50 percent overlap and lay down even, moderate pressure — the abrasives need friction, not heavy pressure. After each pass, check with an LED light whether the defects are fully gone before you move to the finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 6\/4 — how the CutMax can take heavy paint defects out in one pass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e hits its high cut through a mix of specially sized abrasive particles and a formula that keeps the cut steady across the whole pass. Unlike basic cutting compounds, whose cut drops off noticeably after the first thirty seconds because the abrasives break down too fast, the CutMax holds its cutting power through the entire work cycle. In practice that means: one pass of two to three minutes per section is enough to fully remove even deep sanding marks — instead of the three or four passes you'd need with a weaker polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gloss level of 4\/5 shows the CutMax isn't a pure cutting paste but a cutting compound with controlled particle breakdown. The abrasives start out aggressive and break down into finer particles over the pass, which already take care of part of the finish. The result is a surface that's noticeably smoother and glossier than after a pure cutting paste — but not yet at the level of a dedicated finishing polish. For shops that need to get to a presentable result fast after wet sanding, that in-between stage is often already enough when concours quality isn't on the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important difference to the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e: the CutMax has the higher cut and comes in where the Cut+Finish doesn't pull enough material anymore — so with P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches and heavy weathering. The Cut+Finish is the one-step solution from P1500, the CutMax is the heavy hammer for everything below that. In a lot of shops both products sit side by side: the Cut+Finish for most of the day-to-day work, the CutMax for the heavy cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a cutting compound right — machine, pad and technique for maximum cut\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full potential on the rotary machine. The pure rotation builds more friction and heat than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy a cutting compound at this level needs to deliver maximum cut. It works on a dual-action machine too, but with a clearly reduced cut: you need more passes and more time for the same result. If you regularly tackle heavy correction, the rotary is the right investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e heavily shapes the result. For maximum cut, go for a hard foam pad (white in the SONAX colour system) or a lambswool pad. The lambswool pad gives the highest cut of all pad types but also leaves the roughest surface — ideal for the first pass on heavy defects, followed by a foam pad for the refinement. A medium pad reduces the cut and suits paints that need less correction, or sensitive areas like edges and creases, where too aggressive a cut could burn through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor application, put three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound across the panel at low speed. Then take it up to working speed and polish in rows with fifty percent overlap. Work in sections of around forty by forty centimetres — small enough to stay in control, big enough to make efficient progress. Listen to the machine: a steady hum tells you the pad is working cleanly on the surface. A rattle or vibration points to too much pressure or a clogged pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the cutting pass, wipe the compound residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED light. If the defects are fully gone, the finishing step follows. If marks are still showing, repeat the pass — better a second controlled pass than a single one with too much pressure that can cause holograms or heat spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common beginner mistake working with the CutMax: too much product on the pad. A cutting compound needs less product than a finishing polish, because the cut comes from the abrasives, not from the volume of paste. Three to four small dots are enough for a section of forty by forty centimetres. Too much product thins out the cutting action, drags out the pass and makes wiping harder. In pro shops, experienced polishers sometimes work with even less product — they make up for the smaller amount with precise machine control that gets the most out of the abrasive that's there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on \u003cstrong\u003eheat control\u003c\/strong\u003e: the rotary builds serious heat when you work with a cutting compound. On dark paints the surface temperature can climb past seventy degrees in a few seconds — a temperature that can damage the clear coat. Check the temperature regularly by running the back of your hand over the surface. When it gets uncomfortably warm, let the section cool briefly before you carry on. On edges, creases and raised lines the heat build-up is especially critical, because the paint layer there is thinner than on flat panels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting heavy paint defects — the ideal use cases for the CutMax\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for the \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction after wet sanding with P1000 to P1200 grit. In the body shop that's the most common use: after a blend-in or spot repair, the transition between new and old paint gets wet sanded, and the CutMax then takes the sanding marks out in a single pass. The compound being silicone-free is key here — in a shop environment where paint goes on every day, there can be no silicone risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ereconditioning badly neglected vehicles\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax shows its strength too. Paints that have been exposed to sun, bird droppings, tree sap and industrial fallout for years build up an oxidised layer that lighter polishes can't get through. The CutMax cuts that layer away efficiently and exposes the undamaged paint underneath. The result is often striking: colours that looked dull and faded show the full depth and brilliance of the original paint again after correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003enew-car reconditioning\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax comes into play too, when the factory paint shows heavy orange peel. A wet sand with P1000 levels the surface, and the CutMax brings the gloss back. This job takes experience, because the clear coat on new vehicles is often thinner than on older paint systems — a paint thickness reading before sanding is a must, so you don't break through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003epartial PPF wraps\u003c\/strong\u003e on front ends the CutMax sometimes comes in indirectly: the paint under the film gets polished before the wrap to clear up any defects that would show through the clear film. The CutMax removes scratches and swirls fast and effectively, and the finishing polish after it leaves a flawlessly smooth base for the film to bond to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the CutMax hits its limits: on scratches that reach down into the base coat or the primer, no polish helps — here you need to respray the affected spot. The CutMax also can't replace clear coat that's already peeling over a large area. In cases like that it's better to be honest with the customer about the limits of polishing than to promise a result you can't reach. Honest communication builds the customer's trust over the long run far more than a cosmetic compromise that shows again after a few weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — CutMax vs. UltimateCut vs. EX 05-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range there are three products in play for heavy defect removal: CutMax, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut (6+\/3)\u003c\/strong\u003e has the highest cut in the whole range — even higher than the CutMax. It's reserved for the most extreme cases: the worst weathering, P800 sanding marks, massive orange peel. The gloss level of 3\/5 shows that after the UltimateCut a finishing step is definitely needed — often even a two-step finish. The UltimateCut is the tool for specialists, not for daily use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits on the other side of the spectrum: the same cut and same gloss as the Cut+Finish, but with a different formula that works better on certain paint systems. It's the alternative for anyone who doesn't get the result they want with the Cut+Finish — for example on particularly hard ceramic clear coats, where the EX series has traditionally been strong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits between these extremes: more cut than the EX 05-05, but a clearly better gloss than the UltimateCut. For the bulk of heavy defect-correction work — wet sanding from P1000, deep scratches, heavy weathering — the CutMax is the optimal choice, because it gets the defect removal done in one step and keeps the finishing step after it short.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the CutMax — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1000 ml and 5 litres. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle corrections and is the ideal entry point for private users and smaller outfits. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops with regular polishing demand. The 5-litre container is aimed at high-throughput businesses — the per-litre price is lowest here, and the wide opening makes it easier to dispense with a dosing bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best polishing workflow we recommend the combination: CutMax as the cutting compound on the rotary, followed by the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the finishing step on the dual-action machine, and finally \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and result check. This three-step combo covers the whole defect-correction process — from heavy cutting to a finish that's ready to seal. Anyone who wants to lay down a long-term sealant afterwards already has the perfect base with Prepare.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn shelf life and storage: like all cutting compounds, the CutMax can separate slightly if it sits for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use until the consistency is homogeneous and creamy again. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen compound loses its abrasive structure and is useless after that. Stored properly, the CutMax keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA closing practical note on the \u003cstrong\u003ecost-effective use\u003c\/strong\u003e in the shop: the CutMax has a higher per-litre price than consumer polishes from the DIY store, but the product consumption per vehicle is much lower. The concentrated formula means you get by with three to four dots per section — a 250 ml bottle lasts for several complete vehicle corrections. Measured by result per euro spent, the CutMax is therefore more economical than cheaper alternatives that need double or triple the product and still take more passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520611148111,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410","price":17.36,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520611180879,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000","price":52.94,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53520611213647,"sku":"D1-SNX-2465000","price":229.43,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611246415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_2","price":34.72,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611279183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_3","price":52.08,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611311951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_2","price":105.88,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611344719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_3","price":158.82,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur.png?v=1730650207"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step","title":"PROFILINE OS \"02-06\" High Gloss Polish with Sealant (One-Step)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHigh Gloss and Sealant in One Step — SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 do? This one-step polish combines fine paint correction with an integrated protective sealant – for high gloss, light swirl removal, and immediate paint protection in a single step, ideal for maintenance detailing and time-efficient detailing workflows.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn everyday detailing, there are situations where an elaborate multi-stage polishing process is neither necessary nor economical: new car detailing with minimal swirl marks, regular maintenance detailing on well-maintained vehicles, or fleet detailing with tight time constraints. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was developed for precisely these scenarios: a professional one-step polish that, in a single step, evens out light polishing marks and swirl marks while simultaneously building up a protective sealant layer. The result: high gloss and paint protection without a separate sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne-Step Technology: Correction and sealing simultaneously.\u003c\/strong\u003e Conventional polishing processes separate paint correction and sealing into separate steps – first polish, then degrease with a panel wipe, then seal. The OS 02-06 combines these steps through a hybrid formula: fine abrasive particles correct minor surface imperfections during polishing, and the integrated sealing polymer forms a protective layer on the freshly smoothed clear coat. Three steps are reduced to one – without compromising the gloss result on suitable vehicles.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine abrasion for light swirl marks and polishing marks.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasiveness of the OS 02-06 is positioned in the middle of the SONAX product scale with “02-06”: fine enough for final polishing steps and one-step applications, yet effective enough to remove light to medium swirl marks. On well-conditioned paints (e.g., hard factory clear coats, newer soft paints in good condition), the OS 02-06 produces a result that is ready for sealing without further processing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIntegrated sealant protection directly after polishing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polymer additive in the one-step formula forms a thin, even protective layer on the clear coat after polishing. This layer increases hydrophobicity, slightly improves the gloss effect, and provides initial protection against moisture, dirt, and UV radiation. The protection is not as durable as a dedicated ceramic or polymer sealant, but it is sufficient for vehicles with short detailing intervals or as a first protective layer after basic preparation.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The OS 02-06 achieves its best results with a combination pad (medium-hard foam pads or combination microfiber pads), which effectively transfers the fine abrasive particles and simultaneously distributes the sealing polymer evenly on the surface. For rotary polishers, set the machine speed to 4–5 for the correction phase, and reduce it to 2–3 for the final finishing pass to evenly polish out the sealing polymer. Important: If a full ceramic coating is to be applied after the OS 02-06, first degrease with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e – the sealing polymer of the OS 02-06 must be removed before a new coating to avoid compromising adhesion. For vehicles treated only with the OS 02-06, this step is not necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-Step Polish Technology — Correction and Sealant Combined in One Formula\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe technical uniqueness of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e lies in combining two normally incompatible functions in one formula: abrasive polishing and protective layer build-up. For a pure correction polish, it is important that the formula contains no waxy or polymeric components that would get between the abrasive particles and the paint surface and reduce the polishing effect. For a pure sealant, on the other hand, no abrasion should be present that would immediately destroy the freshly applied protective layer. The OS 02-06 resolves this contradiction through specifically matched particle sizes and an optimized formulation approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finely ground abrasive particles of the OS 02-06 are dimensioned to exert their corrective action during the active polishing phase (when the pad is guided over the surface with pressure and speed). When the polish is buffed out (less pressure, lower speed), the remaining polymer components of the formula lay down a uniform film on the cleaned surface. This sequential principle – first abrasion, then protective layer formation – enables the combination of both functions in one product without them interfering with each other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe sealing component of the OS 02-06 is designed as short-term protection that lasts for several months but is not comparable to a full polymer or ceramic coating. For vehicles that are regularly detailed (every 3–6 months) and where durable protection via ceramic coating is not the goal, this level of protection is sufficient. For vehicles where maximum sealant durability is the goal, the two-step approach (OS 02-06 or \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e for polishing, then panel wipe and dedicated sealant) remains the first choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying OS 02-06 Correctly — Pad Selection, Machine, and Workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOptimal application of the one-step polish begins with pad selection: For the OS 02-06, combination pads or slightly abrasive foam pads are recommended, as they effectively support the correction component and evenly distribute the sealing component. Pure finishing pads (very soft pads without inherent abrasion) significantly reduce the corrective performance of the OS 02-06 – if the focus is on swirl removal, a combination pad is the better choice. Very hard or abrasive pads, on the other hand, increase corrective performance but can over-work the sealing polymer and produce an uneven result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine guidance: Begin one-step polishing at medium speed (4–5 on an eccentric polisher) and normal polishing pressure. First, spread the polish on the pad, then guide it over the surface with overlapping passes – typically 2–3 passes for complete swirl removal. For the final pass, reduce speed and pressure to finally and evenly polish the sealing polymer into the paint surface. The wipe-off step with a clean microfiber towel should occur when the polish on the paint transitions to a whitish-matte phase – this is the optimal time to wipe off the sealing component.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for results control: After polishing, check the area under angled artificial light for remaining swirl marks. The OS 02-06 completely removes light swirl marks and significantly reduces medium swirl marks – deep scratches and heavy holograms will remain visible with a one-step polish and require a multi-stage process with a more aggressive correction step. One-step polish is not a substitute for multi-stage correction on heavily damaged paints, but rather the right tool for paints where the degree of damage does not require deeper correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication Areas of OS 02-06 — When One-Step Polish is the Right Choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e optimally covers several typical detailing scenarios in professional detailing operations. New vehicle preparation: New vehicles arrive with manufacturing-related transport protection residues and fine holograms from factory polishing, but without deeper swirl marks or scratches. The OS 02-06 removes these fine surface imperfections in one step and leaves the paint ready for sealing – an economical and time-efficient solution for new vehicle preparation before delivery.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaintenance preparation and regular care: Vehicles that are detailed every few months and have only accumulated light, everyday swirl marks benefit from the one-step efficiency of the OS 02-06. Instead of polishing the surface first, then degreasing, and then sealing, everything is done in one pass. For businesses with high vehicle throughput, this means significant time savings per vehicle – with consistently good results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDealer preparation and stock vehicles: Used car dealerships and lease returns with manageable paint damage (everyday scratches, light swirls from washing) are a classic application area. The OS 02-06 enables quick, qualitatively convincing preparation that makes the vehicle significantly more attractive for sale, without requiring the time investment of a full multi-stage preparation. The sealing polymer in the OS 02-06 also protects the paint from environmental influences during storage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOS 02-06 in Comparison — One-Step vs. Multi-Stage Polish and OS 04-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range, there are two one-step polishes for different requirements. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-os-04-05-hochglanz-politur-one-step\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 04-05\u003c\/a\u003e is the more aggressive one-step polish with a higher abrasive grade (04-05 on the SONAX scale) – it is designed for paints with medium to heavier swirl marks where the OS 02-06 does not provide sufficient correction. The OS 04-05 does not contain an integrated sealing component and is positioned as a pure correction product that subsequently requires a separate sealing step. The choice between the two depends on the extent of paint damage: light swirls and maintenance detailing → OS 02-06; medium to heavier swirls → OS 04-05 followed by a separate sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to multi-stage polishing (heavy correction stage + finishing polish + panel wipe + sealant), the one-step polish naturally falls short on heavily damaged paints: it cannot remove deep scratches that require a heavy polishing stage, and the integrated sealant protection is not as durable as a dedicated ceramic coating. For vehicles with this level of damage, we recommend the multi-stage process with the NP 03-06 as the finishing polish. The advantage of the OS 02-06 lies in time savings and efficiency for low to medium-low damage levels – used on the right vehicle, it delivers a professional result that impresses customers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers who want to cover both scenarios, we recommend the OS 02-06 as the standard one-step for the majority of incoming vehicles (which are in normal condition) and the OS 04-05 as a reserve for more heavily damaged paints. This two-tier polishing workflow, based on the degree of damage, is a professional approach that maximizes both result quality and operational efficiency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePurchasing SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 — Sizes and Recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is available in 250 ml and 1 liter sizes, as well as in 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml container is ideal for beginners who want to get to know the product, or for use on small areas (individual panels, hood, roof). The 1-liter container is the most economical choice for regular users and professional businesses – approximately 15–25 ml are needed per vehicle application, depending on pad size and vehicle size, so one liter is sufficient for approximately 40–65 complete vehicle applications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS 02-06 is particularly recommended for businesses that offer high-quality, time-efficient detailing as a standard service and want to rely on a product that combines correction and protection. For car washes and quick detailing services with limited time, the one-step formula is economically attractive. Even for private users who maintain their vehicles themselves and are looking for a simple process without a stack of chemicals, the OS 02-06 is an uncomplicated solution for a complete detailing in one step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn summary, the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 is the optimal tool for all situations where time and efficiency matter, without compromising paint correction and protection. Anyone who wants to combine professional gloss and immediate paint protection on a vehicle with a good initial condition will find the most effective solution in the OS 02-06 from the SONAX PROFILINE polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520769352015,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410","price":8.32,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520769384783,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000","price":22.7,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520769417551,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410_2","price":16.64,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520769450319,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410_3","price":24.96,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520769483087,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000_2","price":45.4,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520769515855,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000_3","price":68.1,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step.png?v=1730651051"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur","title":"PROFILINE GlassPolish Glass Polish (Cerium Oxide Chemical-Mechanical)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove scratches and spots from glass chemically and mechanically — SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish do? This cerium oxide glass polish removes scratches, water spots, streaks and oxidation from windscreens and vehicle glass chemically and mechanically — for a clear view and streak-free glass without heavy sanding work.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eScratched windscreens, baked-in water spots and oxidation on vehicle glass are more than a cosmetic flaw — they cut your view in rain, low sun and at night, and that can get dangerous. Normal glass cleaners lift loose dirt, but they do nothing about scratches worked into the surface or mineral deposits chemically baked on. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e solves that with a chemical-mechanical approach: cerium oxide, an abrasive made specifically for glass, polishes the surface on a microscopic level and pulls out surface scratches, water spots and that oxidised film — what you get is optically clear, streak-free glass with maximum light transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCerium oxide technology for glass surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Cerium oxide is an abrasive developed specifically for glass, and it has a unique dual property: mechanical micro-abrasion for physical scratch removal, plus chemical activity at the glass silicon-dioxide surface that makes the polish work better than purely mechanical alternatives. That chemical-mechanical interplay is exactly why cerium oxide polishes are the go-to method in optics and vehicle glass refinishing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulls out scratches, water spots and wiper marks.\u003c\/strong\u003e Windscreens typically pick up fine scratch marks from wiper blades dragging sand particles along — those wiper marks show up in rain and low sun as annoying light scatter. Mineral water spots and limescale deposits on the glass hurt optical clarity and bond chemically to the surface. The GlassPolish clears both types of problem and brings back the glass's original clarity.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFor windscreen, side windows and rear screen.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cerium oxide polish suits every piece of vehicle glass: windscreen (the biggest gain in visibility), side windows (scratches from raising the glass through dirty guide channels), rear screen (wiper marks from rain off the tailgate). It also works on glass headlight lenses and plastic headlight covers — here, pair it with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e for the best results.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before you polish the glass, clean the pane thoroughly — dirt and sand on the surface during polishing will lay down fresh scratches. Pre-clean with a microfibre cloth and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e. Lay the GlassPolish onto the damp pane with a sponge or applicator cloth and work it in with circular motions — a slightly damp surface spreads the cerium oxide more evenly than dry glass does. For stubborn wiper marks, work with a polishing machine and a foam pad — polishing by hand is plenty for light spots and water marks, but for deeper scratches a machine gives you a hand. After polishing, rinse the area with clean water and buff it off with a clean microfibre cloth — the result shows up straight away in how clear the glass reads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCerium oxide technology: how the glass polish regenerates glass surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCerium oxide (CeO₂) is a rare-earth metal oxide that has been used in glass optics and glass processing as an abrasive and polishing agent for precision glass for decades. What makes it so well suited to glass comes down to a chemical-mechanical dual action: on one hand, cerium oxide has a specific hardness (Mohs scale ~6) that is ideal for glass (Mohs ~5–6) — hard enough for abrasion, but not so hard that it lays down fresh deep scratches. On the other, cerium oxide reacts chemically with the silicon dioxide of the glass surface and forms temporary cerium-silicate compounds during polishing that boost the polishing effect on a molecular level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat dual action explains why cerium oxide polishes treat glass surfaces far more effectively than purely mechanical abrasives: the chemical activity etches the silicon-dioxide surface of the glass on a microscopic level, which together with the mechanical abrasion creates a \"reflow\" effect — tiny scratches aren't just sanded away, the glass matrix flows slightly and fills the finest cracks. That's why, after a cerium oxide polish, scratches look gone that were really only \"rounded off\" or filled in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e uses this principle in a formulation tuned for vehicle work: the cerium oxide particles are suspended in a suitable carrier liquid that ensures even spread and enough lubrication. That keeps excess friction heat down during polishing and protects the pane from uneven removal. At the same time, the formula is built so it rinses off residue-free after polishing — no whitish cerium oxide film stays on the pane that could hurt optical clarity once you're done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the glass polish the right way — from prep to result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with the glass polish follows a clear workflow that breaks down into prep, polishing and finishing. Prep matters especially with glass polishing: any speck of dirt on the pane that gets between the applicator and the glass during polishing makes fresh scratches — a mistake that gives you exactly the opposite of what you wanted. Wash the pane thoroughly with glass cleaner, rinse with clean water and dry with a clean microfibre cloth. Mask off the edge seals and paint around the pane with masking tape — cerium oxide on paint leaves streaks that are hard to get off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolishing by hand: put GlassPolish on a sponge or applicator cloth, lay it onto the damp glass and work it in with circular motions. Medium pressure, even movement — don't let it dry, top up with a damp cloth or a little water if you need to. The visible sign it's working: the abrasive film clears up as you go and runs less — that tells you the cerium oxide particles are working the surface. After 3–5 minutes of polishing, take the product off with a damp microfibre cloth and check the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolishing by machine: for more stubborn wiper marks or deeper scratches, reach for a polishing machine with a foam pad. Low speed (setting 2–3), light pressure — glass is more sensitive than paint and reacts faster to excess friction heat. Work in sections (max. 30×30 cm), don't dwell too long on one spot. After each pass, check the result in the light — look through the pane against the light to spot any leftover scratches and streaks. Depending on how deep the scratches run, a second pass may be needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlass polish use cases — typical glass problems and how to fix them\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e tackles a range of typical glass problems that show up on vehicles in everyday use. Wiper marks are the most common job: wiper blades dragging sand particles along make fine scratch marks in the windscreen glass — you'll spot them as light scatter in rain and low sun. These scratches are usually very fine and respond well to one or two passes of the cerium oxide polish. One thing to watch: after the glass polish, check the wiper rubber for damage and replace it if needed, since old wiper rubbers will just start the wiper-marking all over again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStubborn water spots and limescale deposits on the glass are the second most common job. Limescale from hard water that has dried onto the pane can first be loosened chemically with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-waterspot-remover-wasserfleckenentferner-kalkentferner\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/a\u003e — in stubborn cases, where the limescale has already attacked the glass surface, the GlassPolish follows as the mechanical step to polish out the remaining haze in the glass. This combined approach (chemical first, then mechanical) is far more effective on heavy limescale damage than mechanical polishing alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOxidation film on glass (a yellowish or dull layer that absorbs light) builds up from UV exposure and chemical reactions on the glass surface — especially on vehicles that sit in the sun for long stretches or run in industrial settings. Normal glass cleaners won't shift this film, but it responds well to the cerium oxide polish. After treatment, the glass reads noticeably clearer and scatters far less light in low sun and at night — a direct safety gain for the driver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlassPolish compared — when chemical, when mechanical, when both?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn glass refinishing there are different product strategies you should pick by problem type and intensity. Purely chemical approaches (like the SONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover) are ideal for mineral deposits and light limescale, without removing any of the glass surface mechanically — that method is fast and risk-free, but it does nothing against mechanical scratches. The GlassPolish, as a chemical-mechanical product, is the right call when there are scratches or streaks alongside the spots that need mechanical work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst wet-sanding paper (e.g. P2000 or P3000 wet polish for glass), the GlassPolish has a clear edge: the cerium oxide formula is less aggressive and leaves a finer surface after treatment that doesn't need a follow-up fine polish. Wet-sanding paper removes deeper scratches more efficiently, but leaves sanding marks that then have to be levelled out with a cerium oxide polish. For typical vehicle glass problems (wiper marks, limescale, light oxidation) the GlassPolish is the most direct and gentlest solution — without needing a multi-step sanding process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a finishing step after the glass polish, a glass sealant is worth it — it protects the polished surface and adds water repellency through a lotus effect — the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-glass-scheibenversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Glass\u003c\/a\u003e gives you long-term protection here, and the hydrophobic properties improve wiper performance and visibility in rain while cutting future water spots right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish — sizes and use in a professional workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml (single bottle) and as a 2x 250 ml set. The 250 ml bottle goes a long way over many glass-polishing jobs when used properly — cerium oxide polishes go on in fairly small amounts, since too much product on the pane just makes more work taking it off without improving the polishing effect. For detailing shops that regularly run vehicles with glass refinishing in the programme, the 2-pack is the more economical pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe glass polish also suits use on glass headlight lenses made of glass (not for plastic headlights — use the dedicated \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e there). On glass domes, clear glass covers and optical glass components, the cerium oxide polish works too — but always go careful on already-coated or treated glass surfaces, which the abrasion could damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the GlassPolish is the must-have tool for anyone after clear, scratch-free vehicle glass as part of a professional refinishing standard. The chemical-mechanical cerium oxide technology delivers results no other product type gets this efficiently — and the direct effect on driving safety through better visibility makes glass polishing one of the refinishing steps with the highest practical payoff for the vehicle owner.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53521078616399,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410","price":21.13,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521078649167,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410_2","price":42.26,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521078681935,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410_3","price":63.39,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur_250ml.png?v=1730653450"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur","title":"PROFILINE HeadlightPolish Headlight Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRestore yellowed headlights and bring them back clear — SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish do? This dedicated headlight polish strips UV-driven yellowing, oxidation layers and fine scratches off polycarbonate headlights — and brings back the original clarity and light transmission like a pro.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYellowed and oxidised headlights are one of the most common cosmetic issues on cars five years and older: UV light slowly breaks down the outer protective layer of the polycarbonate headlights, the surface oxidises and yellows, and light transmission drops measurably. That doesn't just hurt the look of the car — it hurts road safety too, because clouded headlights cut the reach of the beam. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro headlight polish for mechanically reconditioning these headlight surfaces: abrasive enough to pull off yellowing and oxidation, fine enough to leave a clear, scratch-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStrips yellowing and UV oxidation off polycarbonate surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polycarbonate, the material modern car headlights are made of, is light and impact-resistant but UV-sensitive: without an intact UV protective layer the surface oxidises into a yellowy, cloudy, matte film that scatters light instead of letting it through. The HeadlightPolish pulls that oxidation layer off with fine abrasive polishing and exposes the clear polycarbonate underneath — the result is a headlight that looks and works like new.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine abrasion for clear, transparent results without scratches.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polycarbonate headlights are softer than car paint and react to overly coarse abrasion with new scratches that hurt clarity just as much. The HeadlightPolish is dialled in for the specific demands of headlight reconditioning: fine abrasive particles that take off the yellowing and light scratches without cutting new, deep marks that you'd have to polish out again.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks by hand or by machine.\u003c\/strong\u003e The HeadlightPolish formula is built to run both on a polisher (dual-action or rotary with a small pad) and by hand with an applicator. By hand you can work small headlights, headlights with tricky geometry and on-the-spot touch-ups well — for bigger or heavily oxidised headlights the machine is more efficient and gives a more even result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e On heavily yellowed headlights a multi-step job is the way to go: first wet-sand the worst of the oxidised crud with fine sandpaper (P1000–P2000) to take the oxidised layer off evenly, then polish it out with the HeadlightPolish to remove the sanding marks and bring up the gloss. For that full process the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-scheinwerferaufbereitungsset-aufbereitungsset\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Headlight Reconditioning Set\u003c\/a\u003e is the way to go — it packs all the materials you need including the sandpapers. After polishing, always lay down a UV protective sealant — without protection the headlights yellow again within 6–18 months. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightCoating \"CC\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the ceramic sealant for lasting UV protection after the polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolycarbonate chemistry — how the HeadlightPolish removes headlight yellowing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe way the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e works comes down to mechanical micro-abrasion that takes the oxidised, yellowed polycarbonate surface off layer by layer. Chemically, the oxidation layer on yellowed headlights is a photodegradation layer — UV light breaks the polymer chain bonds in the polycarbonate and forms carbonyl groups, which cause the yellow discolouration. That layer sits on the top micrometres of the polycarbonate and can be cut off by abrasion without touching the material underneath.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive particles in the HeadlightPolish are tuned for polycarbonate surfaces: polycarbonate is noticeably softer than tempered glass or car paint and reacts faster to abrasion. Particles that are too coarse would cut deep marks into the clear material that hurt light transmission just as much as the original yellowing. The HeadlightPolish uses finely ground abrasive particles that take the layer off in a controlled way and leave a polished, clear surface. The result depends on how far the yellowing and oxidation have gone: lightly yellowed headlights come fully clear with a single polish, heavily yellowed or deeply eroded headlights need several passes or a wet-sanding step first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn important point in headlight reconditioning is understanding the layer structure: new headlights have a factory-applied UV protective layer (hardcoating) that shields the polycarbonate from UV light. Over time that protective layer breaks down, and the unprotected polycarbonate starts to oxidise. The HeadlightPolish removes the oxidation layer, but not the underlying problem: the freshly polished polycarbonate has no UV protection after the polish, and without a new protective layer it will yellow again. That's why the combo of HeadlightPolish (the polish) and a UV-resistant sealant is the complete reconditioning concept for headlights that stay clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe clarity and light transmission of a freshly reconditioned headlight can make the difference in TÜV-relevant terms: headlights that have lost more than 50% of their light transmission to extreme yellowing can be flagged as defects at a roadworthiness inspection. A professional headlight reconditioning doesn't just bring back the look — it also has practical relevance for vehicle safety and registration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the HeadlightPolish right — hand polishing and machine work\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the headlight polish starts with prep: wash and dry the headlight thoroughly to get rid of grit and coarse dirt particles that would scratch during polishing. Mask off the adjacent paint with painter's tape, since the HeadlightPolish abrades clear coat too — and that's a pain to fix afterwards. Check the headlight for scratches and how deep any cracks run: surface scratches polish out, but deep cracks or internal headlight damage can't be fixed by polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy hand: lay the HeadlightPolish onto an applicator or a soft microfibre cloth. Work even circular motions with medium pressure across the whole headlight face — dwell time matters less here than the mechanical action from pressure and movement. By hand you'll need several passes to get the same result you'd get from one machine pass. The hand method works especially well on smaller headlights or for spot work (single blemishes or local oxidation patches) where a machine is less precise.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy machine: run a small pad (65–80 mm) on a dual-action or rotary polisher (speed 3–4) with even, light pressure across the headlight face. The curved geometry of most headlights calls for a flexible pad that follows the shape, and controlled pad guidance to avoid uneven edge pressure. After the machine pass, buff off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result in raking light for any leftover sanding marks or haze. Do a second pass if needed, especially on heavily yellowed headlights.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the HeadlightPolish earns its keep — when headlight reconditioning makes sense\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA professional headlight reconditioning with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e pays off in plenty of situations. The most common case is sprucing up the look of cars five years and older that have lost their appeal to UV yellowing. In the used-car trade, headlight reconditioning is one of the most cost-effective upgrades going: a professional job takes 20–30 minutes per car, uses little material and lifts the look of the car a lot — an effort that pays for itself fast in the asking price.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs part of a full detail, headlight reconditioning is a quality signal: a car with clear, freshly reconditioned headlights next to high-gloss paint reads as overall coherence and craftsmanship. Plenty of customers value it when a detailer looks after this detail too, and take it as a marker for the quality of the whole job. Offering headlight reconditioning as an add-on service is, for that reason, a worthwhile addition to a detailer's line-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn fleet and commercial vehicles, headlight reconditioning matters for safety: van fleets that run a lot at night or in poor visibility benefit from maximum headlight brightness. Regular headlight care as part of a fleet maintenance plan extends the service life of the headlights and pushes back the point where a costly headlight replacement becomes necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe HeadlightPolish in the product system — polish, sealant and reconditioning set\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX PROFILINE headlight care range, several products work together into a complete reconditioning concept. The HeadlightPolish handles the mechanical correction work — it pulls off the oxidation layer and brings the headlight up to high-gloss transparency. After polishing, a protective sealant is a must to lock the result in for the long haul. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightCoating \"CC\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the ceramic UV protective sealant that shields the freshly polished polycarbonate from renewed UV degradation and stretches the durability of the result out to several years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that want to offer headlight reconditioning as a full service, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-scheinwerferaufbereitungsset-aufbereitungsset\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Headlight Reconditioning Set\u003c\/a\u003e is a handy all-in-one: it holds all the materials for the full process — sandpapers for the pre-step on heavily yellowed headlights, the HeadlightPolish for the polishing phase, and the HeadlightCoating for the final UV protection. For shops bringing this service in fresh, the set shortens the learning curve and takes the guesswork out of picking materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with third-party headlight cleaning products, the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish brings the advantage of a matched product system: the polish formula is built so that the polycarbonate ends up with an optimal surface for the HeadlightCoating after reconditioning — no residue, no incompatibility with the sealant polymer. In-system compatibility matters especially with headlights, since poor or insufficient bonding of the protective layer leads to quick flaking and so to a short-term win with no lasting effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml as well as a 2-pack and a 3-pack. The 250 ml size is the right one for one-off and occasional users: a pair of headlights typically takes 10–20 ml, so the 250 ml bottle is good for 12–25 full headlight jobs. For detailing shops running several cars a week, the 3-pack is the most economical option and keeps you stocked for longer without frequent reorders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe HeadlightPolish is well worth keeping as a fixed part of the service line-up for any shop that offers detailing across the board. Headlight reconditioning is a service plenty of customers actively ask for, and one that delivers a measurable value bump to the car — both in looks and in function. The combo of HeadlightPolish and HeadlightCoating as a complete headlight service is an attractive add-on that lifts the margin per detail without much extra work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish is the right product for anyone who wants to recondition yellowed and oxidised headlights like a pro. This professional headlight polish from the PROFILINE range is dialled in for polycarbonate surfaces, delivers clear and transparent results, and is the first step of a complete headlight reconditioning process that's finished off with the HeadlightCoating.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53521230889295,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410","price":13.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521230922063,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410_2","price":27.34,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521230954831,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410_3","price":41.01,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur_250ml.png?v=1730655082"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE FS \"05-04\" cutting compound","description":"\u003c!-- BLOCK 1: body_html --\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eUsed-car paint correction with heavy cut — SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 do? This medium-aggressive cutting compound rated 5\/4 (cut\/gloss) pulls out sanding marks down to P1500 sandpaper, normal paint weathering and light scratches — silicone-free, low-dust and with solid gloss after a single pass.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn used-car prep, efficiency is everything: one pass that both corrects and builds gloss saves time and product. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e is built exactly for that job — a medium-aggressive cutting compound with a cut grade of 5 and a solid gloss grade of 4 in the SONAX rating system. It's made for restoring normally weathered, lightly scratched paint, takes out sanding marks down to P1500 grit, and leaves a clean gloss that in many cases needs no second finishing pass. That makes the FS 05-04 a workhorse for the daily grind — especially where lots of cars need to be turned around economically and reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy cut with a solid gloss build at the same time.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a cut grade of 5, the FS 05-04 sits in the upper-middle of the SONAX PROFILINE compounds — aggressive enough to reliably pull out nagging sanding marks down to P1500, oxidation layers and fine-to-medium scratches. At the same time, the gloss grade of 4 leaves a clean, even paint gloss after the work — often good enough as the final result in used-car prep. That combination cuts the total number of polishing steps you need and pushes up the profit per car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free, low-dust and odourless — professional working properties.\u003c\/strong\u003e The silicone-free formula guards against fish-eyes in later refinish work and makes the FS 05-04 a safe pick in a body-shop setting, where cars may go on to more bodywork after polishing. The low-dust behaviour keeps the working surface clean, makes the wipe-down easier and protects both the machine and the adjacent panel areas. The odourless character improves working comfort — especially in enclosed halls or when you're working through bigger batches of cars.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for use with variable-speed polishing machines.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FS 05-04 formula is dialled in for variable-speed rotary polishers — a machine type widely used in the pro world that delivers high cutting power and even material removal. The paste shows its best behaviour at medium-to-higher speeds: reliable cut in the first phase, a controllable break-down point, and clean gloss as you work it out. It also works on dual-action machines, though the cut sits a touch lower there because of the lower downforce and different motion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For used-car prep with the FS 05-04 we'd run it like this for repeatable results: work it panel by panel with a medium-firm foam pad on a rotary — 900–1200 rpm for normal cutting, stepping up to 1500 rpm for stubborn sanding marks. Lay the paste down thin over roughly a 50×50 cm working area, spread it slowly first, then work it out until the paste turns clear. Always do a test patch first — especially on unknown cars with possibly repainted panels or thin clearcoat. After the FS 05-04, one pass with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e as a finishing polish is usually enough for a mirror-smooth high-gloss finish. On normally weathered paint without deep scratches, the FS 05-04 can often be run as a stand-alone solution too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE rating system — what 05-04 means and why it's key to picking the right compound\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX rates every PROFILINE compound on one consistent two-digit system: the first number is cutting power (abrasiveness), the second is gloss ability — each on a scale from 1 (minimal) to 6 (maximal). This system lets you place a product in your polishing workflow fast and clearly, without digging through the full product description. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e stands for a mix of high cutting power (5) and good, if not maximal, gloss ability (4) — the classic profile of a compound that corrects paint defects while leaving a presentable gloss behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practical terms, cut grade 5 means: the abrasive particles in the FS 05-04 are big and hard enough to reliably pull out normally weathered paint (oxidation, dull spots, baked-in dirt particles) and sanding marks down to P1500 grit. P1500 is a typical grit for wet-sanding as prep before polishing — if you've got to polish out wet-sanding marks, the FS 05-04 has you covered. At the same time, cut grade 5 stays controllable — with the right machine setup and technique, the risk of burning through the clearcoat stays manageable even on thinner paint, as long as you know the material's limits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGloss grade 4 means: once the cutting compound is worked out, a clean, even gloss is left on the paint — clearly better than the untouched, oxidised starting state, but still with a faint hologram haze that shows up under direct light. That hologram haze is the typical signature of a compound, and it comes out fully with a finishing pass (say the NP 03-06 or the PerfectFinish). In used-car prep — where the end result often isn't inspected under studio lighting — gloss grade 4 is enough as the final result in many cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FS 05-04 right — machine setup, foam pad and workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eFS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e right starts with machine choice: for the best results, a variable-speed rotary polisher is the ideal tool. Rotaries generate high surface heat through their circular spin and a controllable material removal — ideal conditions for the FS 05-04's cutting particles. Recommended speed ranges: 900–1200 rpm for normal used-car prep (oxidation, weathering, fine scratches), 1200–1500 rpm for more stubborn sanding marks after P1500 wet-sanding. Higher speeds improve cutting power but also raise the heat input — a trade-off that takes experience.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFoam pad choice: for the FS 05-04, a medium-firm foam pad (medium-cut pad) works best — soft finishing pads kill the cut too much, while very hard wool or microfibre pads push the cut up further, which can be risky on unknown paint. A proven middle ground is a yellow-orange foam pad in the medium hardness range, which gets the most out of the FS 05-04 without removing more material than you need. On dual-action machines (DA machines) you can pick a slightly harder pad to make up for the lower downforce of the DA action.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep-by-step workflow: 1. Clean the paint (pre-foam, iron remover, tar remover), 2. Measure paint thickness (a paint depth gauge is recommended on unknown cars), 3. Work a test patch (one panel per side to dial in the machine setup), 4. Work panel by panel (roughly 40×50 cm working areas), 5. Check the result under low LED light (to make holograms show up), 6. If needed, a finishing pass with the NP 03-06 or PerfectFinish, 7. Seal the paint (polymer sealant or ceramic coating). Wipe the FS 05-04 off with a clean microfibre buffing cloth once it's worked out — don't let it dry and then scrub it hard, since dried compound residue can damage the clean finished surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eImportant note on paint temperature: the FS 05-04 should be worked on paint surfaces between 15–30 °C. Paint that's too cold (under 10 °C) stops the abrasive particles from working in evenly; paint that's too hot (direct sun, summer heat) lets the paste dry out too fast and makes working it out harder. In summer, work in the hall or in the early morning hours.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsed-car upgrading with the FS 05-04 — typical damage profiles and results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe main use case for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e is professional used-car upgrading: cars with two to ten years of use, whose paint has lost its original gloss to UV exposure, wash-bay contact, mechanical effects and weather. Typical damage profiles where the FS 05-04 works best: oxidised, dull paint with a gloss haze; water spots that won't come off with a normal wash; fine-to-medium scratches from improper cleaning (car-wash damage, wipe marks); sanding marks after wet-sanding down to P1500 as prep for deep-scratch removal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the FS 05-04 can't do: deep scratches that reach into the basecoat or primer can't be fully removed by polishing — polishing doesn't add material, it takes it off. If you want to remove heavy impact marks, parking dings or deep-running scratches, you've got to either prep with much coarser sandpaper (P800–P1200) and start with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e for the heavy cut, before bringing in the FS 05-04 for the fine correction. This multi-stage approach is everyday practice at the used-car dealer or in the pro detailing shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicle fleets and used-car dealers with high throughput, the FS 05-04 in the 5-litre container is especially economical: a consistent, repeatable result across many cars, combined with low paste use per panel (typically 3–5 ml for a 40×50 cm working area), makes the 5-litre container a cost-efficient tool in daily operation. On show and display cars, where the visual condition directly affects the asking price, running the FS 05-04 as a standard prep step is a sensible investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFS 05-04 in comparison — where it sits in the SONAX PROFILINE compound range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE compound range has a matched solution for every use case. Placing the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e in the range is directly comparable through the rating system: if you need an even more aggressive cut for deeper scratches or wet-sanding from P1000, you grab the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut 6+\/3\u003c\/a\u003e (cut grade 6+, gloss grade 3) — the highest abrasiveness in the range, but lower gloss ability that always needs a finishing pass. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax 6\/4\u003c\/a\u003e sits with cut grade 6 and gloss grade 4 between the UltimateCut and the FS 05-04 — also for aggressive corrections, but with a touch better gloss than the UltimateCut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe FS 05-04 at 5\/4 is the compromise product for the typical prep job — cut high enough for most used-car damage profiles, gloss good enough to skip a finishing pass in many cases. For people who want even better gloss alongside a solid cut, the PROFILINE Cut+Finish 5\/5 is an interesting alternative: same cut as the FS 05-04, but one step better gloss ability (5 instead of 4) — though at a higher price per litre. The choice between the FS 05-04 and the Cut+Finish comes down to whether you want to skip the final finishing pass regularly or not.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a follow-up polish after the FS 05-04, two picks make sense depending on the result you want: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e (cut grade 3, gloss grade 6) for a quick finishing pass with maximum gloss, or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish 4\/6\u003c\/a\u003e for cases where structured rework is still needed after wet-sanding. Both finishing polishes work the FS 05-04's holograms out fully and prep the paint for a final sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 — container sizes, target audience and bottom line\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three container sizes: 250 ml for first use, the test in the shop or the occasional single-car job; 1 litre as the standard container for regular prep of small-to-medium car volumes; and 5 litres for used-car dealers, car rental firms and detailing businesses with high throughput. Pick the container size based on how often you'll actually use it — compounds have a limited shelf life once opened, and an oversized container that sits in the shop for years loses effectiveness as the emulsion separates and dries out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho the FS 05-04 is for: professional vehicle detailers focused on the used-car business, dealers and shops that take cars in part-exchange and visually upgrade them before resale; car-wash businesses with a prep service; detailing studios after an economical compound for standard correction jobs, without having to set up a multi-stage polish for every car. For home users who want to prep their car once a year, the 250 ml container is enough — though running a rotary machine is a must to reach the specified cutting power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 is the right cutting compound when you want to correct in one pass and land a presentable gloss result. The mix of cut grade 5 and gloss grade 4, the silicone-free, low-dust formula, plus the choice of three container sizes make it a versatile tool in the daily polishing grind. If you want a product that runs economically, safely and repeatably in used-car prep, the FS 05-04 is a solid, proven solution.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57344960790863,"sku":"D1-SNX-3193000","price":34.72,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344960823631,"sku":"D1-SNX-3195000","price":158.27,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04_250ml.png?v=1774730669"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-sp-06-02-schleif-politur-heavy-cut","title":"PROFILINE SP \"06-02\" Sanding Polish (Heavy-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemoving Deep Scratches, Sanding Marks, and Overspray with SONAX PROFILINE SP \"06-02\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can SONAX PROFILINE SP \"06-02\" do? The silicone-free heavy-cut abrasive polish with an abrasive grade of 6 removes sanding marks up to P1200, overspray, etching, and deeply embedded scratches on all paints — as the first step in a professional polishing workflow.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint detailing, there's no \"one-size-fits-all\" polish. A high-quality multi-step workflow divides the work: first, a heavy-cut polish removes severe defects, then a finish polish refines the result until the paint is free of sanding marks and achieves maximum gloss. This is exactly the role of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02\u003c\/strong\u003e as the first and most powerful step — a silicone-free abrasive polish with an abrasive grade of 6, developed for use with a rotary polishing machine. It removes sanding marks from wet sanding processes up to P1200, overspray, etching caused by bird droppings, insects, and tree sap, as well as heavily weathered single-stage paints. The SONAX PROFILINE SP polishing system is firmly established in the professional paint detailing sector: the clearly defined abrasive and gloss levels allow for precise planning of a multi-step workflow, where each polish performs exactly what it was developed for — and the SP \"06-02\" is the strongest and most abrasive tool in the entire set. It represents the first, crucial step, without which subsequent refining steps would not be able to unfold their effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAbrasive grade 6 for defects that other polishes cannot tackle.\u003c\/strong\u003e Deeply embedded scratches, sanding marks after wet sanding with P1000 or P1200, baked-on overspray, and heavily oxidized paint surfaces: these are the application areas for which the SP \"06-02\" was designed. Conventional medium-cut polishes with abrasive grades 4 or 5 fail at these tasks — the SP \"06-02\" systematically and controllably eliminates them, without removing unnecessary paint material.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free — suitable for rework and painting.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone-containing polishes leave residues that are difficult to remove and can lead to fish eyes and adhesion problems during subsequent painting or sealing work. The SP \"06-02\" is completely silicone-free — it leaves no traces that hinder later correction work on the paint, making it the standard for professional paint detailing and workshops that also do repainting.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDefined abrasive pattern for predictable subsequent polishes.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SP \"06-02\" creates a defined, uniform abrasive pattern on the paint, which can be precisely and efficiently refined with the subsequent polish PROFILINE FS 05-04. The coordinated abrasive and gloss levels in the PROFILINE system are no accident — they allow for a workflow where the next step always builds on the previous one, without unnecessary intermediate steps or rework.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always apply the SP \"06-02\" to a clean, dust-free paint surface and degrease the surface beforehand with an IPA mixture (isopropyl alcohol) to remove residues from waxes or care products. In the first pass, use higher pressure (5–10 kg) at a lower speed (800 rpm) to activate the abrasive and remove the defect. Then reduce pressure and increase speed (1200 rpm) for the polishing-out phase. Always work in a checkerboard pattern to avoid transitions. After the SP \"06-02\", always check the defined abrasive pattern under good lighting before proceeding with the FS 05-04.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive grade 6 and gloss level 2 — how SP \"06-02\" deals with paint defects\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE system defines abrasive and gloss levels on a scale that makes it easier to select the right polish for each degree of defect. Abrasive grade 6 is the highest abrasive grade in the SP range — it corresponds to an aggressive cut that also tackles stubborn defects such as deeply embedded scratches and wet sanding marks up to P1200. At the same time, gloss level 2 means that the SP \"06-02\" leaves a certain haze after polishing, which needs to be further refined by a finish polish. This is not a disadvantage, but the plan: a heavy-cut polish that simultaneously produces maximum gloss always compromises either the cutting performance or the finish. The SP \"06-02\" is optimized for the first step — and performs this step so well that the second step with the FS 05-04 becomes efficient and predictable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive formulation of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02\u003c\/strong\u003e works with mineral abrasive particles that become actively abrasive under the polishing pressure of the rotary polisher. These \"breaking down\" abrasives break down during the polishing process: in the first pass with high pressure, they act with their full aggressiveness; in the second pass with reduced pressure, they become finer and create a more uniform abrasive pattern. This self-dissolving behavior is the reason why the SP \"06-02\", despite its abrasive grade of 6, delivers a controlled and predictable result — the paint is not removed uncontrollably, but systematically processed. If you want to understand why professional detailers appreciate the PROFILINE system, you will find one of the central reasons here: the chemistry works with the machine, not against it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for practical use: the SP \"06-02\" is designed for use with a rotary polishing machine, not eccentric machines. Rotary machines generate the necessary heat and pressure to optimally activate the abrasives. With an eccentric machine at a low abrasive grade and moderate pressure, a heavy-cut polish can theoretically be used, but the result and efficiency are significantly worse. In professional use, for which the SP \"06-02\" is designed, only the rotary machine is used — ideally with a lambswool pad for maximum cutting performance or a hard foam pad for a controlled abrasive pattern on more sensitive paints.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying SP \"06-02\" correctly — the workflow with a rotary polishing machine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePhase 1 begins with a prepared paint area, free of dust and dirt. The panel to be worked on should also be at room temperature — cold paint reacts differently to abrasives than warm, and at temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius, the polish cannot develop its optimal effect. Apply product to the pad — not too much, about 4–6 pea-sized drops for an area of about one square meter. Then start with 5–10 kg pressure at 800 rpm and guide evenly over the area to be worked on. The higher pressure activates the abrasives and ensures that defects are removed efficiently. This phase lasts about 30 seconds per square meter and is the actual sanding process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePhase 2 follows immediately: reduce pressure to 1–2 kg, increase speed to 1200 rpm. Now the SP \"06-02\" switches to the polishing-out phase. The finer abrasive particles level the surface created in Phase 1 and create the uniform, defined abrasive pattern that serves as the ideal starting point for the subsequent FS polish. This phase lasts about 60 seconds per square meter. Afterward, remove residues with a clean microfiber cloth and check the result under good lighting — ideally with an LED diagnostic lamp. If defects are still visible, repeat the phase before applying the next polish. The checkerboard pattern is important here: even overlaps of 50% of the pad surface prevent transitions and uneven material removal depths.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical tip for pad selection: The SONAX PROFILINE lambswool pad provides the highest cutting performance with the SP \"06-02\" and is the first choice for hard-to-reach defects or large-area weathering damage. The hard foam pad offers slightly less aggressiveness, but a more uniform abrasive pattern and less heat generation — ideal for more sensitive paints or if you want to control the removal more precisely. The decision between the pads therefore depends on the paint condition and the task: the more aggressive the defects, the more likely lambswool; the more sensitive the paint, the more likely a hard foam pad. If you have both pads in the set, you can switch from lambswool to the foam pad after the first round to further harmonize the abrasive pattern before the FS 05-04 — this often saves a separate polishing pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the SP \"06-02\", the paint is in a state that still shows holograms and fine sanding marks under direct light — this is intended and expected. The purpose of the subsequent polish is precisely this: to further refine this defined abrasive pattern until the paint is hologram-free and highly glossy. Using the SP \"06-02\" as a sole polish and applying wax over it would not be effective — it is the first, not the last step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication areas — when the SP \"06-02\" is the right choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" comes into play in situations where medium-cut polishes are no longer sufficient: freshly repainted panels with orange peel or grit marks, vehicles with deep swirl marks after years without professional detailing, heavily weathered single-stage paints on classic vehicles, and especially post-treatment after wet sanding with P1000–P1200. In damage repair — after hail damage with small sanding spots, after bird dropping etching that has penetrated deep into the clear coat — the SP \"06-02\" is the tool of choice because medium polishes do not fully reach the depth of these damages. Also in overspray removal, where the abrasive effect is necessary to abrade the superimposed foreign paint particles, the SP \"06-02\" shows its full strength.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" has limitations on extremely thin or already heavily thinned paints. For vehicles that have already undergone multiple professional detailing treatments and whose clear coat has little residual thickness, the paint thickness should be measured before using a heavy-cut product. This is not a disadvantage of the SP \"06-02\" — it is a general principle of any abrasive treatment that is automatically taken into account in professional use. The SP \"06-02\" removes defined and controllable amounts of paint when applied correctly and is not a tool for the casual user without experience with rotary machines. Professional detailers generally recommend always working on a test area in a less visible spot before the first use on an unfamiliar vehicle to get a feel for the paint hardness and removal rate — every paint reacts slightly differently, and what works effortlessly on a soft Japanese clear coat requires significantly more machine pressure and dwell time on a hard German clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSP \"06-02\" in the polishing system — the three-step workflow with PROFILINE\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polishing system is designed as a coordinated three-step system. First step: The SP \"06-02\" as a heavy-cut polish removes coarse defects and creates the defined abrasive pattern. Second step: The \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/a\u003e — a medium-cut finish polish with an abrasive grade of 5 and gloss level 4 — refines the result of the SP \"06-02\" and eliminates the holograms and sanding marks created in the first step. Third step: The \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003ePROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e achieves the final high gloss with an abrasive grade of 3 and gloss level 6 and leaves the paint in a swirl-free condition, ready for all sealants and protective products. This gradation from 6 over 5 and 4 to 3 and 6 is no coincidence — it reflects a carefully developed progression that delivers exactly what the next step needs at each stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you have fewer defects and want to get by with a single polish, you can use the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e — a high-speed abrasive polish designed for one-step use on eccentric and rotary machines. The UltimateCut is aggressive and efficient, but not as strong as the SP \"06-02\" and at the same time delivers a better finish — a compromise that makes sense for many everyday detailing tasks. If, on the other hand, you need maximum cutting performance with a clearly defined follow-up workflow — and this is the typical demand in professional paint detailing — the SP \"06-02\" in a complete three-step system is optimally positioned.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePurchase recommendation — for whom the SONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02 is worthwhile\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" is the right tool for professional detailers, painters, and ambitious detailers who work with a rotary polishing machine and want to systematically tackle demanding paint defects. It is always worthwhile when medium polishes are no longer sufficient: after wet sanding, for deep scratches, for overspray, or for heavily weathered paints. Those looking for a single heavy-cut solution for professional use will find the SP \"06-02\" to be a reliable and versatile product from a coordinated system. Together with the FS 05-04 and NP 03-06, it results in a complete, scalable detailing workflow suitable for practically any task in professional paint polishing — from simple scratch removal to complete paint restoration. The 250 ml bottle is suitable for beginners and for trying out the system, the 1-liter container for daily professional use. Those who choose the SP 06-02 are also choosing a clear work philosophy: not fast and with compromises, but systematic and with results. For ambitious hobby detailers who want to delve into professional paint detailing, the SP system is an excellent entry point — the clear steps and predictable effectiveness make it easier to understand and optimize one's own approach. For professionals who detail vehicles daily, the SP \"06-02\" is a reliable constant in the workflow that can be relied upon without surprises. And for workshops that offer detailing services in addition to repair work, it is the right tool to systematically tackle even the most stubborn paint damage with reproducible results.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57345086554447,"sku":"D1-SNX-3201410","price":11.94,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-sp-06-02_250ml.png?v=1774731897"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-os-04-05-hochglanz-politur-one-step","title":"PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" High Gloss Polish (One-Step)","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePaint Correction and High Gloss in One Polishing Pass — PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" in Professional Use\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" achieve? The one-step polish combines medium abrasive power with high gloss performance — scratch correction and finishing in one step, silicone-free and machine-compatible for professional workshop and detailing use.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional vehicle detailing, efficiency directly determines economic success. A polish that delivers correction and finishing in a single pass not only saves time but also reduces machine effort, pad consumption, and the time-consuming switching between different polishing steps. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\"\u003c\/strong\u003e has been developed precisely for this purpose: a one-step polish with medium abrasive power and high gloss effect, which corrects scratches and simultaneously brings a deep high gloss to the paint surface in a single machine pass. Available in 250 ml and 1000 ml, silicone-free formulation — designed for professional workshop and detailing operations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCorrection and finishing in one step for efficient time management.\u003c\/strong\u003e Those who want to polish a lightly to moderately scratched paint without performing two separate polishing steps will find in the OS \"04-05\" a tool that accomplishes both tasks in one polishing session. The time saving per vehicle is noticeable — especially in commercial operations, where every hour saved directly improves the margin.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium abrasive power corrects fine to medium paint scratches without excessive paint removal.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasiveness of the polish is calibrated to safely remove holograms, wash marring, and fine to medium oxidation layers. For most vehicles in normal use, this abrasive power is entirely sufficient — without unnecessarily reducing the valuable clear coat thickness with overly aggressive abrasives.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free formulation for workshop use without contamination risk.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone in care products is problematic for painting work: it prevents the adhesion of topcoats and clear coats and is difficult to remove completely with simple cleaning. The silicone-free formula of the OS \"04-05\" makes the product suitable for body shops that also rework or paint detailed vehicles.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The OS \"04-05\" achieves the best results with a medium-hard foam pad on an orbital polisher. Apply the product evenly to the panel at a low speed, then increase the speed for the working pass. When the polish changes from cloudy to clear during application — a typical sign of diminishing abrasives — the optimal time for buffing is reached. For buffing, switch to a clean microfiber cloth and check the result against the light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe OS designation explained — what the numbers 04-05 say about abrasive power and gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX labels its PROFILINE polishes with a pair of numbers that directly inform about the product properties: The first number stands for abrasive power (Cut), the second for gloss performance (Gloss). The scale ranges from 1 (minimal) to 6 (maximal). The OS \"04-05\" thus has a medium to strong abrasive effect with simultaneously high gloss capability — a combination that is optimal for a one-step approach: enough bite for real correction work, enough gloss for a presentable finishing result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"OS\" in the product name stands for \"One-Step\" — the principle of combining abrasive and gloss components in a single product. Classic two-step workflows first use an abrasive polish with high abrasiveness that mechanically removes scratches, then a finish polish that eliminates holograms and creates deep gloss. The OS line eliminates this second step by having the abrasive particles initially abrade aggressively during the polishing process and then break down into smaller particles that produce the final polished finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE portfolio, there are several OS variants developed for different initial situations and paint conditions. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step\"\u003ePROFILINE OS \"02-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e has less abrasive power (02) with even higher gloss performance (06) and integrated wax sealant — it is the right choice for new or already detailed paints that only require a care polish without significant correction. The OS \"04-05\" cuts more aggressively and is designed for paints in typical use condition with fine to medium scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concept of diminishing abrasives is a crucial factor for the quality of one-step polishes. Simple products with fixed abrasive particles polish uniformly aggressively from beginning to end; the fluidity during buffing can then leave coarse polishing marks in the paint, making a subsequent finishing step mandatory. With the OS \"04-05\", the abrasives progressively break down under pressure and heat, becoming finer and finer, and automatically creating a finer surface at the end of the work step. This physical process is the core reason why professional-grade one-step polishes work and cannot be replaced by inexpensive universal polishes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication of the one-step polish — machine-appropriate workflow for orbital and rotary polishers\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" is designed for machine application. A one-step polish with this abrasive power can hardly be used effectively by hand because the pressure and speed would be too low for complete scratch correction. In professional operations, either orbital polishers (DA-Polishers) or rotary polishers are used — both work with the OS \"04-05\", but produce different results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith an orbital polisher (DA-Polisher), the error tolerance is significantly higher than with a rotary machine: the random movement of the eccentric prevents the formation of holograms or swirls, even if the machine lingers briefly in one spot. This makes the orbital polisher the preferred choice for beginners in machine detailing and for businesses that want to combine high throughput speeds with consistent quality results. A medium-hard foam pad with a diameter of 135–145 mm is recommended for one-step polishing with an orbital polisher.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith a rotary machine, a stronger cut is achieved with the same polish — which can make a significant difference for heavily scratched paints. A rotary machine requires more experience, as overheating and hologram formation are possible if the pad and movement speed are not correct. A softer pad than for the orbital polisher helps reduce the risk of holograms. For experienced detailers, the rotary machine with the OS \"04-05\" is a very fast combination for correction work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe correct amount of product is an underestimated factor: too little polish on the pad dries too quickly and does not create a uniform abrasive effect. Too much polish slings off the pad at high speeds and leads to product waste without quality improvement. As a guideline: about four to five pea-sized dots on the pad for a standard panel like a hood or driver's door. Before the first pass, slowly spread the pad over the panel before increasing the speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePad care between panels is another quality factor that is often underestimated in everyday use. A caked-up pad with dried polish residue polishes worse than a fresh pad and can even cause scratches on sensitive surfaces. In professional operations, a pad washing machine or a pad cleaning brush is recommended to regularly clean the pad during a long detailing session. Alternatively, a supply of pads is recommended so that a fresh pad is always available without interrupting the workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of application and limitations — for which paints and scratch patterns the OS \"04-05\" is suitable\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" covers the largest range of applications within the PROFILINE One-Step line. Vehicles in normal use condition — parking abrasions, wash marring, fine holograms from previous detailing, light weathering oxidation — are ideal candidates for detailing with the OS \"04-05\". In these cases, a single polishing pass is sufficient to achieve a significantly improved gloss level and a cleanly corrected surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe limits of the OS \"04-05\" lie where deep scratches or heavily oxidized clear coat surfaces require higher abrasive power. A deep scratch where the nail catches when running over it reaches into the base coat or even through the clear coat — here, an abrasive polish from the high-cut range is necessary before a one-step polish can be meaningfully used. Even with heavily matted surfaces with pronounced clear coat oxidation, an aggressive abrasive polish like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\"\u003c\/a\u003e is recommended first to prepare the surface before the OS \"04-05\" takes over the finishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" has proven particularly effective for used car trade-ins and consignments: vehicles that have not been known to be detailed and whose paint condition requires an assessment without extensive preliminary examination can be quickly assessed with a test panel. If the one-step polish visibly removes scratches and builds gloss on a test area, the abrasive power is sufficient. If not, it is clear that a more aggressive product is necessary beforehand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for commercial use: The test panel should always be performed in a less exposed area — such as the B-pillar or the lower edge of a rear door — so that an unexpected result does not leave visible damage on a main surface. For businesses that regularly detail vehicles of unknown origin and pretreatment, a structured polishing triage is indispensable: first decontamination, then test panel, then decision on product choice for full detailing. This approach prevents costly mistakes and delivers a consistently good result to the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn high-gloss paints of darker colors — black, anthracite, dark blue — polishing marks are particularly visible. If holograms are seen after polishing on these shades, a short post-polishing step can optionally be added with a soft finishing pad and the lighter \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003ePROFILINE NP \"03-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e, which eliminates remaining fine marks and further deepens the gloss. In most cases, however, this is not necessary on light to medium shades — the one-step polish leaves a hologram-free, deep high-gloss result directly with the right pad, which is immediately presentable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOS \"04-05\" in comparison — Classification in the PROFILINE polish matrix\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polish series offers the right product for every correction effort. To make the right choice, a look at the entire range helps: On one side are the heavy-cut polishes with high abrasive power and low gloss effect, on the other side are the finish polishes with minimal abrasive power and maximum gloss performance. The OS products are positioned across this as one-step solutions: They forgo the highest abrasive grades, but combine practical correction performance with good gloss values.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a direct comparison with the OS \"02-06\", the difference lies clearly in the application situation: The OS \"02-06\" is a care polish with wax sealant for regularly maintained vehicles without correction needs — it shines excellently and seals at the same time, but has little bite for scratches. The OS \"04-05\" is the one-step solution for vehicles that need real correction. Those who detail vehicles in fleet operations that have accumulated significant marks between intervals will use the OS \"04-05\".\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to a classic two-step workflow with Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" followed by a finish polish, the OS \"04-05\" saves time at the expense of maximum correction depth. Those who want to detail a vehicle to show car level will not be able to avoid the two separate steps. For workshop detailing operations that detail several vehicles daily in an acceptable time and want to deliver a good — but not perfection-seeking — result, the OS \"04-05\" is the more economical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical decision-making scheme for polish selection: If, after cleaning and decontamination, the vehicle only shows fine wash marring swirls under an LED lamp and no deep scratches — OS \"04-05\" is sufficient. If deep individual scratches or extensive heavy oxidation are present — first Cut+Finish or heavy-cut polish, then optionally finish with the OS \"04-05\". If the vehicle has been freshly detailed and only a few months have passed — OS \"02-06\" for care without significant removal. These three scenarios cover the majority of daily detailing work, and for the middle case, the one-step polish with 04-05 designation is usually the right answer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — for whom the SONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" is the right choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the polish for professional detailers who work on vehicles daily and are looking for a reliable one-step solution for standard cases. Car dealerships, used car dealers, rental car fleets, and mobile detailers benefit from a product that delivers a clean result in one polishing pass for typical use conditions. The 1000 ml bottle is designed for continuous operation; the 250 ml bottle is suitable for individual users or for testing before a bulk purchase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe silicone-free formulation also makes the polish suitable for businesses that offer vehicle detailing and paint repair under one roof. Those who subsequently bring detailed vehicles into the paint booth or perform partial paint jobs must be sure that polish residues do not cause fisheyes, wetting problems, or adhesion problems in the fresh topcoat. With the silicone-free formulation of the one-step polish, this risk factor is reliably eliminated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 carries the one-step polish in both container sizes and is happy to advise on the selection of the appropriate one-step product for the respective area of application. If you are unsure which OS variant is better suited for your requirements, it is best to describe the typical paint condition of the vehicles to be processed — then the recommendation can be made precisely. For businesses that do not yet have experience with the PROFILINE polish series, it is recommended to start with the 250 ml bottle to calibrate pad choice and machine settings on a test vehicle before ordering the 1-liter container for full operation.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57345087308111,"sku":"D1-SNX-2121410","price":14.14,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57345087340879,"sku":"D1-SNX-2123000","price":38.48,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-os-04-05_1liter.png?v=1774731877"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-clay-knetmasse","title":"PROFILINE Clay Bar","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMechanically decontaminate the paint surface — the SONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar at pro level\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets the Clay Bar from the SONAX PROFILINE range apart? This high-grade pro clay made in Japan pulls stubborn contamination like fallout, tar, industrial fallout and brake dust off paint, glass and chrome without scratching the surface — mechanically, no chemistry, in a 100 g hand-sized piece.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRegular washing and chemical cleaners shift plenty of contamination — but not all of it. Fallout, baked-on industrial fallout, stubborn tar spots and adhesive residue lock mechanically into the paint surface and stay put despite shampoo and pre-wash. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar\u003c\/strong\u003e pulls this contamination off through mechanical shearing: the clay glides over the surface you've wetted with lube and \"catches\" the dirt particles sticking up out of the paint, trapping them in the clay — a physical process that cleans deeper than any cleaner on its own.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMark-free mechanical cleaning thanks to the Japanese formula.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PROFILINE product is based on an original product from Japan — a country known for precisely made detailing clays with an even particle spread. The finely tuned consistency lets it grab dirt particles without leaving marks behind — as long as you use plenty of lube and work the clay with a light hand rather than pressure.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHolds its shape, non-sticky, long-lasting.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike cheap clays that turn tacky after a short while, fall apart or leave residue on the paint, this clay keeps its shape and stays grippy. Storing it dry and germ-free in the box it comes in gives you a long service life across plenty of details.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on paint, glass and chrome.\u003c\/strong\u003e Every exposed vehicle surface that takes regular environmental hits can be worked with the Clay Bar — clear coat, toughened glass, chromed trim and alloy wheels. The 100 g hand size is enough to do a full mid-size car and lets you work precisely in tight spots.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always use plenty of lube — best of all the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-quickdetailer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e sprayed straight onto the surface. Never use the clay on a dry surface; the drag it creates puts in scratches. Fold the clay over once after each pass to move the dirt you've picked up to the inside and bring a fresh clay face to the surface. When the clay goes too dark or the dirt particles won't fold away anymore, it's spent and should go in the bin — never re-knead it and carry on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow claying decontaminates the paint surface — the physics and how it works in detail\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar\u003c\/strong\u003e works on a physical principle that's fundamentally different from chemical cleaning. Chemical cleaners shift contamination through a pH reaction or solvent action — alkaline cleaners emulsify grease, acidic cleaners dissolve limescale, and iron removers react with rust particles. Claying, on the other hand, mechanically \"shears\" contamination off the paint surface: the slightly tacky consistency of the clay bonds with dirt particles that sit above the paint level and tears them out of their anchoring as you pull the clay along.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis mechanism explains why claying is irreplaceable for certain contamination and can't be fully swapped out for any chemical method. Baked-in fallout — microscopic metal particles thrown off by braking and rail traffic that bake into the clear coat — is reachable for chemical iron removers, as long as the oxidation hasn't gone too deep yet. For everything else that won't shift chemically, the mechanical action of the clay is the better tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe quality of the clay decides how gentle this process is. Cheap clays hold hard particles spread unevenly or have a consistency that's too firm, so they act like sandpaper when you drag them over the paint. Japanese production stands for an even spread of plasticisers and tested particle sizes that make sure the clay grabs dirt without leaving its own marks or scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that often gets underrated day-to-day is how claying affects the polishing that comes after. On a surface that hasn't been decontaminated, the clear coat still holds embedded foreign bodies that act like tiny grinding particles during polishing — the polish can't carry the pad evenly across the surface, and the result falls short of what's possible. After claying you've got a smooth, particle-free surface where the polish's abrasives only work the clear coat — the polishing process becomes repeatable and the high-gloss result predictable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter claying the paint surface is typically satin-smooth and slick — every bit of sealant residue has been pulled off by the lube and the claying. The \"nail test\" feel, where you run a finger wrapped in plastic film over the untreated surface and feel roughness, vanishes completely after claying. This roughness-free surface is the ideal base for the polishing or sealing that follows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the SONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar properly — prep, lube and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic requirement for safe claying is a thoroughly pre-washed surface. Loose dirt particles on the paint — sand, coarse grit — have to be off before you clay, since they get between clay and paint and can put in scratches. A base wash with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean \"Alkaline\" pre-cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e takes off grease, silicone and surface dirt before the clay goes to work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe lube is the most critical variable in the clay process. A quick detailer with enough lubricating action — like the SONAX PROFILINE QuickDetailer — lets the clay glide over the surface without snagging or putting in scratches. Spray the QuickDetailer on generously over an area of about 40 × 40 cm before you bring in the clay. You can re-spray during claying as needed; too little lube noticeably ups the friction and is the clear signal to stop right away and spray more.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe technique is linear, not circular: you guide the clay in straight passes with very light pressure — pretty much just the weight of the clay itself — over the surface. Circular motions concentrate the shearing forces and up the scratch risk; straight passes spread the removal evenly. Fold the clay over once after each pass to hide the dirt you've picked up and bring a fresh clay face to the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter claying there's QuickDetailer residue left on the surface, which you take off with a clean \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-microfasertuch-soft-touch-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch \"Soft Touch\"\u003c\/a\u003e. The surface is then ready to polish — the full removal of wax and sealant residue through the claying often makes a separate degrease unnecessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eClay Bar use cases — when claying is needed and where the limits are\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Clay Bar can be used on every smooth, glossy vehicle surface: clear coat on bodywork and bumpers, toughened glass on the side and rear windows, chromed or polished metal trim and alloy wheels. On these surfaces it pulls off every kind of clinging industrial fallout, fallout, tar spots, adhesive residue and stubborn water spots that chemical cleaning couldn't fully shift.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical test for whether claying is needed is the \"plastic film test\" or \"nail test\": cover a freshly washed vehicle with a small piece of plastic film and run your finger over it — if you feel clear roughness, the surface is contaminated and claying is needed. After the work you repeat the test: a genuinely clean, decontaminated surface feels smooth as glass. This simple check also works to show the customer and makes the added value of the clay step immediately tangible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eVehicles with especially heavy contamination loads — vehicles that regularly sit near industrial or rail areas, company cars on open car parks, or vehicles after nearby paint work — benefit from regular clay treatments. In a professional detailing protocol, claying sits after pre-cleaning and before polishing: wash first → iron remover → clay → polish → seal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn important step after claying that often gets overlooked is drying the surface thoroughly before polishing. The lube (QuickDetailer) leaves a thin residual film after you wipe it off, which can affect how the polish works. With high-gloss polishes this is mostly no problem; with sealants and coatings that need an absolutely clean, dry surface, a final wipe-down with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is worth it — it takes off all lube residue and sets the surface up ideally for the next step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe limits of claying are with surfaces that have no clear-coat seal. Matte paint and matte wraps simply aren't suited to claying — the clay and lube would change the micro-textured matte surface and wreck the matte character. Extremely deep-set contamination, where the foreign body has gone in under the clear-coat surface, can't be pulled off with the clay either; that's where an abrasive polish or paint correction is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eClay Bar compared — claying vs chemistry, clay pad and clay cloth\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the modern detailing market there are various approaches to mechanical decontamination of the paint surface that complement the classic clay bar or replace it in certain areas. Each method has its pros and cons, and understanding these differences helps you pick the right tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eClay pads for polishing machines — pads made of polyethylene or similar synthetics — allow machine decontamination with higher area output. They're more efficient on big surfaces like the bonnet and roof, but less precise in tight spots like mirror housings, door edges and grille angles. The hand clay is the better choice in these areas and indispensable for precise, controlled claying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eClay cloths (cleaning cloths with a clay-coated surface) are another modern alternative that's easier to handle than a loose clay bar — you wipe the cloth straight over the surface without having to shape and fold it like a clay bar. The downside: if a clay cloth hits the floor it's contaminated — unlike a clay bar — and has to be binned. The hand clay, by contrast, can be wiped, kneaded and carried on with for surface-level dirt, as long as no coarse dirt particles have worked their way in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eChemical alternatives like fallout removers and iron removers are very effective for certain contamination types — above all oxidised iron particles — and take less manual work. Combining chemical decontamination (iron remover first) and claying afterwards is the gold standard in professional detailing: the iron remover loosens the oxidised iron particles first, and they're then pulled up far more easily by the clay. That way both tools are reduced to their respective strength, and the end result is a fully decontaminated surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar — use in a pro operation and the system idea\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar pays off in any detailing operation that offers full paint details. Without decontamination through claying, the detailing protocol is missing a key step — polishes on contaminated surfaces run straight over the baked-in foreign bodies and can't fully control the result. The 100 g unit is enough for one to two full vehicle details; for high-throughput operations it's worth keeping several units in stock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE system workflow, the Clay Bar fills the step between the alkaline base clean with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eMultiClean \"Alkaline\"\u003c\/a\u003e and the polish itself. After claying the surface is roughness-free and low on sealant residue — in this state SONAX PROFILINE polishes work at maximum efficiency, because no foreign body is left to disturb the cutting action or act as scratch potential. Sealing off afterwards with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-brilliantshine-detailer-spruhversiegelung\"\u003eBrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e reliably protects the freshly detailed surface against quick re-soiling — and lays down a hydrophobic protective layer that pushes the next claying far into the future, because contamination clings far less to sealed surfaces than to unsealed clear coat — a cycle of cleaning and protecting that noticeably cuts the effort of every follow-up detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStoring the Clay Bar after use is simple but important: wipe the clay down with a clean microfibre cloth, knead it through well (to spread the dirt particles evenly), then store it dry in the box it came in. Damp storage promotes germ growth and can damage the clay structure over time. With the right care and storage the 100 g unit is usable across several details, which brings the cost per treatment down to an economical level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor operations that offer their customers full documentation of the detailing steps, the clay treatment is a convincing piece of added value to put across: customers you explain it to — that after washing their vehicle still had mechanically bound contamination in the surface that only claying could remove — grasp the difference between a simple car wash and a professional detail straight away, intuitively. Anyone who communicates the clay step visibly — say with a quick before-and-after test using the plastic film method — builds lasting trust and clearly sets their offering apart from cheaper competitors. The hands-on proof of \"smooth as glass\" after claying is more convincing than any brochure. That makes the Clay Bar not just a cleaning tool but a quality marker in the customer conversation too.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"100 g","offer_id":57345154842959,"sku":"D1-SNX-4505050","price":29.16,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-clay_1-stueck.png?v=1774736518"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-claydisc-150-lackknete-pad","title":"PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\" clay pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMachine paint decon in a fraction of the time — SONAX PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is a ClayDisc and how does it differ from a clay bar? This machine-driven clay pad from the PROFILINE line is built for random-orbital and DA polishers — it swaps hand-kneading for machine-speed decon, working the same area in a fraction of the time with more even cut.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEvery proper detail starts with decontamination: fallout, baked-on brake dust, industrial fallout and tree-sap contamination sit deep in the clearcoat and have to come off before you polish or seal. A classic clay bar does the job, but it eats time — on a mid-size car you're looking at 30–60 minutes by hand. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\"\u003c\/strong\u003e cuts that down hard: as a 150 mm dia. clay pad for dual-action random-orbital machines, the machine does the claying for you. Time per car drops to 10–15 minutes — and the whole panel gets treated more evenly than you'd manage by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMachine decon up to 5× faster than a hand clay bar.\u003c\/strong\u003e With the machine doing the work, the ClayDisc walks across the paint in broad, even passes — no missed spots, no patchy pressure. The DA's orbital throw creates a randomised claying motion that beats a straight-line hand stroke: the surface gets hit from several angles, which pulls off stubborn contamination that shrugs off a one-directional pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks with DA random-orbital polishers on a standard hook-and-loop backing plate.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ClayDisc fits any orbital machine with a 150 mm dia. backing plate and Hook\u0026amp;Loop fastening — the standard format on most pro DA polishers. No adapter kit, no special machine. The clay is laid onto a carrier disc that takes the hook-and-loop directly and stays fully on the backing plate when you peel it — no delaminating, no clay layer lifting mid-job.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReusable across plenty of cars — with the right care.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ClayDisc's clay picks up contamination and stores it in its surface. After each car, rinse the clay face with clean water and knead it (fold it in, squeeze it out) to work the trapped particles deeper and expose fresh surface. Look after it like that and one ClayDisc lasts several dozen cars before the face is fully saturated and needs replacing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always run plenty of lube with the ClayDisc — either a dedicated clay lubricant or, in a pinch, diluted car shampoo (2 ml to 500 ml water). Too little lube and the pad grabs and tears across the paint and can leave marring. Keep the machine at a low to medium speed (setting 2–3 on the DA) — more speed doesn't mean more decon, it just raises the risk of heat building up in the clay. After the ClayDisc pass, do a control wash or rinse with clean water before you prep the clearcoat for polish or sealant with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare degreaser\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eClayDisc \"150\" clay technology — material, abrasion grade and decon performance\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\"\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a thermoplastic polymer clay laid as a thin working layer on a firm carrier disc. That carrier disc handles the mechanical link to the machine (hook-and-loop) and spreads pressure evenly across the whole clay face. The clay itself sits in the mid-range of the clay-aggression scale — punchy enough to lift baked-on iron particles, fallout, sap and caked industrial dust, but gentle enough that the claying doesn't carve deep scratches into the clearcoat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe aggression of a clay is a key parameter: too soft and it won't grab contamination effectively; too aggressive and it leaves marring in the clearcoat that you then have to polish out. The ClayDisc \"150\" sits in the medium to slightly aggressive band — plenty for most contamination on normal cars, without forcing a heavy correction pass afterwards just to clear marring. On very soft paint or fresh respray, do a test on a hidden spot, because any mechanical decon — even with lube — leaves minimal contact marks that can show up on very soft paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe DA's oscillating motion drives the clay across the surface from different angles and directions. That three-dimensional attack lifts contamination that sometimes holds firm under a one-directional hand stroke: the machine gets around the \"flow shadow\" that a directional claying motion can leave around firmly stuck particles. For very stubborn single spots — deep sap dots, say, or baked-in brake-dust deposits — a hand clay still wins on precision in those small areas, because you can build pressure more deliberately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne core advantage of the machine over hand claying is consistent pressure: by hand, the pressure swings with fatigue and the angle of your wrist; with the machine, it stays constant across the whole working face. That gives you a more even decon result — treated the same everywhere, never overdone anywhere. On cars with big flat areas like bonnets and roofs the edge is measurable: the feel after the ClayDisc pass (that famous glass-smooth paint) is more even than after hand claying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ClayDisc's clay is formulated to resist solvents: in contact with clay lubricants that carry small amounts of cleaning agents, the clay keeps its structure and elasticity. That matters, because some detailers use quick detailers or dedicated lubes as lube, and these carry surfactants and polymers — which would soften a non-solvent-resistant clay and change its surface texture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the ClayDisc \"150\" — lube, machine speed and the run\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe right ClayDisc routine in the prep process: car fully washed and dried; then snap the ClayDisc onto the DA; spray the paint with plenty of lube (the panel should glisten wet, not drip); at setting 2–3, run even passes across the panel, keeping light pressure; overlap each pass 50% with the last; rinse the panel with clean water afterwards and dry it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLube is the single most critical variable with the ClayDisc. Too little and the clay drags hard on the paint — you'll feel it as grabbing or juddering in the machine. The second you feel that resistance, drop the speed and add more lube. Too much lube and the clay \"floats\" and loses mechanical contact — decon performance drops off. You've got the right amount when the machine glides smoothly across the panel without skating. Good rule of thumb: about 5–8 sprays of clay lubricant on a 50×50 cm panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor stubborn local contamination (sap spots, say, or heavily brake-dusted areas behind the wheel arches) you can work the ClayDisc over that area with more pressure and several overlapping passes. Just don't tilt the machine — the ClayDisc has to sit flat on the surface so the whole clay face works evenly. A tilted disc only works on its edge, which both cuts effectiveness and raises the risk of edge marks. Take the machine up to setting 3, put direct pressure on the contaminated spot and make 3–4 passes — the clay works its way into the contamination and lifts it off layer by layer. After that more intense bit, always spray fresh lube and finish the whole panel back at normal setting 2.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the ClayDisc pass, rinse the disc under running water and knead and squeeze it hard to work the picked-up contamination deeper into the clay. Visibly dark or heavily discoloured spots on the clay face show where most of the contamination landed — those spots get kneaded in deeper next time round to expose fresh surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe ClayDisc in the pro detailing process — workflow, time saved and quality control\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a pro detailing shop the ClayDisc \"150\" is an efficiency tool that re-frames the whole decon step. Without it: 45–60 minutes of hand claying per car, hard going and tiring on the wrist. With the ClayDisc: 10–15 minutes of machine decon, a more even result, less physical strain on the detailer. At 5 cars a day the ClayDisc saves 2.5–3.5 hours of working time daily — time that's far better spent on other steps in the detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eQuality control after the ClayDisc pass is the touch test: run a freshly washed finger (in a protective glove) across the cleaned paint. A smooth, near-frictionless glide tells you the contamination is gone — the \"glass\" feel. Roughness and resistance as you glide mean there's contamination left, calling for either a second ClayDisc pass or a manual touch-up with the traditional \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-clay-knetmasse\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Clay bar\u003c\/a\u003e. The latter is often the more precise call for very small, stubborn spots — the ClayDisc for the open panels, the hand clay for the detail work.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eA common question in the shop: do you always have to polish after the ClayDisc? Technically no — claying on its own often leaves no visible marks, depending on clearcoat hardness and the lube you ran. Under strip lighting you'll see minimal contact patterns on very soft paint; on medium-hard to hard OEM clearcoat the paint is already very smooth and even after claying with no further work. If you're only sealing (no polish), a mild pass with a soft finishing pad and a light finishing polish is worth it to clear any clay marks and optimise the surface for the sealant to bond. Anyone polishing the car afterwards can often skip that intermediate step, since the polish removes the clay marks anyway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ClayDisc \"150\" is built primarily for the prep step before polishing. After a successful decon pass the paint is free of contamination, but the claying has left the finest surface marks — comparable to very fine scratches from a mild abrasive. Those marks come fully out in the following polishing step (even with a medium-hard foam pad and a mild polish), so the finished result after the full detail shows no clay marks at all. Seal straight after the ClayDisc without polishing and you risk locking those marks in under the sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eClayDisc \"150\" compared — clay disc vs. hand clay bar vs. chemical decon\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe classic \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-clay-knetmasse\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Clay bar\u003c\/a\u003e is the proven tool for hand decon — it lets you do precise detail work on edges, mirrors and small areas, but it eats time on big panels. The ClayDisc \"150\" is its counterpart for machine work on open areas: large-area, fast, even. In pro detailing the two tools sensibly work together: ClayDisc for the bonnet, roof, wings and doors; hand clay for bumper edges, the undersides of spoilers and spots the big disc can't reach well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe alternative to mechanical decon is chemical iron removers and clay substitutes (clay towels, clay mitts). Chemical iron removers like the SONAX PROFILINE fallout remover dissolve metallic iron particles chemically — they're especially good on brake-dust iron particles, but they can't remove every type of contamination (sap, industrial fallout). Clay towels and clay mitts work much like the ClayDisc but are softer and better suited to delicate paint. The ClayDisc \"150\" pairs the abilities of a clay with the speed of the machine, which makes it the most efficient all-round tool for full-panel mechanical decon in a pro setup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\" — planning, care and reuse\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor pro detailing shops decontaminating several cars a day, the ClayDisc \"150\" is a soundly economical investment: a well-cared-for ClayDisc lasts 30–50 cars or more, depending on how heavy the contamination is. By comparison, a hand clay typically drops off noticeably in cleaning power after 8–12 cars. The higher up-front price of the ClayDisc against a hand clay pays for itself quickly through the longer service life and the saved working time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTelltale signs of a spent ClayDisc: the clay face is dark all over (fully saturated with contamination), has no elasticity left, or shows cracks and lifting spots. A spent ClayDisc won't decontaminate effectively anymore, even rinsed with water — the clay has no capacity left to take on new contamination. In that state, replace it, since working on with a saturated disc gets you no cleaning power at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBetween cars, always store the ClayDisc damp — drying out turns the clay hard and brittle. If a dried-out clay face is wetted again, it takes several minutes for the elasticity to come back — and during that window working with the disc isn't advisable, since hard clay marks the paint rather than lifting contamination. Taking a break? Drop the ClayDisc straight into water. Easy method: lay the ClayDisc in a shallow plastic tray with a bit of water and keep it covered between uses. After the working day, store the ClayDisc cool in a damp, covered container. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 keeps the PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\" in the range permanently. To get the most life out of the disc, it's worth running a chemical iron remover before the machine claying: it dissolves the iron-rich contamination chemically first, so the ClayDisc has less mechanical work to do and its clay face stays fresh longer.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1 piece \/ Ø 150 mm","offer_id":57345154941263,"sku":"D1-SNX-4512410","price":26.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-claydisc-150_1-stueck.png?v=1774736525"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-weich-125-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125 polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-free finish polishing with the SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125 — soft, fine-pored, precise\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125 special? This soft, fine-pored finish polishing pad for random-orbital machines gets you hologram-free, deep-gloss results on delicate paint — thanks to an open-cell foam structure with optimal polish uptake and even pressure distribution.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn finish polishing, the last few microns of paint surface decide between success and failure — too hard a pad, too aggressive a polish or uneven pressure leaves holograms that only show up in direct sunlight. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly this final stage: soft, fine-pored foam that takes up and releases polish evenly, gives you gentle cut without any hologram risk, and works precisely on random-orbital machines with a 125 mm backing plate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSoft foam structure for a hologram-free finish.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ExzenterPad weich 125 is made from fine-pored, soft foam that stores the polish in the pad and spreads it evenly across the paint through the orbital motion of the machine. This controlled release stops local build-ups that would cause uneven cut and holograms. The result is a clear, deep gloss with no inclusions left to chase down afterwards.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOptimised 140 mm diameter for a 125 mm backing plate.\u003c\/strong\u003e The pad has an outer diameter of 140 mm on a 125 mm backing plate — the 7.5 mm overhang on each side keeps the edge of the backing plate from touching the paint directly and leaving scratches. This sizing is dialled in for use on random-orbital machines like the SONAX PROFILINE PE12-2 random orbital or comparable 125 mm systems.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHook-and-loop backing for quick pad swaps.\u003c\/strong\u003e The back of the pad has a hook-and-loop system that lets you swap pads fast — no tools, no waiting. In a pro setting, where you run several pads for different steps during one detail, that quick swap is a real time-saver.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lightly dampen the ExzenterPad weich 125 with water before its first use and \"prime\" it with a small amount of polish — let the machine run in briefly at low speed before you start the actual polishing pass. That saturates the pores of the pad evenly and stops the first few centimetres of panel getting worked with too much or too little polish. Clean the pad after every car with a pad brush or compressed air to pull out the polish residue it has soaked up and keep the pore structure open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuild and technology of the ExzenterPad weich 125 — foam structure, cell openness and polish uptake\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125\u003c\/strong\u003e is made from a soft, open-cell polyurethane foam whose structure is tuned specifically to work with the finish polishes in the SONAX PROFILINE line. Open-cell foam takes up polish better than closed-cell foam, because the connected pores hold the liquid polish in the pad by capillary action and release it evenly under pressure — much like a sponge soaks up water and gives it back when you squeeze it, but with a controlled flow rate set by the structure of the foam.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow soft the pad is has a direct effect on the cut: a hard pad transfers more pressure to the paint and delivers stronger cutting power — handy for heavy correction or scratch removal, but too aggressive for finish polishing. A soft pad like the ExzenterPad weich 125 cushions part of the pressure, which gives you a more even spread of force across the whole pad face. The result is a gentle but effective cutting process that lets finish polishes show their full effect without damaging the surface through high-pressure spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe thickness of the ExzenterPad weich 125 is chosen so that the orbital motion of the machine is damped — thicker pads damp the rotation more and give a softer feel at work, which is what you want for finish work on freshly corrected paint. Pads that are too thin pass the machine's motion straight onto the paint, which can leave marks with aggressive polishes. The ExzenterPad weich 125 is built around a thickness that activates the typical SONAX PROFILINE high-gloss polishes perfectly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother technical point is heat build-up while polishing. Soft pads generate less friction heat than hard pads thanks to the damped pressure transfer — an advantage on delicate paint such as single-stage clear coats, water-based paints or older paints with no hardener. Too much heat can soften these paints and lead to so-called \"buffer trails\" that are hard to remove. By the nature of its material, the ExzenterPad weich 125 runs inherently cooler than its harder counterparts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePad care and cleaning directly affect both lifespan and the quality of your results. After every use, pull the polish residue out with a pad brush or compressed air; after a work session, give it a basic clean with lukewarm water or a dedicated pad cleaner. Don't put foam pads in the dryer after a wet clean — the heat can damage the cell structure and harden the pad for good. Air-drying at room temperature keeps the open-cell structure, and with it the polish uptake, intact over many uses.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the ExzenterPad weich 125 the right way — machine, polish and speed\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad weich 125 is built as a pure finish pad and plays to its strengths on the final polishing step of a paint correction. In a typical two-stage detailing workflow you first run the correction with a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/a\u003e or a hard pad — scratches, swirls and oxidised areas get removed. The ExzenterPad weich 125 then takes over the final polish: it works finish polishes into the corrected surface, removes the fine sanding marks from the previous stage and brings out the final high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe polish you pick has a big say in the result on the soft pad. Finish polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" high-gloss polish\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" high-gloss polish\u003c\/a\u003e are tuned to work with soft pads: low abrasiveness, high gloss development, a low-residue formula. Don't run aggressive cutting compounds on the ExzenterPad weich 125 — the pad's low abrasiveness can't make the most of the polish's full cut, and the leftover sanding marks stay in the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the machine setting, the soft pad likes the mid speed steps (step 3–4 on a 6-step machine). Higher steps raise the friction heat and can wear the soft pad faster; steps that are too low don't fully activate the polish and drag out the working time with no gain in quality. You put the polish on the pad in small amounts as dots — about 3–4 pea-sized blobs for an area of 40 × 50 cm. Too much polish throws spatter while you work it in and stretches out the buffing time; too little lets the pad run dry and raises the friction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the random-orbital machine you work the ExzenterPad weich 125 in overlapping passes across the work area — a 50% overlap makes sure no stripes or transitions stay visible. Keep the contact pressure light: the dead weight of the machine is usually enough for the soft pad; pressing too hard compresses the pores and stops the polish spreading evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eResults and uses — which paints and cars the ExzenterPad weich 125 is ideal for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad weich 125 is built for delicate, modern clear coats that need a gentle, hologram-free final pass after correction. It's especially good for new cars with soft factory clear coats — these paints react badly to over-abrasion and show holograms fast when worked with pads that are too hard or polishes that are too aggressive. On these paints, the soft pad paired with a low-abrasive finish polish gets you results that are fully hologram-free to the naked eye and in direct sunlight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars with very soft paint — often from Japanese makers like Toyota, Mazda or Honda — the ExzenterPad weich 125 is the finish pad to reach for. These paints react strongly to pressure points and pad edges; the even pressure distribution of the soft pad stops the \"buffer trails\" that show up fast on such paint with harder pads. The pad's sizing for 125 mm systems suits the random-orbital machines most commonly used for detailing work on normal car panels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad weich 125 also suits one-step polishes that combine cut and gloss in a single step. On fresh, lightly marked paint — say a new-car prep or a regularly maintained vehicle — a soft pad paired with a one-step polish is enough to reduce the swirls that are there and build a deep gloss at the same time. This single-stage detailing saves time and is an economical option for shops with high vehicle throughput, without giving up quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're detailing cars with ceramic coatings, the ExzenterPad weich 125 works there too — as an applicator pad for liquid ceramic coatings that go on and get worked in with a machine. In that use, the pad takes over from the hand applicator and lets you lay down a more even layer thickness across large areas. Cleaning the pad after a coating application does need special care, though, since cured ceramic residue can render the pad useless — so right after applying, flush the pad thoroughly with a solvent or isopropyl alcohol before the coating sets.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe ExzenterPad weich 125 compared — how it differs from the ExzenterPad medium and ExzenterPad hard\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad range covers three hardness grades, each built for a different step in the detailing workflow. Understanding the differences helps you pick the right pad for each step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hard\u003c\/a\u003e is the correction pad for the first step — it transfers the machine's pressure straight onto the paint and fully activates the cut of cutting compounds. On a hard pad, a cutting polish removes deep scratches, swirls and heavy oxidation effectively, but leaves fine sanding marks in the paint that have to be removed in the next step. The ExzenterPad medium bridges the gap — it's softer than the hard pad, but still abrasive enough for polishing polishes that clean up the residual marks of the cutting step. The ExzenterPad weich 125 sits at the end of this sequence: maximum gentleness, minimum abrasion, maximum gloss development.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common day-to-day mistake is mixing different polish types on a single pad. Run several polishes one after another on the same pad and you risk unpredictable reactions between the formulas and uneven cut rates. In a pro setting the rule holds: one pad, one polish. When the polishing stage changes, the pad changes too — clearly labelled and stored separately. This principle applies to all three ExzenterPad hardness grades and gives you repeatable, quality-consistent results across many cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe choice between these hardness grades comes down to the state of the paint and the result you want. On a car with heavy weathering and deep scratches you start with the hard pad and work your way through the medium pad to the soft pad. On a near-new car with light swirls you can start straight off with the ExzenterPad medium or even the ExzenterPad weich 125 — no correction, just polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the ExzenterPad weich 125 — system recommendation and use in a pro setting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother advantage of the PROFILINE system is how well it documents for a pro setting. Work with a clearly defined pad-and-polish system and pick the right pad for each paint type, and you can explain to the customer in a traceable way which tools were used for which result — a mark of quality that builds trust and generates repeat business. The ExzenterPad weich 125 can be clearly positioned as the \"finish pad, stage 3\" — transparent for the customer and firmly anchored in your own workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125 is aimed mainly at professional detailers, reconditioning shops and workshops that work with 125 mm random-orbital machines and want to finish the last polishing step carefully. As a single pad for a specific step in the workflow, it's tuned to all the random-orbital polishes in the SONAX PROFILINE line — from the NP \"03-06\" finish polish to the OS \"02-06\" one-step polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a pro setting it pays to buy several ExzenterPads weich 125 at once. Over the course of a detail the pad soaks up polish residue; run the same pad on the next car without cleaning it in between and worked-in dirt particles can act as a scratch risk. With a set of 3–5 pads you can fully detail a car without having to clean and dry pads mid-job — the shop stays efficient and the results stay consistent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad weich 125 pairs ideally with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eExzenterPad medium\u003c\/a\u003e for two-stage workflows or with the ExzenterPad hard for demanding three-stage corrections. Run the complete pad system from SONAX PROFILINE and you benefit from a matched product line where pads and polishes were developed together — no need to test compatibility between different makers by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1 piece","offer_id":57345155891535,"sku":"D1-SNX-4925000","price":11.15,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-weich-125_1-stueck.png?v=1774736579"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-filzpad-125-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE FilzPad 125 polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eWork glass polish and sanding pastes precisely with the SONAX PROFILINE FilzPad 125\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX PROFILINE FilzPad 125 special? This aggressive felt disc is built for machine work with glass polishes and sanding pastes — it runs on glass, paint and metal polishes, where foam pads would be far too soft.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot every polishing job comes off with a foam pad. Glass polishes, sanding pastes for deep paint damage and clouded plastic windows all need a material with much more cut of its own and a different fibre structure than foam. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FilzPad 125\u003c\/strong\u003e is made exactly for that: a dense, aggressive felt disc, 125 mm across, that runs on both dual-action and rotary machines and really shows its strength where soft foam simply won't generate enough cut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAggressive felt structure for maximum cut.\u003c\/strong\u003e Felt works in a fundamentally different way to foam: the tightly woven fibres deliver an even, high level of cut across the surface during machine polishing. Sanding pastes don't get soaked into pores — they get driven straight into the working area. That makes the FilzPad 125 especially effective on thick oxidation layers, clouded glass and every job where a foam pad just won't reach the abrasion you need.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for glass polishes and sanding pastes.\u003c\/strong\u003e Glass surfaces put particular demands on the tool: it can't leave residue behind, it has to polish evenly and it must not scratch the glass. Felt handles all of that better than foam, because the fibres have no pores where polish residue can dry in — and because the even fibre structure keeps pressure spread consistently across the whole working area.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e2 per pack for proper day-in, day-out use.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a high-throughput detailing shop, swapping between clean and used pads keeps the workflow tight. Two FilzPads per pack let you reach for a fresh one while the spent pad gets cleaned — no break between two cars. For heavy glass-correction jobs that burn through several pads per vehicle, the twin pack gives you the reserve you need.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e When you do glass correction with the FilzPad 125, always bring the glass up to temperature before you polish — cold glass reacts much more sluggishly to the polish. Don't lay the glass polish onto hot glass that's been baking in the sun, because it'll flash off far too fast. Aim for a glass temperature between 15 and 25 °C, for example by prepping in the shade. For windscreens, the rule is: always polish with the rear-window heater switched off and the side windows wound all the way down, so you don't cook the seals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFelt-pad technology in detail — why felt beats foam on glass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic difference between a \u003cstrong\u003eFilzPad 125\u003c\/strong\u003e and a foam pad is in the material structure. Foam is open- or closed-cell — it holds a lot of air and gives way under pressure. That makes foam pads ideal for controlled pressure spread on paint, because the pad follows contours and dampens the energy. Felt, on the other hand, is made of tightly woven or matted fibres with no real air pockets. It compresses only minimally under pressure and transfers the machine's energy straight onto the working area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat direct transfer is the decisive advantage on glass polishes: the abrasives in glass polish need a defined contact pressure to do their work. A foam pad that gives way under load drops that effective pressure and so cuts the polish's bite. The FilzPad 125 holds the pressure constant, which lets even the fine abrasive grains in the polish reach their full effect — even at low speeds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother technical plus: the felt's fibre texture spreads the abrasive differently to foam. Foam pulls polish into its pores and gives it back up under pressure and heat — which leads to uneven spread when the pressure shifts. Felt fibres have no pores: the polish stays on the surface of the fibres and gets spread evenly across the working zone. On glass that means fewer smears, more even polishing marks and a more predictable result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCleaning the FilzPad after use also works differently to foam. Felt mats up under heavy pressure or rubbing, which permanently changes the fibre structure and hurts performance. The right way: rinse the felt under running warm water and work the polish residue out by gently squeezing and flushing — never knead or wring it hard. After rinsing, let the pad dry flat on a clean cloth. If glass polish has dried in, a short soak in warm water before you flush the residue out does the trick. Well looked-after FilzPads keep their fibre structure over several jobs and deliver consistent results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 125 mm size matches standard backing plates for dual-action and rotary machines. The pad's hook-and-loop backing keeps it locked onto the backing plate and lets you swap pads fast, no tools. That matters especially on glass work, where you often switch between polishing stages — from a coarser sanding paste to a finer glass polish and finally to the clear-coat sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FilzPad 125 properly — work on glass, paint and metal\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor glass correction the FilzPad 125 is the first step on clouded windscreens, side windows with water-spot etching or rear windows with baked-in mineral deposits. Prep is more critical here than on paint: glass surfaces have to be cleaned thoroughly and clear of loose grit before you polish, because any foreign body between pad and glass causes instant scratches. A pre-treatment with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e strips residue and preps the surface perfectly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRun a lower speed on glass than you would on paint. Too high a speed builds heat, which lets the glass polish flash off too fast and cuts the working effect of the abrasive grains. For dual-action machines, speed 3–4 is a good starting point; for rotary machines, a moderate speed between 800 and 1200 rpm. Important: on glass, always work with plenty of polish — a dry FilzPad creates scratches that are far harder to remove on glass than on paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn paint the FilzPad 125 is reserved for heavy correction: deep oxidation layers, sanding marks after coarse wet sanding and extreme weathering. Always run it as the first stage in a multi-step correction, followed by a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad medium\u003c\/a\u003e for the intermediate stage and a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-weich-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad weich\u003c\/a\u003e for the hologram-free finish. Trying to clear the FilzPad's marks with just one follow-up stage risks an incomplete result on dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn metal polishes — say for alloy wheels, chrome trim or stainless add-on parts — the FilzPad 125 works too. The high cut lets you strip oxidation layers off metal, corrosion spots and dulled areas efficiently. For this job, SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish is the one to reach for, built specifically for metal polishing that needs heavy cut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlass correction with the FilzPad 125 — use cases and limits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FilzPad 125 is the right tool when conventional cleaning methods hit their limit. Clouded windscreens with washer-fluid deposits, mineral-salt spots and UV greying are the classic case: an ordinary glass cleaner won't shift these deposits, because they've chemically worked their way into the glass surface. The FilzPad's mechanical abrasion with a suitable glass polish breaks these bonds physically — without damaging the screen, as long as the process is done right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWindscreens with heavy wiper marks are another common job. After long use, wiper blades leave spiral scoring in the glass that shows up annoyingly in backlight. With the FilzPad 125 and a fine-grain glass polish you can clearly reduce or fully remove these surface flaws in many cases. The result: better vision on night drives and in low-angle sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FilzPad's limits are on coated glass surfaces. Hydrophobic coatings on windscreens — the kind various makers apply — get damaged or fully stripped by the FilzPad's abrasion. If you want to keep a coating like that, leave the FilzPad alone and pick alternative cleaning methods. The same goes for tinted windows with film: the film sits on the inside of the glass and must not be machine-worked.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicles with plastic windows — older convertibles with polycarbonate rear screens, say, or certain van windscreens — the FilzPad 125 works too, but it needs particularly careful pressure control. Plastic glazing is softer than mineral glass and reacts more sensitively to overheating from mechanical pressure. Here you run lower speeds and ease off the pressure more often than on real glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you work side windows, take extra care at the edges. The sealing lip on the door frame can be damaged by the spinning FilzPad — either through direct contact or through polish that creeps into the seal and softens the material. Pros mask the seal areas before glass work with painter's tape and polish only up to the masking. That prevents damage and keeps the working area defined.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe FilzPad 125 compared — when felt, when foam, when a LammwollPad\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePicking the right pad always comes down to the substrate and the correction goal. The FilzPad 125 is the call when you need high cut and the surface won't be damaged by heat or pressure — so on glass and metal, or on paint only for extreme corrections. For standard paint work the foam-pad system from the SONAX PROFILINE range is the better base: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad hart\u003c\/a\u003e for heavy-cut work, the SchaumPad medium for medium corrections, the SchaumPad weich for the hologram-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-lammwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eLammwollPad\u003c\/a\u003e offers similar cut to the FilzPad on paint, but behaves fundamentally differently: lambswool fibres have a natural spring that pulls heat away better and spreads the cut more evenly across larger panels. For heavy-cut on paint the LammwollPad is therefore often the better call than the FilzPad. The FilzPad, on the other hand, beats the LammwollPad on glass, because its structural stiffness optimises pressure spread on the hard glass surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor glass work there's no direct alternative to the FilzPad in the SONAX PROFILINE range — it's the specialist pad for the job. If you do glass correction regularly, always keep a stock of FilzPads, since the abrasive process wears them down faster than foam pads on paint work. The twin pack is a practical starting point for the first buy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the FilzPad 125 — which shops and use cases it pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FilzPad 125 pays off for any shop that offers glass correction as a service. Clouded windscreens, side windows with water-spot etching and baked-in mineral deposits are common customer requests that can't be sorted cleanly without the right polishing tool. With the FilzPad 125 and a quality glass polish you can offer this service professionally and reliably — and get results that clearly stand apart from plain glass cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers expanding their range with paint sealing after intensive paint correction, the FilzPad 125 is the first step on vehicles with heavily weathered paint. Combined with the cutting polishes from the SONAX PROFILINE range — the CutMax \"6\/4\" for extreme corrections, say — the FilzPad allows an aggressive first cut before the further correction stages on foam work out the final result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor workshops that recondition vehicles after hail damage or accident repair, the FilzPad 125 is a relevant tool too: glass and paint work after mechanical damage often needs a mix of heavy cutting and follow-up fine correction. The twin pack of two FilzPads keeps the work flowing here, with no breaks for pad swaps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more note on shop efficiency: if you run the FilzPad 125 regularly, keep an eye on wear. Felt wears faster from the heavy abrasion of glass work than foam does on paint polishing — the fibres flatten and the pressure transfer goes uneven. A simple test: lay the pad on a flat surface and run a finger over it. If the felt surface has gone uneven or noticeably thinner, it's time for a new pad. Renewing regularly isn't a cost question but a quality one — a worn FilzPad gives worse results and longer working times.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTo round out a complete glass-correction kit, pair the FilzPad with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eGlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e for the pre-clean and a glass sealant for final protection. The full package of cleaning, polishing with the FilzPad and sealing afterwards is the professional answer to everything around glass correction — and it pays off both for reconditioning shops with high glass throughput and for detailers who selectively treat vehicles with badly loaded screens. The SONAX PROFILINE system makes sure all products work together: do the pre-clean with PROFILINE products, work the glass polish with the FilzPad and pick the sealant from the PROFILINE range, and you get a consistent result with no compatibility issues between the individual steps.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"2 pieces","offer_id":57345156022607,"sku":"D1-SNX-4933000","price":12.72,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-filzpad-125_2-stueck.png?v=1774736583"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-hybridwollpad-wollpad","title":"PROFILINE HybridWollPad wool pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eAggressive cut, soft surface — SONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is a HybridWollPad and what do you use it for? The hybrid wool pad pairs a virgin-wool face with a foam core — the wool side delivers maximum cut for stubborn paint defects, while the foam core keeps the pressure spread evenly and the heat down.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWool pads have been known in professional correction for decades as the most aggressive cutting tool out there: the wool fibres, with their rough surface and high flex, deliver the strongest mechanical cut you can get from a polishing pad — well beyond any foam pad. But classic pure wool pads have a weak spot: without a foam core they transfer machine pressure unevenly and, used carelessly, build up local hot spots. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad\u003c\/strong\u003e brings the best of both worlds together: a virgin-wool face for maximum cut and a foam core for even pressure spread and better heat dissipation. Available in Ø80 mm, Ø125 mm and Ø165 mm for every machine and job format.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut from the virgin-wool face for the heaviest paint defects.\u003c\/strong\u003e The virgin-wool fibres of the HybridWollPad create very high mechanical abrasion thanks to their natural structure: on badly weathered paint, deep oxidation and class B machine-marring holograms come off efficiently. The wool structure pulls off a depth of correction you simply can't reach with classic foam pads — for heavy paint defects, the wool pad is your first pick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFoam core for even pressure spread and controlled work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The pad's hybrid build protects the paint from local overheating: the foam core under the wool face spreads the machine's pressure evenly across the whole working face. That avoids the \"hot spots\" classic wool pads are known for — local overheating points that can damage the clear coat. The result is a cut you can actually control, manageable even for seasoned detailers with less wool-pad mileage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree sizes for every machine format and job.\u003c\/strong\u003e The HybridWollPad comes in Ø80 mm for mini orbitals and detail work, Ø125 mm for standard orbitals and compact rotaries, and Ø165 mm for large-area polishing on bonnets, roofs and sides. Pick the size by the job: small pads for tight spots and edges, big pads for fast coverage on large panels.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The HybridWollPad gives its best cut at medium machine speed (1,200–1,600 rpm on the rotary) with moderate pressure. More pressure doesn't mean more cut — the wool pad cuts through the fibres, not through the pressure. Blow the pad out with a stiff brush at idle after every panel to clear polishing residue from the wool tufts. Wool pads don't reuse as often as foam pads — plan on 1–2 pads per vehicle when you prep your kit. After the job, wash it out thoroughly in lukewarm water with a mild cleaner and let it dry flat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybridWollPad technology — virgin wool, foam core and cutting behaviour\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eHybridWollPad\u003c\/strong\u003e uses virgin wool — shorn animal wool — as its polishing material. Virgin wool has a naturally scaled fibre structure (the so-called scale build-up of the wool hair) that makes microscopic cutting movements as you polish. These fibre scales bite into the top layer of clear coat and abrade it away through mechanical action — much like sandpaper, but with far finer grit and more flex. The flex of the wool tufts keeps the fibres from leaving rigid scratches in the paint — the tufts spring back on contact and produce a more even cut than rigid abrasives.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam core of the hybrid build does several jobs: it spreads the polisher's pressure across the whole pad, prevents pressure peaks over high spots on the paint, and cushions the wool face against the surface. That cushioning makes the HybridWollPad far safer to use than pure wool pads without a foam core — especially on curved surfaces like fenders and bumpers, where a stiff pad easily catches an edge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common question is how to clean wool pads after use: wool pads soak up more polishing residue than foam pads and need a more thorough clean afterwards. The best result comes from soaking in lukewarm water with a mild wool detergent for 15–20 minutes, then gently squeezing (don't wring!) and drying flat. Washing it out too aggressively or spinning it in the machine damages the wool structure and cuts down the cut on the next job. Wool pads cared for properly last several vehicles; mishandled ones lose their fibre properties after just 2–3 jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridWollPad's cut beats the hardest foam pad: where a hard foam pad with a heavy-cut polish needs several passes, the HybridWollPad is often done in one. That makes the wool pad especially worthwhile on badly weathered vehicles where time is the most precious factor. For normal details with light to medium holograms, though, the wool pad is overkill — here the cut of the foam pads is plenty and easier to control.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the HybridWollPad — polish pairing, machine and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridWollPad is built for heavy-cut polishes. The recommended pairing in the PROFILINE system is the HybridWollPad with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE UltimateCut \"6+\/3\"\u003c\/a\u003e — the strongest compounds in the range. These combos are made for vehicles with heavy P800-P1000 sanding marks, deep oxidation or strong holograms from machine pre-treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMachine choice: the HybridWollPad works on both rotaries and dual-action orbitals. On the rotary it gives the highest cut; on the orbital the cut drops a little, but the result is more even and the risk of heat damage lower. If you're new to professional correction, start with the HybridWollPad on the orbital before you move over to the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolish dosing on the wool pad: unlike foam pads, you put less polish on a wool pad. The wool structure pulls polish out of the paint and collects it in the fibres — too much polish overloads the pad, which cuts down the cut and makes residue harder to wipe off. A small cross of polish (instead of the 5-dot pattern you'd use on foam pads) is usually enough on wool pads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the HybridWollPad earns its keep — heavy paint defects, oxidation and first cut\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridWollPad is the tool for the heaviest correction jobs: badly weathered paint from years of neglect, oxidised surfaces on used vehicles, vehicles with sanding marks from coarse machine passes or strong holograms from automatic car washes. In every one of these cases, the wool pad removes the most material in the least time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor GRP work (glass-reinforced plastic on boats, caravans or motorbikes) the HybridWollPad fits too. GRP gelcoat weathers much like car paint — it oxidises and goes dull. With the wool pad and a suitable heavy-cut polish you can work oxidised gelcoat back efficiently and bring it to a high gloss. One thing to watch: GRP is thicker than car paint (1–5 mm instead of 80–150 µm) and tolerates more mechanical removal — but too much heat can damage GRP too. Moderate pressure and regular breaks are a must when you work GRP with the wool pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother special case for the wool pad is the first cut on multi-layer paint builds: vehicles with very thick original clear coats (over 80 µm) can barely shift enough material with normal cutting polishes on foam pads to reach deep-seated defects. The HybridWollPad with a heavy cutting polish gets the removal volume you need for that first cutting pass, which then runs on through several finer steps up to a high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad compared — wool pad vs. foam pad by cut needed\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the PROFILINE polishing pad range, the HybridWollPad is the pick for maximum cut, while the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SchaumPad hart\u003c\/a\u003e handles lighter to medium heavy-cut jobs. Choosing between the wool pad and the SchaumPad hart follows the severity of the defects: deep scratches, heavy oxidation and severe machine marring call for the wool pad; light holograms, normal wear and fresh paint on new vehicles are handled more efficiently with the SchaumPad hart, since the wool pad would take off more than you need here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the HybridWollPad pass you need a follow-up step with a medium foam pad and a finishing polish, or a soft foam pad with a high-gloss polish, to clear the fine wool-pad sanding marks out of the clear coat and finalise the gloss. The HybridWollPad is always the first step in a multi-stage process — never the last. Hand a car over straight off the wool pad and you leave the customer with paint that shows micro-scratches under raking light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad — size choice and job guide\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing businesses, a spread of sizes makes sense: Ø165 mm for large-area work on bonnets, roof and sides; Ø125 mm as the standard size for fenders, doors and details; Ø80 mm for tight spots like bumper edges and sills. The HybridWollPad is designed as part of the PROFILINE polishing system — it works best alongside the PROFILINE polishes and, in that pairing, delivers consistent, repeatable results on every correction pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses that run the HybridWollPad regularly, a dedicated pad-cleaning station pays off: a flat tray of warm water and wool detergent, where the used pad goes after every swap. At the end of the working day all the wool pads get cleaned at once and laid out to dry. This routine stops polish gel from drying into the wool tufts and clumping the fibres. Dried-in polishing residue in a wool pad is almost impossible to shift — the pad loses cut for good.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBecause wool pads wear out faster than foam pads after heavy use, regular detailing businesses are best stocking 3–5 pads per size. The high cut of the HybridWollPad earns its place on tough vehicles — on normal new and used cars without heavy paint defects, foam pads are the more economical pick.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø80 mm","offer_id":57345168933199,"sku":"D1-SNX-4940410","price":38.88,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø125 mm","offer_id":57345168965967,"sku":"D1-SNX-4938000","price":27.73,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø165 mm","offer_id":57345168998735,"sku":"D1-SNX-4941000","price":37.15,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-hybridwollpad_125-mm.png?v=1774736592"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-lammwollpad-wollpad","title":"PROFILINE Lambswool Pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMaximum cutting performance from natural wool — SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad do? The wool pad, made from genuine lambswool fibers, delivers maximum abrasive performance in combination with heavy-cut polishes for used car reconditioning — in Ø80 mm for eccentric and rotary machines, and in Ø125 mm for rotary use.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the polishing workflow, there are situations where foam or hybrid pads simply aren't enough: deeply ingrained scratches after sanding preparation with P800 to P1000, stubborn oxidation layers on weathered paints, holograms from previous machine polishes, or severe wash scratches on dark paint colors. For these cases, there is the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e — a wool pad made from genuine lambswool fibers that achieves cutting performance through its open, three-dimensional fiber structure that synthetic foam pads cannot replicate. The fiber structure of the lambswool interacts with the polish, creating mechanical abrasion on the paint surface while simultaneously retaining heat in the pad, allowing the abrasive particles of the polish to activate optimally. If you are regularly confronted with heavy-cut situations in your business, you cannot avoid the LambswoolPad — it is the strongest tool in the SONAX PROFILINE pad range for the initial correction phase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHighest cutting performance due to natural lambswool fibers for the first correction phase.\u003c\/strong\u003e Natural lambswool, with its wavy, three-dimensional fiber structure, creates mechanical abrasive performance that synthetic pads can hardly achieve. Deeply ingrained scratches after wet sanding with P800–P1200, heavy oxidation layers on weathered paints, and stubborn holograms from machine polishing are efficiently leveled in one step with the SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad. This saves time in the first correction phase and reduces the number of polishing steps required.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo sizes for different machine types — Ø80 mm and Ø125 mm.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad is available in Ø80 mm for use on smaller eccentric and rotary machines, and in Ø125 mm for standard rotary machines. The Ø80 mm pad is particularly suitable for details, edges, and hard-to-reach areas, while the Ø125 mm pad is for efficient processing of hoods, roofs, and large body surfaces. The hook-and-loop connection is designed for SONAX PROFILINE backing plates.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDurable wool with a robust foam core for professional continuous use.\u003c\/strong\u003e The LambswoolPad combines genuine lambswool fibers with a stable foam core that maintains the pad's shape even under the pressure of a rotary machine. Unlike pure wool pads without a core, the pad remains dimensionally stable even after many washes and does not shed fibers on the paint. For professional businesses with high pad throughput, the combination of washability and durability is a clear cost advantage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before first use, briefly break in the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e: Attach the pad to the machine, apply a thimbleful of polish to the pad, and distribute it over a 40x40 cm area with low speed (approx. 900–1,200 rpm for rotary) without pressure — this allows the wool fibers to soak up the polish, and the first working area will not be polished too dry. For heavily oxidized paint, we recommend applying the polish in small portions directly to the paint, not just on the pad — this extends the working time of the abrasives. After polishing, rinse the pad with a pad cleaning brush (pad washer or brush with water), do not let it dry, and then reuse it — wool works better when slightly damp. For combination with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish\u003c\/a\u003e on a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-klett-stutzteller-125-stutzteller\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Hook-and-Loop Backing Plate 125\u003c\/a\u003e, the system is optimally coordinated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting performance and material structure of the LambswoolPad — how lambswool creates mechanical abrasion\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe superior abrasive performance of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e compared to foam pads is explained by the physical properties of natural lambswool fibers: Each individual wool fiber is naturally spirally crimped — this crimp creates an open, three-dimensional pore structure within the mass of fibers. This structure fulfills several functions in the polishing process. First, the fiber structure deeply absorbs the polish and releases it in a controlled manner to the paint surface, ensuring even abrasive distribution. Second, the fibers microscopically engage with the abrasive particles of the polish, thereby increasing the effective contact area between the abrasive and the paint. Third, fiber friction generates heat, which activates the abrasive particles in break-down polishes — especially with SONAX PROFILINE high-cut polishes, this thermal activation is crucial for full abrasive performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe support foam under the wool fibers is designed for medium hardness, which makes the pad usable on both rotary and eccentric machines. In rotary use (typical: 800–1,400 rpm), the medium-hard support provides the necessary counter-pressure so that the wool fibers lie on the paint with sufficient force. In eccentric use, the support prevents the pad from deforming too much under the eccentric motion and polishing unevenly. The hook-and-loop backing on the reverse side is standardized and fits all common 80mm and 125mm backing plates with Velcro attachment — including the SONAX PROFILINE Hook-and-Loop Backing Plate 125 and compatible backing plates from other manufacturers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to synthetic cutting foam pads (orange or red), the LambswoolPad has a different working style: Foam cutting pads apply a more even, lenticular pressure to the paint — making them controllable and well suited for moderate corrections. Lambswool, on the other hand, works with the fiber tips and creates micro-punctual pressure, which is more efficient for maximum abrasion requirements. The difference is visible in a direct comparison after the first polishing round: On heavily oxidized paint or after P1000 sanding, the LambswoolPad shows significantly fewer remaining sanding marks after one round than a cutting foam pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication and Workflow — correctly using the SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe optimal workflow with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e begins with the right polish selection: The pad is designed for high-cut polishes with a high degree of abrasion — SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut 6+\/3, SONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish 5\/5, or SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 are typical partners. With finishing polishes (NP 03-06, PerfectFinish), the combination makes little sense — here, softer foam pads or finish pads are the better choice. The LambswoolPad is a tool for the correction phase, not for the finish phase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe working sequence with the LambswoolPad on a rotary machine: Mark off a working area of approximately 40x50 cm, apply 3–4 rice-grain-sized portions of polish to the paint, place the pad, and briefly work in the polish at low speed (approx. 800 rpm) until no dry spots are visible. Then increase the speed to the working range (typically 1,000–1,400 rpm depending on polish and paint) and make 3–5 even passes with light pressure. Afterward, reduce the speed, polish out any remaining polish, lift the pad, and check the result. If sanding marks are still visible, do a second round on the same area — with a fresh portion of polish. After polishing, wipe with a microfiber cloth and only then move to the next area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn eccentric machines (typically 12–15 mm eccentric), the LambswoolPad works with slightly lower abrasion than on a rotary, but is gentler on thin paints. The typical speed setting is 4,000–5,500 rpm, and the pressure is moderate. The advantage of eccentric use: The machine is more forgiving of beginner's mistakes when holding edges than a rotary, and the risk of burning through is significantly lower. For workshops that rarely work with rotary but still need higher abrasive performance than with foam pads, the LambswoolPad on an eccentric is a good compromise solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBetween polishing areas and before storing, regularly rinse the pad with a pad washer or a brush under running water. Polish residues in the wool fibers that dry out will gum up the fiber structure and noticeably reduce abrasive performance. Freshly cleaned and stored slightly damp, the pad remains immediately ready for the next session.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of application — when the SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad is the first choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e is not the first choice for every vehicle or every paint — it is the specialized tool for situations where medium pads are not sufficient. In daily detailing, these are mainly three scenarios: First, used car reconditioning with heavily neglected paints that have accumulated UV oxidation, wash scratches, and dirt deposits over years. These paints are typically matte or hazy, reflecting diffusely rather than specularly, and barely react to normal foam polishing combinations. The LambswoolPad quickly breaks up the surface and shows after the first polishing pass what paint depth is still present underneath.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe second main scenario is paint correction after wet sanding. If scratches or paint defects have been manually or machine wet sanded (typically P800–P1200), the sanding leaves coarse sanding marks that must be completely removed before fine polishing can begin. In this phase, the LambswoolPad on a rotary is the fastest tool: It works out the sanding marks in one or two passes and prepares the surface for finish polishing. Foam cutting pads would require significantly more passes for the same task.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe third scenario is holograms and swirl marks from previous machine polishes, where poor technique or incorrect pad combinations have left fine swirls in the paint. These holograms are particularly visible on dark, solid-color paints (black, dark gray, dark blue) and require genuine material removal, not just surface filling like a finish pad. The LambswoolPad with a Cut+Finish polish efficiently removes these holograms and leaves a clear base for the final sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHowever, caution is advised on sensitive paints (very thin factory layers, freshly painted surfaces, clear coat under 60 micrometers): The LambswoolPad with high-cut polish removes more paint per round than a foam pad. Before use, a paint thickness measurement should always be performed, and on thin paints, less pressure and lower speed should be used, or switch to the SONAX PROFILINE HybridWoolPad, which acts somewhat gentler.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eLambswoolPad vs. HybridWoolPad — the right wool pad for every detailing case\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE wool pad range offers two different approaches with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-hybridwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridWoolPad\u003c\/a\u003e, which differ specifically in their construction and application profile. The LambswoolPad consists exclusively of natural lambswool fibers and thus offers the maximum cutting performance in the SONAX PROFILINE pad range — it is designed for heavy-cut applications where the highest available material removal is required.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridWoolPad combines natural wool fibers with synthetic fibers to create a mixed material that mediates between the aggressive cutting performance of the pure wool pad and the controllability of a foam pad. For users who appreciate the advantages of a wool fiber structure (open texture, good polish absorption, heat generation) but do not need the full abrasive potential of the LambswoolPad, the HybridWoolPad is the right choice. It is suitable for moderate paint defects, light to moderate oxidation, and vehicles with normal care conditions — where a pure lambswool pad would be too aggressive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-weich-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamPad soft\u003c\/a\u003e, on the other hand, the positioning is clear: It is designed for the finishing phase after correction work — if you want to perform a final finishing pass with a fine polish after using the LambswoolPad, reach for the soft foam pad. The three-pad system of LambswoolPad (Heavy Cut) → FoamPad medium (intermediate polish, if necessary) → FoamPad soft (Finish) completely covers all correction phases from rough preliminary work to high-gloss final polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice, the following rule of thumb applies to pad selection: If the paint is heavily oxidized, shows coarse sanding marks after wet sanding, or has deep scratches (visible to the naked eye in glancing light) → LambswoolPad. If the paint has moderate wash scratches and swirls without deeper damage → HybridWoolPad. If the paint is in good basic condition and only needs refreshing and sealant preparation → FoamPad medium or soft. With this selection, the detailing workflow is clearly structured for every vehicle condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad — Sizes, Compatibility, and Recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e is available in two sizes: Ø80 mm and Ø125 mm. For professional businesses, it is recommended to keep both sizes in stock: The Ø125 mm pad is the working size for surface work on hoods, roofs, doors, and fenders — here, the size demonstrates its time efficiency and covers more surface per pass. The Ø80 mm pad is the detail size for depressions, edges, A-pillars, mirror housings, and all areas where a 125 mm pad is too large to work controllably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe hook-and-loop backing fits all SONAX PROFILINE backing plates with standard Velcro connection. For the Ø125 mm pad, the SONAX PROFILINE Hook-and-Loop Backing Plate 125 (M14 thread) is the direct system solution — it is designed for rotary machines with an M14 spindle and ensures a vibration-resistant connection that sits securely even at high speeds. For the Ø80 mm pad, an 80 mm compatible backing plate is required accordingly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine compatibility: The LambswoolPad in both sizes is suitable for rotary polishing machines and for eccentric machines. On a rotary machine (Rupes LHR, Flex PE, Makita PW5001C, or similar), it delivers its full cutting performance. On eccentric machines (Rupes BigFoot, Flex XFE, Bosch PEX), it also works, with slightly lower abrasive performance than on a rotary. Orbital machines (Flex XCE, Flex OE) are less suitable for wool pads in heavy-cut use, as the orbital motion interacts less efficiently with the fiber structure than the rotary motion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses that frequently perform heavy-cut polishing, we recommend having several LambswoolPads per size in stock: As soon as a pad is saturated (recognizable by the fact that it barely glides on the paint when applied, but \"drags\"), it should be replaced with a fresh one. A saturated pad no longer polishes optimally — it smears rather than grinds. With two to three pads per size in use, the pace can be maintained on long detailing days without having to wait for slow pad cleaning: Attach and polish with one pad, rinse and dry the other — alternating.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø80 mm","offer_id":57345169129807,"sku":"D1-SNX-4941410","price":24.59,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø125 mm","offer_id":57345169162575,"sku":"D1-SNX-4931410","price":15.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-lammwollpad_125-mm.png?v=1774736616"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE Foam Pad Hard Polishing Pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMaximum Cut for Weathered Paint — SONAX PROFILINE FoamPad hard\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is a hard polishing pad used for in professional applications? A hard polishing pad like the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamPad hard\u003c\/strong\u003e maximizes the cutting performance of the polish used — it removes more paint layers than softer pads, making it the right tool for heavily weathered clear coat, severe holograms, and oxidized surfaces.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn paint preparation, the combination of polish and polishing pad significantly determines the result: The same cutting polish delivers significantly less abrasive power on a soft pad than on a hard pad. Anyone who wants to efficiently remove severe paint defects — deep-set holograms, oxidation, deep scratches down to the clear coat — needs the right pad configuration. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamPad hard\u003c\/strong\u003e is designed for this: a high-density, open-pore foam polishing pad that brings the cutting power of polishes like PROFILINE CutMax to full effect. Available in Ø75 mm and Ø150 mm for all common polishing machines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cutting performance due to high foam density and open-pore structure.\u003c\/strong\u003e The high foam density of the FoamPad hard ensures that the pad yields little during polishing and the polish is pressed onto the paint surface with constant pressure. At the same time, the open-pore structure allows for even distribution and release of the polish over the entire working surface. The result is a controllable, even cut — without local overheating or uneven abrasion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLong service life due to center cooling and good ventilation.\u003c\/strong\u003e Hard polishing generates heat — a problem for inexpensive pads that deform or decompose at high temperatures. The FoamPad hard is equipped with special center cooling and an open ventilation structure that prevents heat buildup. This significantly extends the service life of the pad and allows for polishing multiple vehicles without damaging the pad or causing swirl marks in the paint due to overheating.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eQuick change and precise handling due to Velcro fastening and beveled edge.\u003c\/strong\u003e In daily operations, every minute counts: The Velcro fastening of the FoamPad hard allows for pad changes in seconds, without tools and without interrupting the workflow. The beveled foam edge improves handling on edges, corners, and hard-to-reach areas — a detail that makes the difference between a clean result and an unpolished edge zone, especially when polishing fenders, door edges, and spoilers.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e When using the FoamPad hard, panel polishing is recommended: Always work on only one panel (hood, roof, side) per pass, not the entire body at once. The pad releases the polish more evenly if it is not left too long between moistening and removal. After 2–3 panels, clean the pad with a soft pad brush or a short burst of compressed air — this prevents baked-on polish residues that can create micro-scratches when polishing further. After work: soak for 30 minutes in warm water with PROFILINE Microfibre Wash, wring out, and air dry flat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTechnology of the FoamPad hard — Foam Density, Open-Pore Structure, and Cutting Behavior\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cutting power of a polishing pad system results from the interaction of three factors: the hardness of the pad, the open-pore structure of the foam, and the abrasive power of the polish used. The \u003cstrong\u003eFoamPad hard\u003c\/strong\u003e is designed for maximum pad intensity — it is the hardest foam pad in the PROFILINE range and thus the right pad for heavy-cut polishes such as the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" Abrasive Polish\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut \"6+\/3\"\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe open-pore foam structure of the FoamPad hard has two functions: Firstly, the open-pore structure stores larger quantities of polish and releases it evenly and continuously over the working surface — without over-flooding the paint surface or creating dry spots. Secondly, the open-pore structure allows for better heat dissipation than closed-cell foams: Heat generated during the polishing process is dissipated through the pores instead of being stored in the pad. Together with the special cooling zone in the center of the pad, this creates a system that remains controllable even during prolonged polishing and does not endanger the paint due to local overheating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for practical use: A hard pad increases the cut, but there are also limits. On freshly polished, thin clear coat or on vehicles with factory base coat without clear coat, the FoamPad hard should only be used with reduced machine settings. The pad itself does not provide feedback on the remaining clear coat thickness — paint thickness measurement before polishing is mandatory, not optional, for heavy cutting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying the FoamPad hard — Polish Combination, Machine, and Polishing Technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FoamPad hard is suitable for all common polishing machines: rotary polishers, orbital polishers, and dual-action machines. The optimal machine choice depends on the application: For maximum cut on heavily weathered paint, a rotary polisher with the FoamPad hard is recommended, as rotary machines produce more abrasion at the same RPMs than orbital machines. For more even, safer work on normal new car holograms, an orbital polisher with the FoamPad hard offers a good compromise between cutting performance and controllability.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolish distribution on the pad is crucial for the result. The \"5-point pattern\" is recommended: four small dots of polish at the corners of the working area and one in the center. Then, with the machine turned off, briefly spread the polish on the paint surface before starting the machine — this prevents the polish from splattering when turned on. The machine speed for the FoamPad hard should be between 1,200 and 1,800 RPM, depending on the polish and paint hardness; very hard paints (Japanese vehicles) require higher speeds, softer paints (French, British manufacturers) respond better to lower speeds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing: Immediately clean the pad of polish residues with a soft pad brush. Baked-on polish in the pad creates uneven cut on the next use and can leave grooves in the paint. If you are working with several pads simultaneously, you can switch between panels and clean the other pad at your leisure — this increases working speed and maintains consistent pad quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of Application for the FoamPad hard — Weathered Paint, Oxidation, and GRP Surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application range of the FoamPad hard includes three main areas: heavily weathered car paint, oxidized surfaces, and GRP (Glass Fiber Reinforced Plastic). Heavily weathered paint — typical of vehicles that have been exposed to the elements for years without sealant — shows dull, rough surfaces with deep holograms and UV damage in the clear coat. Here, a high cutting volume is necessary to abrade the damaged clear coat surface and expose underlying, still intact material. The FoamPad hard is precisely designed for this work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOxidized paints — particularly common on older vehicles or on plastic parts such as bumpers — have lost their surface molecular structure due to UV radiation. The dull, sometimes chalky-looking surface can only be restored with an aggressive polishing pad and a cutting polish. The FoamPad hard in combination with PROFILINE CutMax is the recommended system solution for this work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGRP surfaces — boat hulls, motorcycles, caravans, sports vehicles — place special demands: GRP tolerates less overheating than car paint, but reacts similarly to mechanical abrasion. The FoamPad hard is approved for GRP and delivers good results on these surfaces when the machine settings are chosen conservatively (medium speed, light pressure).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFoamPad hard in Comparison — Polishing Pad Hardness Grades in the PROFILINE System\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the PROFILINE polishing pad range, the FoamPad hard stands at the top for cutting performance. For comparison: The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamPad medium\u003c\/a\u003e is less hard and combines medium cutting performance with more gloss potential — it is suitable for one-step polishes or medium defects. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-weich-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamPad soft\u003c\/a\u003e is the pure finishing pad: very little cut, maximum gloss — exclusively for finishing polishes like PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" without previous defects.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe choice between hardness grades follows a simple rule: the more severe the paint defects, the harder the pad and the more aggressive the polish. Performing a three-step process (Step 1: remove deep scratches with hard + CutMax; Step 2: remove holograms with medium + Cut+Finish; Step 3: finalize with soft + NP) achieves the best result. For simpler cases, a two-step process or even a one-step pass with the medium pad is sufficient.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn addition to the FoamPads, the PROFILINE system also includes the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hard\u003c\/a\u003e — a similarly hard pad, but with special adaptation to the movement of orbital machines. Those who work exclusively with orbital machines should consider the ExzenterPad hard; those who work with rotary polishers or multiple machine types will find the FoamPad hard to be a flexible solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE FoamPad hard — Variants, System Combination, and Recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe PROFILINE FoamPad hard is available in two variants: Ø75 mm for smaller backing plates and precise work on small panels, corners, and bumper details — and Ø150 mm for large-area use on hoods, roofs, and sides. For a complete polishing workstation, a set of several pads of both sizes is recommended: this allows for switching between panels without having to wait for clean pads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ideal system combination for severe defects: FoamPad hard Ø150 mm + PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" on the rotary or orbital polisher for the first cutting pass. Then, with FoamPad medium + PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" for medium polishing, and finally with FoamPad soft + PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" for the high-gloss finish. This three-stage product chain is fully represented in the PROFILINE range — all components are coordinated and deliver reproducible results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing businesses, a supply of at least 4–6 FoamPads hard of each size is recommended: This allows for always starting with a fresh pad, while used pads are refreshed during night-time cleaning. The PROFILINE polishing pad system pays off for businesses with high vehicle throughput due to its long service life and consistent cutting performance, which prevents costly rework due to uneven results.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø75 mm","offer_id":57345169654095,"sku":"D1-SNX-4921410","price":24.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø5.9 inches","offer_id":57345169686863,"sku":"D1-SNX-4922410","price":10.05,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart_150-mm.png?v=1774736662"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE Foam Pad medium polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMedium Cut Performance with Optimal Control — SONAX PROFILINE FoamPad medium\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a medium-hard polishing pad achieve, and when is it the right choice? The medium-hard FoamPad from SONAX's PROFILINE range is the most versatile pad in the polishing system — it delivers sufficient cutting power for most signs of wear and holograms, leaves finer residue marks than a hard pad, and is suitable for both rotary and orbital polishers.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen selecting pads for paint preparation, many users face the question of whether to choose an aggressive cutting pad or a gentle finishing pad. For the vast majority of preparation tasks, the answer lies somewhere in the middle — and this middle ground is precisely what the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamPad medium\u003c\/strong\u003e occupies. A medium-hard foam pad delivers enough cutting power to remove normal holograms, fine scratches from car washes, and light oxidation, without being so aggressive that residue marks require a complex follow-up step. The FoamPad medium is the pad that suffices as the only cutting pad in 70–80% of all vehicle detailing jobs. Available in Ø75 mm for rotary polishers and Ø150 mm for standard orbital machines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium foam hardness for a wide range of applications between cut and finish.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FoamPad medium fills the gap between the aggressive FoamPad hard and the gentle FoamPad soft: It is hard enough to remove holograms and water spot marks, yet soft enough that the residue marks in the clear coat are so fine that a single finishing pass with a soft pad completely eliminates them. In easily accessible cases with light contamination and modern, easy-to-polish clear coat formulations, no finishing step is even necessary after the FoamPad medium — directly to sealing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVersatile for use on rotary and orbital polishers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Ø75 mm pad is designed for the smaller backing plate of rotary polishers; the Ø150 mm pad for standard DA orbital machines. This division allows the same concept — medium-hard foam structure for balanced cut\/finish performance — to be transferred to both machine types. The medium pad achieves slightly more cut on the rotary polisher due to higher rotational energy than on the orbital; on the orbital, the application is safer for beginners because overheating risks are minimized by the randomized stroke.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEconomical all-round solution for businesses with a mixed vehicle fleet.\u003c\/strong\u003e Not every vehicle needs a hard cutting pad, and not every vehicle can be sufficiently treated with a pure finishing pad. A medium-hard pad as standard equipment in the shop reduces complexity: For new vehicles without severe defects, the FoamPad medium is sufficient as the sole processing pad; for vehicles with light to medium defects, it is the primary cutting pad; only for heavily damaged paints is the FoamPad hard or the HybridWollPad used. This staggered system saves pad changing time in the shop.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The FoamPad medium is excellent for the one-step approach on modern vehicles: Combine cut and finish in a single pass with a cut+finish polish (like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" One-Step Polish\u003c\/a\u003e) on the FoamPad medium — this saves time compared to the two-step process and delivers very good results on modern soft clear coat formulations. This approach works particularly well on vehicles from the last 10 years with good factory condition and normal signs of use. For heavily damaged paints or vehicles with deep sanding marks, the multi-step process with FoamPad hard for the first cutting pass remains the more reliable approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFoamPad medium Foam Structure — Medium-hard Cell Structure and Polishing Behavior\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam hardness of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamPad medium\u003c\/strong\u003e lies between the values of the FoamPad hard and FoamPad soft: a medium-open cell structure that offers sufficient resistance to bring abrasive particles in the polishing compound to the paint surface with effective cutting energy, but at the same time shows enough flexibility to evenly cover contoured surfaces like fender curves and door panels. This balance between stiffness and adaptability is what makes the medium-hard pad the most versatile polishing pad in the entire PROFILINE range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cell structure of the FoamPad medium is designed to release polish evenly from the interior of the foam to the polishing front — an effect that foam pad technicians refer to as the \"reservoir effect\": the foam absorbs polish during the initial application and continuously releases it outwards during polishing. This leads to a more even distribution of polish over the entire panel surface than if the polish were only on the pad surface. This effect is particularly noticeable on larger panels like hoods and roofs: The cutting performance remains more consistent throughout the entire panel pass than with a completely closed-cell hard pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rebound resilience — i.e., how quickly the foam returns to its shape after compression — is designed for medium machine frequencies with the FoamPad medium. This makes it compatible with both rotary polishers (constant rotation frequency) and DA orbital polishers (randomized stroke frequency), without performing significantly worse for either machine type. This machine agnosticism is a practical advantage in operations where different machine types are used and pads are not to be sorted machine-specifically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for practical use: Briefly moisten new FoamPads medium before the first use and \"break them in\" once — the first few seconds on the first panel are for conditioning the foam, after which the pad operates at its full performance level. This brief break-in step ensures that the foam core absorbs the polish evenly and the reservoir effect works from the start. An unconditioned new pad will absorb polish in the first few passes without releasing enough onto the paint surface — the result is an uneven first panel that does not provide a realistic assessment of the pad-polish combination.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn aspect often underestimated with medium-hard pads: The effective cutting performance of a FoamPad medium is highly dependent on the cutting strength of the polish used. With a heavy-cut polish like the CutMax \"6\/4\", the FoamPad medium delivers surprisingly much cut — sufficient for many medium-heavy preparation tasks without having to switch to the aggressive FoamPad hard. With a lighter finish polish, the cut is reduced accordingly to a finish level. The user thus has a direct influence on the effective cut\/finish ratio through the choice of polish — an advantage that a hard or soft pad does not offer with this flexibility.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication of the FoamPad medium — Polish Selection, Machine Technique and Pad Care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most versatile application combination for the FoamPad medium in the PROFILINE system is the medium-hard pad with a one-step polish like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\"\u003c\/a\u003e — this combination covers the broad middle ground of detailing tasks. For vehicles with more severe defects, the FoamPad medium with the CutMax \"6\/4\" is recommended as a first step, followed by a FoamPad soft with a finish polish for the final high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMachine choice and speed: On the rotary polisher, the FoamPad medium works optimally at 900–1,200 rpm — sufficient rotational energy for effective cutting performance without excessive heat generation. On the DA orbital polisher, the medium power level (level 3–4) is the correct setting to keep the medium-hard foam material in its optimal working range. Too low a speed leads to \"smearing\" — the polish is distributed but not effectively converted into cutting performance. Too high a speed on the rotary polisher generates more friction heat than is optimal for normal clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolish dosage on the FoamPad medium: The 5-dot pattern (center + four edge dots) is the standard method for even distribution. Important: Do not apply too much polish — an oversaturated pad smears instead of cutting. The rule of thumb: It is better to start with little and add more if necessary than to start with too much polish and have to wipe the panel multiple times. A well-conditioned FoamPad medium shows an even abrasion film on the working surface after polishing — no excess, no dry area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePad care after use: Clean the FoamPad medium after each vehicle with a pad spinner or a pad washer, not just at the end of the entire workday. Dried polish in the open cell structure changes the rebound properties and reduces the reservoir effect. Daily soaking in lukewarm water with a mild cleaning agent, gentle squeezing, and flat drying maintains the pad's properties over many uses. With proper care, medium-hard foam pads last 80–120 vehicles before replacement is necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of Application for the FoamPad medium — Vehicle Types, Paint Condition and Polishing Scenarios\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FoamPad medium is the right pad for: vehicles from the last 5–10 years with normal signs of use (holograms from washing, dust streaks), slightly weathered paints on vehicles that have not been polished for 3–5 years, new car detailing with minor transport damage, and one-step detailing on vehicles where time efficiency is important (dealership entry-level detailing, mobile detailing for customers).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FoamPad medium is less suitable for: vehicles with deep sanding marks from coarse sandpaper (P800 or finer), heavily oxidized paints with a dull, chalky white surface, and vehicles where clear cutting marks from a coarse machine sanding process need to be removed. In these cases, the FoamPad hard or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-hybridwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad\u003c\/a\u003e is necessary for the first cutting pass — the medium-hard pad then takes over as a second step to eliminate the residue marks from the heavy cutting pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA particularly valuable niche for the FoamPad medium: headlight restoration. Yellowed or tarnished polycarbonate headlight lenses can be brightened in a few passes with the FoamPad medium and a suitable headlight polish. The medium-hard pad effectively abrades the tarnished polycarbonate without being too aggressive and cutting deep scratches into the clear coat-like lens material. For headlight restoration, the small Ø75 mm pad (rotary format) or a separate mini-pad is practical for easily reaching the flat headlight geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional operation, the FoamPad medium is recommended as standard equipment in multiple quantities: At least 3–5 pads per size for a full workday with vehicle changes. The strategy of \"one pad per vehicle with daily cleaning\" is more sensible for medium-hard pads than for hard pads, as the medium pad fully retains its properties with proper daily cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFoamPad medium in Comparison — Classification in the PROFILINE Polishing Pad System\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the PROFILINE polishing pad portfolio, the FoamPad medium occupies the central position: The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamPad hard\u003c\/a\u003e (and the HybridWollPad) stand for maximum cutting performance when high material removal is needed; the FoamPad medium for the broad middle ground of all preparation scenarios; the FoamPad soft for finish polishes on already well-worked paint with no significant residual material removal needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA direct comparison with the FoamPad hard clarifies the practical differences: The hard pad generates approximately 30–40% more material removal than the medium-hard pad at the same pressure and machine speed — a difference that becomes clearly visible when polishing under strip lighting. This increased cut is the decisive difference for heavily damaged paints; for normal signs of use, it merely means more residue marks in the paint, which require an additional finishing pass. The medium-hard pad is the more efficient choice in these cases: One pass is often sufficient to both eliminate defects and achieve a good finish result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference between the FoamPad medium and the FoamPad soft lies primarily in the application strategy: The soft pad is exclusively suitable for the last finishing phase after a cutting pass or for sensitive paints with very low cutting requirements — without a preceding cutting pass, a soft pad will not completely remove holograms. The medium-hard pad, on the other hand, can be used as both a cutting and finishing pad in most cases, depending on the polish chosen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE FoamPad medium — Sizes, Planning, and Professional Portfolio\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor most detailing businesses, the FoamPad medium is the pad with the highest consumption in the range — because it is the first choice for most vehicles and tasks. The Ø150 mm format for DA orbital machines is the standard format used in modern detailing businesses that primarily work with orbital polishers. The Ø75 mm format is for businesses with rotary polishers and for special detail tasks such as headlight restoration and tight areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor inventory planning: For a workday with 3–5 vehicles, at least 6–10 FoamPads medium should be kept in sufficient quantity to always have a fresh or cleaned pad available. Rotating several pads simultaneously — one pad polishing, another cleaning itself in the pad spinner — allows for smoother work without waiting times throughout the entire vehicle list. For businesses that use the medium-hard pad daily, a stock of 10–15 pads of each size is recommended — this also covers the needs for several weeks without reordering, even with the wear and tear of individual pads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FoamPad medium in the PROFILINE system is always conceived as part of a complete polishing pad portfolio: In combination with the FoamPad hard for heavy heavy-cut tasks and the FoamPad soft for the final high-gloss finish, a complete, clearly graduated three-stage polishing system is created, which provides the right answer for all paint conditions and tasks — from heavily damaged used vehicles to new vehicles with minimal signs of use. As a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 permanently carries the FoamPad medium in both sizes in its range and ensures that it is also available for reorders during ongoing operations.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø75 mm","offer_id":57345169850703,"sku":"D1-SNX-4985000","price":24.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø150 mm","offer_id":57345169883471,"sku":"D1-SNX-4985410","price":10.05,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium_150-mm.png?v=1774736669"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-schaumpad-weich-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE Foam Pad soft Polishing Pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-Free Finish Polishing with the SONAX PROFILINE Soft Foam Pad\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX PROFILINE Soft Foam Pad special? The soft, fine-pored foam pad allows for machine finish polishing without holograms — ideal for delicate paints, beginner corrections, and final touch-ups after more aggressive polishing stages.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the final phase of paint correction, the pad often matters more than the polish. If holograms, swirls, or machine marks are left behind after a heavy-cut treatment, the actual work step is lost — and you have to start over. This is exactly where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Soft Foam Pad\u003c\/strong\u003e is indispensable: a fine-pored finish pad made of open-cell foam that distributes polish residues evenly, dissipates heat in a controlled manner, and causes no new damage even on sensitive clear coat surfaces. It combines minimal cutting performance with maximum smoothness — turning a technically solid paint correction into a high-quality finish result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine-pored foam structure for a hologram-free finish.\u003c\/strong\u003e The open-cell soft foam of the Soft Foam Pad generates less shear force than hard or medium pads. Polish is distributed evenly over a larger contact surface, largely preventing the formation of machine marks and holograms. This difference is clearly visible in oblique light, especially on dark paints — black, dark blue, anthracite.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOptimal heat dissipation for temperature-sensitive paints.\u003c\/strong\u003e Even at low pressure settings, orbital sanders generate localized heat. The soft foam yields under pressure, preventing heat build-up in a small area. This protects against temporary paint softening, which can otherwise lead to uneven polishing marks. This property is crucial, especially for thin-walled plastic components or repainted areas.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUniversally applicable — from finish polishing to sealant preparation.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Soft Foam Pad not only functions as the last correction step after a hard or medium cut but also as a direct application pad for finish polishes without prior correction. On new or only slightly worn paint, it can be used immediately — without taking the detour through more aggressive pad stages.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1 Pro Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before the first use, lightly moisten the Soft Foam Pad with water and squeeze out any excess moisture. A minimally moistened pad absorbs the polish more evenly and prevents dry foam from immediately soaking up the polish before it can act on the paint surface. Always start the orbital polisher on the paint — never in the air — to avoid polish splatters on the bodywork.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSoft Foam for Paint Finish — How the Fine-Pored Pad Technology Works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolyurethane foam is not all the same. What hard and soft actually mean in a polishing pad depends on the pore size, cell structure, and Shore hardness of the foam. The \u003cstrong\u003eSoft Foam Pad\u003c\/strong\u003e uses an open-cell foam structure with small, evenly distributed pores — significantly finer than the Hard Foam Pad, which works with coarser cells and thus generates more shear force. This finer structure has direct effects on the polishing result: polish is not applied in spots but distributed evenly over the entire working surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother advantage lies in its damping properties. During machine polishing, the pad acts as a buffer between the orbital disc and the paint surface. A soft foam more strongly cushions the orbits of the eccentric movement — the pad does not rest rigidly on the surface but \"follows\" slight contours, edges, and curves better than a hard counterpart. For polishing work on bumpers, door edges, or mirrors, this means even pressure without over-processing at the edges.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe connection to the backing plate is made via a hook-and-loop compatible backing, which is compatible with common SONAX PROFILINE orbital backing plates and support plates. The 75 mm diameter fits smaller orbital discs and is ideal for precision work on small areas such as A-pillars, fuel filler caps, or door openings. The 160 mm variant is the standard application area on large bodywork surfaces such as bonnets, roofs, and doors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA frequently underestimated aspect is heat behavior. Soft foam has a higher internal surface area and can distribute heat better through the pad volume than compact materials. During fast work steps with high orbital frequency, friction heat is generated at the contact surface between paint and pad. A soft pad dissipates this heat more evenly instead of concentrating it. This is why, on sensitive solid paints or when working in summer, the soft foam is often the safer choice compared to a medium pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrect Use of the Soft Foam Pad — Workflow from First Contact to Hologram-Free Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe crucial step before the actual polishing work is the priming phase. Squeeze a hazelnut-sized amount of finish polish onto the Soft Foam Pad, centered on the orbital backing plate, and spread it roughly by hand over an area about the size of an A4 sheet. Then start the orbital polisher at level 1 and distribute the polish without pressure over the surface before increasing speed and pressure. This first pass \"saturates\" the pad and ensures that it no longer absorbs polish into its pores — instead, it will now release it evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor finish polishes such as the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" High-Gloss Polish\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP \"03-06\" High-Gloss Polish\u003c\/a\u003e, a speed range of level 3–4 is recommended for typical dual-action orbital polishing machines. Higher speeds generate more heat and thus slightly more cutting performance, but also increase the risk of holograms on dark-tinted paints. The rule of thumb: rather slow and multiple times than fast and once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Soft Foam Pad is also suitable as the last step after a multi-stage paint correction. If the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eHard Foam Pad\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-lammwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eLambswool Pad\u003c\/a\u003e was used previously, the final pass with the soft pad and a pure finish polish ensures that all remaining sanding marks from the previous stage are removed. This \"finishing run\" is standard in professional detailing shops and often the difference between a mediocre and an impeccable result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing, the pad should be cleaned immediately. Polish residues dry hard in the foam and permanently alter the pad structure. Cleaning with warm water and a mild special detergent preserves the pores of the soft foam permanently. Cleaning in lukewarm water with light squeezing is recommended — no wringing, as this damages the open-cell structure. The pad should be air-dried flat on a clean cloth, never in the sun or on a radiator.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHologram-Free Finish Polishing — Use Cases and Limitations of the Soft Foam Pad\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe strength of the Soft Foam Pad clearly lies in the finish area. For new paints that only show slight transport scratches or superficial wash marks, it can be used directly with a finish polish without a prior cutting stage. This saves time, protects the paint, and is sufficient for most vehicles that are regularly maintained and do not have deep paint damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Soft Foam Pad works particularly impressively on metallics and pearl effect paints. Due to their embedded metallic or mica particles, these paint types are more susceptible to scattered light effects that can result from overly aggressive polishing methods. The low shear force of the soft pad ensures that the alignment of the effect particles is maintained and the look after polishing corresponds to the original condition. Anyone who has ever seen a metallic paint lose its luster with a gray haze after an overly aggressive treatment knows why this property is so important.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the same time, there are honest limitations: deeper scratches, oxidation damage, or wet sanding marks from grit P1500 will not be completely removed with the Soft Foam Pad. Here, a cutting stage is first necessary — either with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eMedium Foam Pad\u003c\/a\u003e and an abrasive polish or, in the case of severe oxidation, with the Hard Foam Pad or Lambswool Pad. The Soft Foam Pad then takes over as the last stage and removes the micro-marks from the previous treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother often underestimated application area: preparation for ceramic coatings. Before applying a coating sealant, the paint must be absolutely blemish-free — no holograms, no swirls. With the Soft Foam Pad and an IPA-compatible finish polish, a final surface can be achieved on which the ceramic layer adheres precisely and can develop its full protective effect. This preparatory finishing pass is standard in professional coating operations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpecial caution is required for fresh repaints. Fresh paint is not yet fully cured in the first few weeks and reacts more sensitively to heat and mechanical pressure. The Soft Foam Pad is the safest choice here because it generates the least energy input — nevertheless, machine polishing should be avoided entirely for repaints less than 30 days old.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSoft Foam Pad in Comparison — When Which Pad is the Right Choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE pad system is consistently staggered by cutting performance and works together with suitable polishes. The Soft Foam Pad is at the lower end of the cutting performance curve — in combination with the Medium Foam Pad and the Hard Foam Pad, a complete correction system results that offers a suitable combination for almost every paint condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eMedium Foam Pad\u003c\/a\u003e is the all-rounder for medium corrections: it reliably removes wash marks, light swirls, and past polishing marks, but still leaves isolated fine marks on dark paints, which are then removed with the soft pad. The combination of medium followed by soft is the most efficient solution for the majority of all professional vehicle detailing — two steps instead of three, and yet a perfect result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Hard Foam Pad is designed for heavy-cut applications — oxidation, deep wet sanding, heavily weathered paints. It works with higher pressure on a smaller effective contact surface and thus generates significantly more cutting performance. It is contraindicated on fresh or delicate paints. If you have worked with the Hard Foam Pad, you usually have to switch to the Soft Foam Pad via the Medium Foam Pad as an intermediate stage to achieve a completely hologram-free result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-lammwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eLambswool Pad\u003c\/a\u003e represents a category of its own: lambswool fibers, due to their natural structure, generate very high cutting performance that differs from that of a hard foam pad. They work more aggressively, but also hotter — and typically leave more polishing marks that then need to be polished out with the Soft Foam Pad. The Lambswool Pad is ideal for extreme corrections and professionals who want to save time; the Soft Foam Pad is its ideal finishing partner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn comparison with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-weich-125-polierpad\"\u003eSoft Orbital Pad 125\u003c\/a\u003e — another soft pad in the PROFILINE system — there is a relevant difference: the Soft Orbital Pad 125 is designed for the 125 mm diameter and optimized for specific orbital machine backing plates. The Soft Foam Pad is available in 75 mm and 160 mm sizes, thus covering the two extremes of the pad spectrum: precision work on small areas and fast work on large bodywork surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the Soft Foam Pad — For Which Users and Workflows It Is Worth It\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Soft Foam Pad is worthwhile for anyone who wants to perform machine polishing at a professional quality level — regardless of whether they work commercially or as a dedicated hobby detailer. Beginners benefit from the fact that the soft pad minimizes the risk of errors: those who work with too much pressure or too high a speed will cause damage significantly less often with the Soft Foam Pad than with a more aggressive pad. This also makes it the first pad for anyone just starting to learn machine polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eProfessional detailers appreciate the Soft Foam Pad as the last step in any multi-stage workflow. Whether after a CutMax pass with the Hard Foam Pad, after a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003ePerfectFinish Polish\u003c\/a\u003e on a medium stage, or as a final quality assurance before sealing — the soft pad is the one that defines the final result. No other pad in the SONAX PROFILINE system creates such a uniformly smooth, hologram-free surface in a single step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe size selection should be based on the existing polishing machine. The 75 mm variant is ideal for spot corrections and tight areas — it fits smaller orbital backing plates and allows precise work in places where a 160 mm pad cannot be controlled. The 160 mm variant is the surface worker: bonnet, roof, sides — here it demonstrates its productivity strength. In a well-equipped workshop, both sizes are available and are used specifically depending on the task.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a direct complement, the high-quality finish polishes from the SONAX PROFILINE range are recommended. The EX \"04-06\" High-Gloss Polish is the classic combination recommendation: low to no cutting performance, maximum high gloss, and hologram obsession. For paint surfaces that still show slight fine marks after a hard-cut treatment, the NP \"03-06\" High-Gloss Polish is the more precise choice — it offers a bit more cutting performance and more reliably works out the remaining marks from the pretreatment. Both polishes are designed for the Soft Foam Pad and deliver the best results when used together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you take care of your Soft Foam Pad, it will last a long time. A carefully cleaned and air-dried pad retains its pore structure over many uses — and thus also its characteristic ability to release polish evenly and dissipate heat in a controlled manner. Professionals clean their pads immediately after each vehicle, store them flat in a closed container, and separate used from new pads to avoid cross-contamination with polish residues. These simple measures double the effective lifespan and ensure consistent polishing results over the entire period.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø75 mm","offer_id":57345170178383,"sku":"D1-SNX-4926000","price":24.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø160 mm","offer_id":57345170211151,"sku":"D1-SNX-4932410","price":10.05,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-weich_160-mm.png?v=1774736676"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-hart-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHard cutting power on the DA polisher — SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat's the difference between an ExzenterPad hart and a SchaumPad hart? The pro ExzenterPad in the hard build is a polishing foam pad tuned specifically for the oscillating motion of dual-action orbital polishers — for maximum cut with safe, controlled handling and no risk of overheating.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you polish on a dual-action orbital, the pad is what decides the result: a pad that's too soft loses cut on the fast orbital throw; a pad with the wrong return hardness springs the product contact away and leaves an uneven cut pattern. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart\u003c\/strong\u003e is built with a foam consistency matched to the kinematics of orbital polishers: at the typical throw frequency of DA machines (4–12 mm orbital throw) the cell structure of the foam works in a way that transfers maximum cutting energy onto the paint. Available in Ø125 mm and Ø150 mm — single, or in the pro set with 15 or 10 pieces for continuous use in detailing shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHard cell structure for maximum cut transfer on the DA orbital.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ExzenterPad hart uses a dense, closed-cell foam structure that doesn't spring away under the orbital motion but turns the contact pressure straight into cut. Where softer pads bleed off energy through compression, the hard ExzenterPad keeps the force in the contact zone — that gives you a repeatable, even cut across the whole pad face, even on curved radii and slightly domed panels.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOrbital-optimised geometry for safe work without overheating.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike rotary polishers, orbital machines don't build continuous friction heat on one rotational track — the random orbital throw spreads the heat over a larger area. The ExzenterPad hart leans on that DA trait: even on fresh or thin clear coat you can work aggressively with the hard pad, because the machine technology keeps the overheating risk in check. That makes the ExzenterPad hart the ideal entry pad for detailers moving from rotary to orbital work.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo sizes and pro sets for cost-effective shop use.\u003c\/strong\u003e Ø125 mm for standard DA orbitals, Ø150 mm for big orbitals with a wide plate. For shops that polish every day, the 15-pack (Ø125 mm) and the 10-pack (Ø150 mm) are the economical choice: running several pads means fewer stops for cleaning, and the price per pad in set format is clearly cheaper than buying singles.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Dampen the ExzenterPad hart briefly before the first use — dry foam soaks up the first drops of polish instead of laying them down on the paint. A splash of water or a damp cloth on the work surface is enough. On the first pass always start at the lowest speed (setting 1–2) to work the polish in, then bring it up to working speed. After 2–3 panels, clean the pad with a pad spinner or a pad washer — a saturated pad cuts a lot less. For the best results, pair the ExzenterPad hart with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound\u003c\/a\u003e — in the PROFILINE system this combo is dialled in for heavy-cut jobs on DA orbitals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eExzenterPad hart foam structure — cell hardness, rebound and cut mechanics\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cut of a polishing pad on the orbital comes down to three factors: foam hardness (compression modulus), rebound speed (how fast the foam springs back after compression) and surface contact area (how large the effectively polishing area is). The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for high-performance cut on the DA orbital across all three: foam hardness sits at the top end of the PROFILINE pad line-up, rebound speed is matched to the typical orbital throw frequencies (about 3,400–6,800 strokes\/min), and the pad geometry keeps maximum surface contact even on slightly domed surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne technical point that gets underrated day-to-day: pads that are too hard can give the orbital trouble on very fresh or very thin clear coat — the lack of conformity to the dips and micro-texture of the paint leads to an uneven cut pattern. So the ExzenterPad hart isn't the hardest pad imaginable but a carefully picked middle ground between maximum cutting energy and enough give. It's optimised for paint with normal to high film thickness — from roughly 80 µm clear coat up. On very thin paint (under 60 µm) or very fresh new paint, start with the ExzenterPad medium for testing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cell structure of the foam is closed, which has two practical upshots: first, the pad soaks up polish less aggressively than open-cell foams — that means less polish lost in the pad material and more product at the paint surface. Second, the pad is easier to clean after use, because the polish mostly sits on the surface and doesn't work deep into the cell matrix. Regularly washed foam pads keep their original cut over many jobs — an economic edge over wool pads, which lose cut faster after heavy use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe back of the ExzenterPad hart has a hook-and-loop backing (Velcro) that fits straight onto standard backing plates with a hook\u0026amp;loop face. The bond is built for the high centrifugal forces of orbital motors — no shifting or loosening of the pad in use, not even at higher speeds. The hook-and-loop layer is vulcanised to the foam, not just glued on — that stops delamination after repeated taking off and putting on.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFor pad care: after use, wash the ExzenterPad hart out with lukewarm water and a mild cleaner, squeeze it gently (never wring) and let it dry flat. Foam pads shouldn't go in the washing machine — the mechanical stress on the spin cycle wrecks the cell structure and permanently kills the return hardness. Hand-washing takes 2 minutes and keeps the pad properties fully intact over dozens of jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the ExzenterPad hart — polish combination, machine speed and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad hart is made for use with heavy-cut compounds — in the PROFILINE system, paired with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound\u003c\/a\u003e or the PROFILINE EX \"05-05\" cutting compound. This combo is built for cars with sanding marks from sandpaper up to P1000, heavy holograms from automatic car washes, and medium to deep oxidation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe optimal machine speed for the ExzenterPad hart sits, depending on the machine, at a medium to high setting (setting 4–6 on a typical 5-step orbital). On a geared orbital (e.g. SONAX or Rupes BigFoot) that's about 3,800–4,500 rpm. Too low and the hard pad doesn't cut efficiently — the foam structure needs enough kinetic energy to work the clear coat. Too high on small, curved areas (bumper edges, A-pillar transition) and you risk the pad catching edges and pulling off too much locally.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolish dosing: with the ExzenterPad hart, the classic 5-dot pattern works well (one blob of polish in the middle and four near the edges). The amount per panel (about 50×50 cm) is 3–5 pea-sized dots, depending on the cut strength of the polish. Before you switch the machine on, spread the polish over the area with the pad (power off) to avoid splatter. Then switch on at setting 1–2 until the polish is worked in, and bring it up to working speed. One pass is 2–3 overlapping runs over the same panel segment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing a panel, give the pad a quick check: if the foam is saturated and discoloured (dark, greasy), you need a cleaning step before you go at the next panel. A saturated pad only smears polish as a film with no real cut — cleaning or swapping the pad is then more efficient than carrying on. With a pad spinner you can clean a foam pad enough in about 15 seconds to keep working panels; a full wash happens at the end of the workday.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the ExzenterPad hart works — paint defects, vehicle types and polishing stages\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad hart is the workhorse for the heavy-cut stage of a multi-step car detail. Typical scenarios: used cars with holograms and wash marks from years of car-wash use, new cars with transport paint damage (fine sanding marks from final inspection), cars after a P1200 sanding step for deep scratch removal, plus heavily matted or oxidised paint on used cars that went years without a polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn new cars, be careful: fresh OEM clear coats aren't fully cured in the first 30–90 days after painting and react more sensitively to mechanical stress. On new cars under 3 months, use the ExzenterPad hart only with lighter heavy-cut compounds (not the strongest formula) and at reduced speed. Once cured, the paint is far more resilient and takes full heavy-cut treatment without risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the body, the ExzenterPad hart suits all the large panels — bonnet, roof, wings and doors. For tight edge work at the bumper transition, on door shut lines and around window rubbers, a smaller pad (Ø80 mm, if available) or working by hand with polish and a cloth is the better fit. The Ø125 mm pad is the all-rounder; the Ø150 mm pad is for maximum area throughput on wide surfaces like the bonnet and roof — with the bigger pad you're about 20–30 % faster per car at comparable cut quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a professional detailing shop the ExzenterPad hart is usually used for the first cutting pass, followed by an ExzenterPad medium with a medium polish for the refining stage and an \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-weich-125-polierpad\"\u003eExzenterPad weich\u003c\/a\u003e with a finishing polish for the final gloss. This three-stage system delivers repeatable results: step one clears all the defects, step two removes the leftover marks from step one, and step three gets the final shine. Try to do all three steps with a single pad and you compromise either the cut or the finish quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eExzenterPad hart compared — DA polishing pad vs. SchaumPad vs. ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common question when building a PROFILINE pad line-up is the difference between the ExzenterPad and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad hart\u003c\/a\u003e: both are hard foam pads for heavy-cut work, but they're optimised in geometry and foam formula for different machine types. The SchaumPad hart is built for rotary polishers — it works with the even rotary motion and transfers that energy optimally into cut. The ExzenterPad hart is built for DA orbitals — the foam structure is laid out for the random orbital throw, which puts completely different demands on compression behaviour and return hardness. Run an ExzenterPad hart on a rotary and you'll usually notice reduced cut — and the other way round. The pads aren't fully interchangeable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe comparison between the ExzenterPad hart and the ExzenterPad medium comes down to how much cut you need: the ExzenterPad medium gives clearly less cut, but it also builds less heat and leaves finer marks in the paint. For cars with light to medium holograms (normal wear without deep scratches) the medium pad is enough and gentler. For heavily damaged paint, or when you need to move fast through serious defects, the ExzenterPad hart is the right tool. As a rule of thumb: if a panel still shows visible scratches after a full pass with the ExzenterPad medium and a heavy-cut compound, the ExzenterPad hart is the right call for the next detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother relevant comparison is the ExzenterPad hart vs. the HybridWollPad: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-hybridwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad\u003c\/a\u003e gives clearly more cut on the rotary than the ExzenterPad hart on the DA orbital. For heavy paint defects that even the ExzenterPad hart and CutMax can't fully clear, the HybridWollPad on the rotary is the stronger option. This choice between orbital + ExzenterPad hart and rotary + HybridWollPad depends on the specific defect picture and the machine set-up of your shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart — size choice, set formats and shop use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that work exclusively with DA orbitals, the ExzenterPad hart is the primary heavy-cut pad. The size recommendation: Ø125 mm for shops with a standard-format orbital, Ø150 mm for shops betting on efficiency over large areas with a 150 mm plate machine. Shops with both machine sizes ideally keep both pad sizes in stock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 15-pack in Ø125 mm format is made for professional detailing shops polishing several cars a day. In an average shop with 3–5 cars a day you'll need 6–10 pads per workday (2 each per car in rotation), so a set stock covers the week. With 15 pads on hand you can run several pads in rotation through a long workday and clean them together in the evening — no productivity loss from waiting on single-pad cleaning. The 10-pack in Ø150 mm format follows the same logic for the bigger format. Against buying singles, the set format saves a fair bit per pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe lifespan of an ExzenterPad hart depends on how well you look after it: regularly washed pads last 50–100 cars before the foam structure gives up. The tell for a worn pad: it presses all the way through under normal finger pressure (no rebound left), or the surface shows cracks and signs of coming apart. A worn pad should be replaced right away — it drops dramatically in cut and can leave uneven cut marks on freshly painted surfaces. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 keeps the ExzenterPad hart in both sizes and both set formats permanently in the range.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø125 mm – 1 piece","offer_id":57345291288911,"sku":"D1-SNX-4923410","price":16.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø125 mm – 15 pieces","offer_id":57345291321679,"sku":"D1-SNX-4923000","price":109.48,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø150 mm – 1 piece","offer_id":57345291354447,"sku":"D1-SNX-4924410","price":18.21,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø150 mm – 10 pieces","offer_id":57345291387215,"sku":"D1-SNX-4924000","price":83.3,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-hart_125-mm--1-stueck.png?v=1774736550"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-medium-polierpad","title":"SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMedium cut, full control — the SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium in real use\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets a medium-cut polishing pad apart from a soft or hard one? A medium-cut pad — like the ExzenterPad medium — corrects light to moderate paint defects on DA polishers without overdoing the cut, and shifts heat away nicely.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've ever polished with the wrong pad, you know how it ends: either you cut too much and the paint overheats, or there isn't enough bite and the scratches stay put. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly the zone where most correction happens — light swirls, fine scratches, moderate oxidation and holograms that finishing pads can no longer touch, but that don't need an aggressive cutting pad either. The medium-cut foam profile gives you the room to correct efficiently without losing your grip on how much you're removing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium-cut foam profile for precise paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e The open-pore foam structure of the ExzenterPad medium builds enough cut with the right polish to clear swirls, holograms and fine scratches. The removal stays controllable — you correct exactly where you want without over-stressing the paint surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEfficient heat shedding through open-cell foam.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polishing on DA orbitals generates friction heat, and closed-pore pads trap it, which can lead to heat spots or paint damage. The open-cell foam of the ExzenterPad medium draws heat away evenly and protects sensitive clear coats.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVersatile size choice for different working areas.\u003c\/strong\u003e With Ø125 mm for precise work in tight spots and Ø150 mm for large panels, the ExzenterPad medium gives you the flexibility a pro day calls for. Both sizes fit standard hook-and-loop backing plates.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before the first run, drop 3–4 pea-sized blobs of polish onto the pad and spread them across a panel at low speed before you start correcting — what we call \"priming\" the pad. A fresh PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium drinks up more polish on the first pass; only on the second pass does it show its full cutting power. After every panel, blow the pad out with a pad brush or a pad cleaner to clear polish residue — that stretches the pad's life by a lot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOpen-cell foam and medium cut — how the ExzenterPad medium works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pad you pick decides how much time and how many passes a correction takes. Too soft a pad doesn't build enough pressure to pull scratches out of the clear coat; too hard a pad leaves a faint hologram pattern behind that you then have to chase off with a finishing pad in another pass. Understanding pad mechanics saves you real time and abrasive day-to-day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA raw foam blank and a finished pad are not the same thing. What looks at first glance like a simple piece of foam is the result of a deliberate material choice: pore size, foam hardness and cell structure together decide how much abrasive the pad takes up, how it releases it, and how fast it heats up. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/strong\u003e uses an open-cell polyurethane foam of medium hardness. The open cell build means polish spreads evenly through the pad and meters out onto the paint — a steady supply that stops the pad running dry and keeps the abrasive working consistently.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA pad's cut comes from how foam hardness, surface texture and pore structure play together. Soft pads compress a lot, have more contact with the paint but less pressure per point — ideal for finishing. Hard pads barely compress, build high local pressure and therefore more cut. The medium pad sits in between: it compresses in a controlled way, builds pressure steadily, and still spreads polish evenly. In practice that means you can clear swirls and holograms in one or two passes with the ExzenterPad medium without necessarily needing a separate finishing pass afterwards — as long as you match the right polish to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eChoosing between Ø125 and Ø150 mm depends on the working area and the machine. Ø125 mm is the standard size for DA orbitals with a 5 mm throw and works on every body section. Ø150 mm lets you cover more ground on large, flat panels like the bonnet or roof, but it needs a machine with the power headroom to back it. If you run both sizes, you can switch deliberately between detail work and large-area polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe hook-and-loop backing on the pad is made for standard backing plates. The Velcro quality on the PROFILINE line holds reliably even through several hours of continuous use — the pad sits tight, doesn't spin out, and won't peel off on its own even on a damp, greasy surface. With cheaper pads that's one of the most common headaches day-to-day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a DA polishing pad right — step by step with the ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore your first polishing pass, a quick paint check pays off. Heavily soiled paint should be decontaminated before polishing — an iron remover binds fallout, and a clay bar product pulls off bonded contamination that would otherwise act as grinding grit during polishing. On clean, decontaminated paint the ExzenterPad medium works more efficiently: the abrasive particles in the polish bite straight into the clear coat instead of burning energy loosening surface dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDA orbitals work with a combined rotation-and-orbital motion — that makes them more forgiving than rotaries and easier to get into for beginners, but you still need the right technique. Your speed setting drives how much cut the ExzenterPad medium actually develops. For medium correction work, a speed between 4,000 and 5,500 revolutions per minute is the sweet spot. Lower speeds cut heat build-up but give less bite; higher speeds speed up the correction but raise the risk of heat spots on repeated overlaps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlways pick a test panel first — ideally a low-key spot on the car, like the lower door area or a less exposed corner of the roof. Lay the polish straight onto the pad, not onto the paint. Start at low speed and spread the polish across the panel without leaning in, then bring the speed up for the actual correction pass. Overlapping passes of 30–40 % give an even result without streaks. Two to three passes are usually enough for moderate swirls; deeper scratches call for extra passes or a switch to the ExzenterPad hart.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the pass, the residue pattern of the polish becomes your indicator: when the abrasive film has broken down evenly and is almost fully worked in, the pad has done its job. Clumpy or uneven residue points to too much polish or too low a speed. The PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium cleans up after use with warm water and pad wash, and is reusable once dry. Pros recommend sorting pads by polish type and never switching between abrasive and finishing products on the same pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting paint defects — when the ExzenterPad medium is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePaint care isn't only about looks — it's about holding value. A car with corrected, sealed paint scores measurably better at lease return or resale than one with untouched wear marks. Polishing with a DA orbital and the ExzenterPad medium is, for high-mileage drivers and fleets, an investment that pays back at the next valuation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad medium is the all-rounder in the polishing-pad line-up — it covers the zone you reach for most often in day-to-day detailing. Cars with normal wear that get washed regularly build up a fine swirl pattern over months, picked up from automatic washes, microfibre towels or wash sponges carrying grit. That exact surface depth — usually 1 to 3 microns — is the target zone of the ExzenterPad medium. It removes enough to drop below the scratch depth without cutting into deeper layers of paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMore heavily damaged paint with deep scratches, oxidation damage or baked-in water spots that don't bridge under the fingernail test need the ExzenterPad hart or a rotary pass. An honest read before you start polishing saves time: if you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, it sits in the primer or at the edge of the clear coat — the ExzenterPad medium won't fully clear it. As a rule of thumb: what the nail glides over without catching, the medium pad can correct.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature plays a part too: on cold paint below 10 °C the foam stiffens up — the pad compresses less and the contact pressure climbs. On hot summer days outdoors, on the other hand, the pad goes softer and cuts more. Factor those variables into your first test panel so you can read the result before you polish whole panels.\u003cbr\u003e\nOn freshly painted cars, new vehicles with fine transport scratches, or after a chemical decon with a clay bar product, the ExzenterPad medium is your first choice for paint correction too. It gives the paint enough cut for a visible improvement without the risk of grinding through fresh paint that hasn't fully cured. After correcting with the ExzenterPad medium, a closing finishing pass with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-weich-125-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich\u003c\/a\u003e is worth it, to clear the last micro-scratches from the polishing pass and leave the paint mirror-clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eExzenterPad medium vs hart vs SchaumPad — which pad when?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice in practice isn't a matter of taste, it's a matter of paint condition and the result you're after. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/strong\u003e holds the middle: more cut than a finishing pad, more mercy than a cutting pad. The ExzenterPad hart suits pronounced scratches, oxidation and heavy swirls — its denser foam core builds enough pressure with a high-abrasive polish for deep material removal. The downside: the finishing work afterwards is heavier, because the hard pad leaves finer holograms behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart\u003c\/a\u003e, the medium pad can fold the first correction pass straight into finishing in a two-stage workflow — when the polish matches the pad's cut. That saves time and is plenty for cars in normal condition. If you work with a one-step polish like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP \"03-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e, the ExzenterPad medium is the ideal carrier foam: the NP \"03-06\" develops its cut and its finishing properties best on medium-cut pads and leaves a high gloss after a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the SchaumPads from the PROFILINE line, the ExzenterPad stands apart through its specific tuning for DA machines. SchaumPads can in principle be run on orbitals too, but their material spec is built around rotary use. The ExzenterPad medium is dialled in with a DA orbital — the rebound character of the foam matches the machine's motion frequency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho it's for, combinations and buying advice for the ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe medium polishing pad from the PROFILINE line is built for professional detailers who work regularly with DA orbitals and need a dependable correction pad for the everyday bulk of cars. For detailing beginners with a DA machine it's the right starter pad too, because it's more forgiving than a hard cutting pad. The risk of grinding through the paint with the wrong technique is clearly lower with the medium pad than with an aggressive cutting pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you work on different vehicle types regularly, you'll benefit from a structured pad system. Dark cars and clear coats with thin film thickness call for more of a feel — here the ExzenterPad medium is often the safe bet, because it keeps the removal controllable. On light colours and paint with good film thickness, a hard pad on the first pass can make sense too, to clear deep scratches faster. A careful film-thickness check with a paint depth gauge before polishing is standard at a professional level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional use, the pack options of 15 pieces (Ø125 mm) or 10 pieces (Ø150 mm) are worth it. Detailers polishing several cars a day change the pad at the latest after two or three cars — a fresh pad gives consistently better results than a saturated one. With the 15-piece set you have enough pads for a working day without washing in between. That saves not just time but polish too, because a fresh pad takes up the abrasive more efficiently and releases it more evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor single users with the odd polishing job, the single pack is the right pick: cared for well and cleaned after every use, a PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium lasts many jobs. The combo of ExzenterPad medium for the correction pass and ExzenterPad weich for the closing finishing pass is the standard two-stage workflow Detailing1 recommends for normal everyday cars. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks the PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium permanently in all sizes and pack quantities. For shops with high polishing volume, combined pad sets are worth a look too: a stock of medium and soft pads covers the whole two-stage workflow without having to reorder mid-job. On request, Detailing1 gives advice on pad rotation strategy for different vehicle classes and polish types.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø125 mm – 1 piece","offer_id":57345292337487,"sku":"D1-SNX-4986000","price":16.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø125 mm – 15 pieces","offer_id":57345292370255,"sku":"D1-SNX-4987000","price":109.48,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø150 mm – 1 piece","offer_id":57345292403023,"sku":"D1-SNX-4986410","price":18.21,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø150 mm – 10 pieces","offer_id":57345292435791,"sku":"D1-SNX-4987410","price":83.3,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-medium_125-mm--1-stueck.png?v=1774736564"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1.nl\/en\/collections\/sonax-polieren.oembed?page=3","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}